


H'-'-i >, 



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THE 



American Garment Cutter 



THIRD EDITION 



^A complete, practical up-to-date 
treatise on the Cutting of 

MEN'S GARMENTS 

according to the most approved 
method ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ 






AMERICAN FASHION COMPANY 

PUBLISHERS 

NEW YORK LONDON PARIS BERLIN VIENNA 






International Copyright, 1914 



Entered According to Act of Congress in the Year 1914 

BY 

American Fashion Company 
In the Office of the Librarian at Washington, D. C. 



All Rights Reserved 

Reproduction Interdite 

Vervielfaeltigung Unters Act 



/l/^ I^/^Y^ 



JCT 14 f9l4 

^CI,A380855 



INTRODUCTION 

Draper in his "Intellectual Advancement of Civilization" says: "Individual 
advancement is the model for social progress. Nowhere is the truth of this to 
be found so fully realized as in these United States, where individual advance- 
ment is marked in every avenue of life. "Excelsior" is inscribed on the banner 
of every man and woman, borne onward and forward through the rush and 
crush, through the whirlpools and fast flowing streams of life's kaleidoscopic 
changes, ever reaching higher and higher and becoming more and more and 
still more perfect in their particular sphere and in their own individual calling". 

For twenty years the author has devoted his time and study to the compila- 
tion of a book for self-instruction in the art of cutting and designing men's 
garments, so arranged that any one of average intelligence can master it with 
proper care and necessary diligence. 

The student will find the system extremely simple and entirely free from 
complication; no scale or chart of any kind is used, simply the ordinary divis- 
ioned square and inch tape measure; everything which might have a tendency to 
befog and mislead the student has been eliminated, so that every line drawn and 
applied may be easily grasped and perfectly understood. To produce a method 
of cutting where the points are based on the actual build of a man, and to be 
reproduced as nearly perfect as is possible to human ingenuity is what has been 
sought in this work. The author has so far succeeded that of the many who 
have studied, either by direct instruction or by the aid of this publication, not 
one has failed to enjoy the fullest confidence of their clientage. Particularly is 
this system of value where cutting has to be done without "try-on," and at no 
time can a garment be spoiled. The perfect points being the fundamental object 
of this method. 



'1 : 



PREFACE 



In placing" this work before the Cutting" Fraternity, we feel confident that 
we have placed before them somelhing that is useful and practical. Unlike any 
other work of its kind, its construction is simple and easy to understand. It has 
been our aim to eliminate all discussion of an anatomical nature, for we do not 
pretend to teach anatomy, nor do we try to convince the student of something 
we are not convinced of ourselves. We do claim that our work is absolutely 
practical, and correct, its measures are simple, and applied on the pattern exactly 
as taken, they will cover any and all points that have heretofore confused the 
cutter. There will be no need for the cutter to mark on the book "R. B." for 
round back or "O. E." for over erect or any other sign by which to show the 
shape of his customer, for his measure.nents will show all such points. We 
feel certain that any cutter following the instruction of the AMERICAN GAR- 
MENT Cutter will be satisfied with the results obtained. 

The Author 

S. REGAL. 



PREFACE TO THIRD EDITION 

'l"he pul)licali(jn ni the first and second editions of this work marked an era in 
tlie history of cutting, as it was the introduction of a Self-Instructor that en- 
abled the student to intelligently understand a system that was Simple, Concise 
and Practical. 

The many systems that were heretofore published, advanced theories and 
expounded systems that proved to be so intricate and ambiguous they left the 
student floundering in uncertainty, and necessitated either a course of personal 
instruction, or a return to his former system that had proved unsatisfactory. 

The great success that attended the sale of the first and second editions 
of this work is evidenced by that fact that many orders have been held in abey- 
ance pending the publication of this edition, the first and second issues having 
been entirely sold out many months ago. 

That the Author has succeeded in producing a work fulfilling all the re- 
quirements of a Self-Instructor is attested to by the result that not a single 
request for an explanation of any point has been received since the first and 
second issues were presented to the public. 

Whilst the fundamental principles of the system taught in the previous 
editions have been retained, yet some changes have been made that practical 
experience has found to be beneficial, and many diagrams of garments added 
that make this the most complete work on Garment Cutting ever published. 

Whether it be a Practical Cutter or Tailor, or one totally unacquainted 
with the art of Cutting, the Author is convinced that any person of average 
intelligence can become a master of the art through the medium of this publi- 
cation. 

The system as taught does not require changing when the vagaries of 
Fashion decree a different style, but can be used for all time, and embrace 
within its scope every outer garment worn by man. 

The claims made for this work are fully borne out by the success attained 
by those who studied the first and second editions, and we know that it will 
meet- with the same favor as its predecessor, and be of invaluable use to those 
who purchase it. 

The Author, 

S. REGAL. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



THE MEASURING OF THE HUMAN BODY. 

The fact that in order to perfectly fit the human body perfect measurements are required, 
cannot be too often urged upon the cutter, and not only that, but it requires much tact on 
the part of the cutter to get his customer to forget that he is being measured. A fact well 
known among cutters is, that ninety-nine out of one hundred men will pose, unconsciously 
perhaps, while being measured. It is common to see a man standing erect, with shoulders 
thrown back and chest expanded, and if you were to ask him to stand natural, he would be 
indignant and answer, "why of course this is my natural position," but if after the garment is 
completed, he stoops forward, his chest sunken in, his back rounded, it will then be necessary 
for the cutter to either make a big alteration era new garment; so it will readily be seen that 
the cutter who can make his customer forget that he is being measured, has the best chance 
of success. 

If my opinion was asked as to whether actual measurements or proportions were the 
safest method to cut by, my answer would be actual measurements by all means, providing 
you have the ability to take an accurate measurement, otherwise use proportions. Propor- 
tions, therefore, would be my second choice, and judging by the various measuring devices 
that are being studied and invented, it would seem as if a great number of cutters are realiz- 
ing that the proper measurements of the body is one of the greatest, if not the greatest, factor 
in producing that which the cutter is aiming to produce. But so far as I can see, no instru- 
ment has yet been devised that can really give a good measurement, /. c, an instrument which 
the young student, as well as the practical cutter, can handle with an equal degree of confi- 
dence and certainty. 

From my experience, I find that the only correct line needed for attitude is the horizontal 
line, this being the breast line. If such a line could be definitely located, the difficulty in meas- 
urements would be done away with. I therefore advise using the floor level for the breast 
line, as is shown in this book, and even if the breast line is taken one-quarter or one-half inch 
lower than the actual depth the armscye calls for, or if taken that much higher than it should 
be, then it will still leave the front and back lengths from the floor level the same. Conse- 
quently, if the scye depth is one-half inch too deep, so is the front shoulder length, and if too 
high, so is the front shoulder length. The balance, therefore must be the same. 

The next important measurement is the waist indentation. We all know that the greater 
the waist hollow, the more back length we need, and that length can only be had by hollow- 
ing the backpart at the waist the proper amount to correspond with the indentation : this 
will adjust the lengths of the backpart from the breast line down, the same as the scye depth 
and strap will adjust it from the scye depth up. 

HOW TO MEASURE. 

Before measuring, it is well to see that the sides of the Vest are not too loose; if neces- 
sary, pin up both sides of the Vest, but see that the center seam of the back is in the right 
place. 

Use the ordinary division square. Place square under the arm with the long end down 
and parallel with the body. (See Fig. 1). The short end to be close, but not tight, under the 
arm ; make a chalk mark on top of it in front. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 




FIGURE 1. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



HOW TO MEASURE (Continued) 

Now place the short end of the square under the arm witli the long end upwartl (see Fig. 
2), still keeping the inner edge of it close, but not tight, at the front scye ; mark at the outer 
edge of it across the first line, so that it leaves a cross mark at the front scye. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 




FIGURE 2. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



HOW TO MEASURE (Continued) 

The cross mark shown on the front on Figure 3 shows where tlie hne of scye depth and 
blade line cross. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



11 




V 



FIGURE 3. 



12 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



HOW TO MEASURE (Continued) 

After tibtaiiiing this point, place the stjuare and yardstick tuyetlier (Fig. 1) and measure 
the distance frc^m that square line down to the floor as shown. 

After the length is obtained, proceed as per -Fig. 5. Mark the same distance from 
the ground U]) on the backpart on each side. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



13 





FIGURE 4. 



FIGURE 5. 



14 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



HOW TO MEASURE (Continued) 

Place the square across the two hues and mark mi the center seam. (Fig. 6). Now place 
tlie tape string around the liollow part of the waist and mark the waist length at C. do 
down from C to 1) six inches for the liip measure. It is easilv imdcrstood that no matter 
where tlie liip may l)e, so Irmg as you go down the same ihstance for the draft as the 
measure, you must be right. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



15 




FIGURE C. 



16 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



HOW TO MEASURE (Continued) 

(Fig. 7). Now place the yardstick against the liack and seat, and place the square to the 
hollow of the waist to see how much indentatioii there is between the waist hollow and the 
stick. Now, the average indentation at that place is IJ/2 inches, but thi,s may be more or less. 
We shall explain later on how this measurement is used. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



17 




FIGURE 



18 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



HOW TO MEASURE (Continued) 

(Fig. 8). Now beginning at the collar button, proceed to measure as follows: first from 
the socket bone or collar button to the scye depth ; on to the waist length and full length. 
It is not necessary to call ofif the seat length for the simple reason that the seat length is 
always inches below the waist. 



(Fig. 9). Now take the strap measure from the collar Initton down to the front mark. 



(Fig. 10). The overshoulder measure from the scye depth at the center of back, across 
the shoulder to the front cross mark. 



(Fig. llj. The blade measure, from the front cross line under the arm and over the blade 
to the center seam of the backpart as illustrated. The breast measure, which should be taken 
naturally, neither too loose nor too tight, should be taken o\er the largest part of the blade. 
Then take the waist and seat measure. In taking the seat measure, we always make our ad- 
ditions to the measurements in the following manner: let us assume that the man to be 
measured has two hip pockets in his trousers. If at the time of taking the measure, there 
should lie nothing in either pocket, we add 1 inch to the measurements; should tiie one pocket 
be full and the other one empty, we give J^ inch; should both pockets be reasonai)ly full, 
we take the measurements easy and call it net. 

THE VEST. 

If measured for a suit, all that is needed is the opening and full length measure, (itlier- 
wise take the same measurements as for the coat. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



19 







20 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



HOW TO MEASURE (Continued) 
TROUSERS. 

Measure the outside seam from tlie liip l)one to the top cif liecl and reduce |}-'| inch. 

For the inseam, iia\e the truusers well drawn up and measure from the crotch tn the top 
of heel and reduce }-4 inch ; then measure the waist, hip, seat, thigh, knee and bottom. 

In measuring the trouser length, it must be remembered that if the trousers were made 
to come down to the top of heel they would be entirely too long for wear, but if made '4 inch 
abr)ve the heel it will gi\'e them the right length fur mcdiimi widths. If the trouser legs are 
to be \'ery narrow, the reduction may be 1 inch.' \ery wide trousers may be reduced )/. inch 
but trousers with a permanent turn-up should iie m;idc fmni I'/] to 2 indies shorter than the 
acturd measurements. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



21 



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' "I" ' I 'T 




J i l l ■ ■ m il l ' m * '* 1 1<» r 



.p..,,...,.,rTrr,T 




FIGURE U>. 



22 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 

THE SQUARE. 

The square used for these diagrams is a plain di\ision square, understood by most cut- 
ters, Init for the benefit of those who do not understand it, we herewith give an exphmation 
of the divisions of same. 

The long end of the square is divided into 'A, Vi, Yb, A, 1-34; the short end is divided into 
1/2, Ya, yi, 1-]*J and 1-32. Should you try to find Ys of any size, say 36, 40 or 48,. look at the 
short end of the square marked Ys, and there you will find the number you want, IS for 36, 
20 for 40, or 24 for 48. Should you want >4 of any size, look at the same short end of square 
marked >4, or if you want Vb, Vi or A, look at the long end for the mark Vz, Yb or A and you 
will find it. 

In drawing for square lines, be sure that you hold your square on the one line lirndy, 
while drawing the right angle, for one line off will spoil the whole draft. 



DIAGRAM 1. 

We will now proceed with the tirst lesson which is the grciundwork. The measure- 
ments for this diagram are as follows : 

Indentation IK' '"t^lies 

Scye depth 9 inches 

Waist length I63X inches 

Full length 30 inches or whatever it might be 

Strap 12 inches 

Overshoulder 17 inches 

Blade 12><^ inches 

Breast 36 inches 

Waist 32 inches 

Hip 38 inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus Ya inch; to C is natural waist length; C to D is 
(! inches always; A to E is full length; F is halfway between A and B ; G is halfway be- 
tween A and F; square out from G, B, C, D and E. 

From C to 2 is one-half the indentation, in this case J4 iii^~'i ; from E to 22 is one-half the 
distance of C to 2, in this case ^ inch. This is for body fitting coats. If the coat is to be 
loose, make the distance from E to 22 the same as C to 2, but if the coat is to be a full box 
coat, then draw a line from F through 2 down to the bottom. Draw a line from F to 2 and 
from 3 to 22 and shape the center seam ; this locates point 1. 

From I to M is one-half full breast; H to I is 1^ inches; I to J is -^ inch ; K is halfway 
between 1 and H; from K to L is 3^/2 inches always; square down from L; this line drawn 
down from L is used as the waist division and never changes ; now apply the blade measure 
from 1 to L which is \2Y2 inches and make no additions to it, because in taking the measure 
we have made a mark in front of the square which gives us the necessary addition; square 
up from L. 

Now let it be understood that the blade measure does not always come even with the line 
squared down from L, as the increase or decrease of the blade measure may move the line 
either forwards or backwards from that point. This will be more fully explained as we 
proceed with our diagrams. 

Point M is J/4 of the blade measure, which is halfway between 1 and L; from M to N 
is 1 Ya inches ; square up from N ; this locates O ; point 4 is halfway between M and N, 
but this may be moved forwards to N or further backwards in accordance with the style 
coat desired. If the back is to be very shapely, we can move point 4 back as far as point 
M or if the back is to be straight, we may move it forwards to N. 

From 22 to 7 is the same distance as from 1 to 4 ; draw a line from 4 to 7 ; from N up 
to P is A breast; square forwards from P; from P to X is ^ inch; from A to 8 is 6^ 
inches; from 8 to 9 is 1^ inches; draw a line from A to 9 ; from A to 10 is Yb breast; 
square up from 10 to locate 11; draw a line from about Ya inch below 11 to O; from Q to 
R is K indentation, in this case ^ inch ; from Q to S is K waist ; place the square to points 
R-S and square down ; this will regulate the front edgie. 

I consider the waist indentation as normal at 1^ inches; if the waist indentation 
is greater than IJ^ inches, the body is sway back. In such a case, the front edge retreats 
from the waist down and causes the side seam to swing further back. Point T is halfway 
between Q and S; point U is halfway between L and I; draw a line from T through U up. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



23 



J I 





X®f>P 

K N 4 M 

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3^H!)C 



mnm 



7 



22##E 



DIAGRAM 1. 



24 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 2 

Measure the distance frniii A to 11 which is the tup width of Ijack ; apply tliis amount 
to point L and measure up to \' the strap measure plus ^^ inch tor seams; draw a line 
from \" to U; from V to Z is yii iiH'h less than the \vi<lth of the hack shoulder. This is 
not for stretching, but the backpart is to Ije fulled in against the forepart ■}<!, inch; shape 
the shoulder from about ^g inch below the line up to \' and also the armscye as shown. 

Square forwards from \' by line T-U ; from V to W is ll, breast plus '^ inch; draw 
a rounding line from VV to J ; this line is necessary f<.)r a coat that is to Ijutlnn u\t to 
the neck; in this case, howe\er, it is only a guide for the gorge. 

Frnm \' to Y is i^ breast; W to X is >^ b:-east ; this distance may be increased or 
decreased in accordance with the prexailing style ; draw a line from Y to X and shape 
the gorge; from J to 12 is 1 inch; S to 13 is the same; square down frnm K! by line R-S ; 
this locates G; from G to 15 is 3 inches. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



25 




DIAGRAM 2. 



26 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 3 

Apply the seat measure fi\)ni 'i'-i to 3 and from 15 to 20; the additions to this seat 
have already been made in the measurements, therefore the measurements are applied net. 
From 20 back to 19 is 2 inches; scjuare up from liJ to locate 18; draw a line from 18 
through 20 down and shape the side ui the fi_>repart as sIkiwh; from 18 to 21 is the same 
distance as from 5 to 7 ; from Ki to 17 is y^, breast; shape the bottom ui forepart from 
21 to 17. 

Now if a close-htting coat is desired, proceed as follows: frnm ."-^ back t(_i 14 is 2j/^ 
inches; apply the waist measure from 5 to 2 and from II In IS; the surplus that you 
will find between the actual measure and 18 is to be taken out as an under-arm fish as 
shown. Where an under-arm fish is cut out from the forepart, lower the scye as at K one- 
half the amount that lias been cut out at the waist. This is not for chest eft'ect. It 
is merely that the side of the forepart should be held short at the waist and e\en on the 
top. 

THE COLLAR 

If a straight crease collar is desired, proceed as follows: licmi \' to 31 is I34 inches; 
this represents the collar stand; draw a line through •". ] to where the top button hole 
is placed; from 24 to 25 is I34 inches; shajie the collar stand from 25 through \' into 
the gorge ; from V to 25 is ^ inch more than the top width of back ; square up from 2.j 
to 24 ; from 24 to 2G is the width of the collar desired plus a seam; finish the collar as 
shown. On another page we will show different kinds of collars. 

To mark the pocket, proceed as follows; place the s<|uare to line R-.^ and square down ; 
from L to 27 is Vj of the sleeve length plus J/ inch but this may be changed in cases 
where the style of sack coat is extremely short or extremely long. Under these con- 
ditions, the distance may be increased or decreased to correspond with the coat style. 
Measure the distance from the bottom of the forepart up to ■.'8 and also 'JO; the jiocket 
should run parallel with the b<.ittom of the forepart. 

Make the distance from 27 to 28 about 'i breast and from "JS back to •iO the size 
pocket desired; if a ticket pocket is wanted, place the square to lines 28-20 and square 
up to 30; from 28 to 30 is o'/z inches; square forwards and backwards from 30; from 
30 to 31 is 1 inch; 31 to 32 is 3J4 inches. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



27 




'3«H!>D 



DIAGRAM .!. 



•iS AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 4 

After the backpart and Ijefore tlie fni-ei)art is cut out place tlie back shciulder seam 
111 tltc front slmuldcr a> shown on this (hagrani ami ajjply the oversiiouhler measure plus 
1 inch, from B to L; if coi'rect, reshape the gorge and also the armscye so as to carry 
the lines jjcrfectly and cut out the forepart. 



DIAGRAM 5 

Should the overshiiulder be too long, o\erlap it as from Z to Y until the proper 
measurement plus 1 inch addition is obtained and resluqje the shoulder as shown on this 
diagram. 



DIAGRAM 6 

In case an artificially high shoulder is desired, proceed as in diagram il : draw a line 
fi'om the breast line up to A, also draw a line across the shoulder as at F-G ; open the 
shoulder from F tn G say -J-^ or jA inch, allowing it to o\erlai) at the gorge. This will 
advance the shoulder point as from A to D and raise it as at E ; reshajje the shoulder, 
gorge and armscye as shown by the broken line. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



29 




DIAGRAMS I, 5, G. 



•^0 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 7 

Should one shoulder be higher than the other, always take your measurements on 
the high side and cut your pattern for that side, Init make your changes on the low side 
as shown on diagram 7. 

Let us assume that the low shoulder is 'l inch low, then [jroceed as follows: lower 
the back from 13 to 14 say y^ inch and from 11 to Vl the same; place your regular back- 
part to point 14 and mark it as per broken line from 12 to 14; now pivot your backpart 
at 12 and swing it until point 10 will strike on line H : resha])e the backpart as per broken 
line; shorten the forepart from 15 to Ki the same amount as the backpart has been low- 
ered from 13 to 14. 



DIAGRAM 8 

It often happens that the body swings o\cr to one side, in which case it appears 
that one shoulder is lower than the other and yet if l)oth shoulders were measured sepa- 
rately, the measurements on Ijoth sides would be the same. Still on the low side, the 
coat would strike against the seat and the same amount would swing off on the high side 
in which case the change should he made as shown on this diagram. 

After the forepart and backjjart ha\e been cut for the high side, spHt the backpart 
as from 1 to 2 ; overlap it from 2 to 3 the amount the one shoulder is lower than the 
other and do the same with the front part; split the front part as from 4 to 5 and over- 
lap it from 5 to G the same amount as the backpart has been o\'erlapped from 2 to 3; 
straighten the center seam of the back as shown by the l)rokcn line and lill in the side 
seam the same amount. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



31 




< 

o 

< 




< 



32 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 9 
SACK COAT FOR A FIGURE WITH A LARGE BLADE. 

Tlie nu'asiirements are the same fur this coat as described fur diagram 1, with tlic 
exception that tlie liladc measure is l.'l indies instead of 1"?'2 inches. Square dnwn and 
out from A. 

From A to P. is tlie scye depth plus y{^ inch; C is waist length; C to D is (> inches; 
A to E is full length; V is halfway between .\ and B; (1 is halfway lietween A and F; 
square out frcmi (i, B, C, I) and E. 

h'rom C to 2 is J/^ the indentatiun ; F to 3".' is '/. the distance of C to 2; draw a 
line from V to 2 and 2 to 22; this locates 1; fmm I to 11 is lA breast; Fl to I is FV^ 
inches; I to J is ^4 inch; K is halfway between 1 and H; from K to 23 is VA inches; 
square down from 2.'J ; this locates 24; from 21 to S is 1--2 waist ; apply the blade measure 
from 1 to L which in this case is F"i inches and square up and down from L; this locates Q. 

Foint M is halfway between 1 and F; M U< N is 1^/4 inches; square up fnmi N to 
locate (); N to P is t'3 breast; j)oint I is halfway between M and N; from 'I'l to 7 is the 
same distance as 1 to I; draw a line from 4 to 7; from A to v'.'i is 'j the flistance of F 
to 2'?> or J/> of the blade increase; shape the center back from 'I') into V. 

iM'om A to S is (i;Fs inches; 8 to !) is IJ,-! inches; draw a line from A to 1); from 25 
to 1(1 is '1, breast; s(|uare up from in to locate II ; draw a line from 34 i'T-"'! below .11 to 
(J and sha]>e the back as shown; ]>oint T is halfway between (J and S; U is halfway be- 
tween F and 1 ; draw a line from T through L" up; from 'lb to 11 and L to \' is the strap 
measure plus ^4 inch; draw a line from \' to (); from \' to Z is ;y^ inch less than the 
back shoulder width; drop the shoulder fi inch below Z and shape the shoulder and arm- 
scye. 

Now linish this coat in the same manner as described on diagram ;i. This slight round 
that we have olitained at the center of back will bring the shoulder width up to the 
normal and will give just enough njund to pocket the blade bone, and give it a clear 
side seam. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



;53 




DIAGRAM 9.. 



34 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 10 
SACK COAT FOR A FIGURE WITH A SMALL BLADE. 

The measurements are the same for this cuat as descrilied f(ir diagram i, with the 
exception that the blade measure is 12 inches. 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus ^4 inch; C is waist length; C to D is (i inches; 
A to E is full length; F is halfway between A and P.; (i is halfway Ijetween A and l' ; 
square out from G, B, C, D and E. 

From C to 2 is 3^ the indentation; E to 22 is J4 tlic distance of C to 2; draw a line 
from V to 2 and 2 to 22; from 1 t<i II is y^ breast; H to I is 1^ inches; 1 to J is 3^ 
inch; K is halfway between 1 and H; from K to L is l^y2 inches; square dnwn from L 
to locate O; from Q to S is y^ waist; apply the blade measure from 1 to 2;i which is 12 
inches and square up and down; this locates 21; M is halfway between 1 and 23; from M to 
N is lj4 inches; square up from N; N to P is 12 breast; point 1 is halfway between M and 
N ; from 22 to 7 is the same distance as from 1 to 1 ; draw a line from 1 to 7. 

From A to 25 is 1/ the distance of 23 to L, in this case 34 iin^h ; draw a line from 
25 to F and shape the center seam; from 25 to 8 is G;Hi inches; 8 to 1) is ly inches; draw 
a line from 25 to !); 25 to 10 is IL breast; square up from 10 to locate 11; draw a line 
from 34 inch below 11 to O and shape the back; point T is halfway between 2 1 and S; 
point U is halfway between 2.') and 1 ; draw a line from T through U up. 

I'rcjm 25 to 11 and 23 to V is the strap measure plus ^5^4 inch; draw a line from V 
to O ; shape the shoulder and armscye as shown and finish in the same way as on diagram 3. 
The difference between this coat and the normal coat is that whilst the waist is apjilied from 
where the 33/) inches are squared down, the division for the shoulder ]joint is always made 
by the blade measure. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



35 




DIAGRAM 10. 



-ifi AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAMS II AND 12 

Diagram 11. To cause a small fold at the back nf the arm, proceed as follows: after 
the hackpart is cut out, add fnim A to B ^ or jj inch and reshape the backpart as sliown 
l)y brciken line. This part of the back is to be drawn in and pressed back; there is no 
wing" to be put in on that part (if the back in making up coat. 

Diagram 1".'. To make the shoulder narrower, ]>lace the backpart and forepart togeth- 
er at the shoulder seam and resha|je as shown bv the broken line. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



3? 




DIAGRAM 11. 



DIAGRAM 12. 



38 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 13 

Diagram 13 shows how to increase the width of tlie shoulder. If an extremely wide 
shoulder is wanted, yi3u may proceed as shown in this diagram. Add from A to B and 
11 to 13 say ^ inch; add from V to W the same amount; add to the backpart from O to 
N al)out Yi. inch or ^ inch ; add from P to Q ^ inch and reshape the back part as per broken 
line. Now place the back shoulder alongside of the front shoulder and reshape the forepart 
as from Y to correspond with the back part as at N. This will increase the shoulder width 
without disturbing or interfering with any other part of the coat. Of course the armhole 
should be measured for the sleeve before the addition has been made. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



39 




DIAGRAM k;. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 14 
SACK COAr FOR A SWAY-BACK FIGURE. 

Tlie measurements are as follows: 

Indentation gi^ inches. 

Scye depth 9^ inches. 

Waist length 17 inches. 

Full length 30>4 inches. 

Strap 13J4 inches. 

Overshouhk-r 17^^ inches. 

Blade 13 inches. 

Breast 38 inches. 

Waist 3iy2 inches. 

Seat 401/2 inches. 

S(|uare d(_)\vn and out from A. 

From A to B is scye depth plus ^4 inch; C is natural waist length; C to D is G inches; 
A to E is full length; F is halfway between A and B; G is halfway between A and F; 
square out from (I, B, C, D and E. 

From C to 2 is ^ the indentation, in this case l|s inches; F to 22 is '^ the distance 
of from C to 2; draw a line from F to 2 antl 2 to 22 and shape the center of back; 
this locates 1 ; from 1 to H is J4 breast; H to 1 is 1^ inches; 1 to J is 44 inch; K is 
halfway between 1 and H; from K to L is 3'/, inches; square down from L to locate 
Q; apply the blade measure from 1 to L which is 13 inches and sc[uare up; M is half- 
way between 1 and L; M to N is \y^ inches; square up from N to locate O. 

From N to P is 1^-2 breast; point 4 is halfway between M and N; from 22 to 7 is the 
same distance as from 1 to 4 ; draw a line from 1 to 7 ; from .\ to S is ('>-}i inches ; 8 to 
9 is 13/2 inches; draw a line from A to 9; A to JO is li breast; square up from 10 to 
locate 11 ; draw a line from j/4 inch below 11 to O and shape the back, 

THE FOREPART. 

From O to S is '< waist; [loint T is halfway between (J and S; point U is halfway 
between F and 1; draw a line from T through U up ; frcjui Ato II and L to V is the strap 
measure plus •j'4 inch; draw a line from \ to O; from \' to Z is y^ inch less than the back 
shoulder width ; drop the shoulder ^g inch at Z and shape the sliotdder and armscye 
as shown. 

Square fcjrwards from V by line T-U ; V to W is 'A breast plus j/2 inch; ilraw a round- 
ing line from VV to J; from \V to X is I-o breast minus y^ inch; \' to Y is ' s breast; 
from W to X, as explained before, is merely a change for lapel style; draw a line from ^' 
to X and shape the gorge; from Q to R is the same distance as from C to 2, in this case 
^}i inches; draw a line from R through S; from S to 13 is 1 inch; J to 12 is the same; 
square down fnjm 13 by line R-S ; this locates points (i and Ki. 

I''r(jm 11; to 1; is y breast; from (i back to 1-') i'- •'! inches; from 23 to ;! and I .") to 20 
is the hip measure; from S back to 14 is 2^ inches; from 5 to 2 and 14 to 18 is the waist 
measure plus -Vj inch ; draw a line from 18 through 20 down and shape the side of fore- 
part ; from 18 to 21 is the same distance as 5 to 7; shape the front edge, bottom of fore- 
part and fmish. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



41 




DIAGRAM 14. 



43 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 15 

Tills diagram shows how to cut an increased or exaggerated size coat without dis- 
turbing the balance. The measurements for this coat are the same as given in the 
previous diagram, except that the waist indentation is normal. 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye dt'iilli plu^ J/( inch; C is waist length: C to U is H inches;- 
A to E is full length; F is halfway between A and B; Cl is halfway between A and F; 
square out from G, B, C, D and \L. 

h'rom C to 2 is J^j the indentation, }4 inch; E to 22 is y^ the distance of from C to 2; 
draw a line fmm F to 3 and 3 to 23; shape the center seam; from 1 to 34 is 'j inch; 
3 to 3.5 and o to 3G are the same; from 24 to IT is y> breast; II to I is Ifj inches; I to 
J is ^i inch; K is halfway between 34 and H; K to L is sy^ inches; square down from L 
to locale (J; apply tlic lilade measure from 34 to L which is I.'! inches and square up. 

From L back to 37 is y inch or y the distance of from 1 tn 34; point M is halfway 
between 1 and 37; M to N is ly inches; square up from X tn locate O; point 1 is halfway 
between M and N; from 33 to 7 is the same <listaiicc as fnim 1 to 4; draw a line fmni 7 to 
4; N to P is I'l breast; from A to 8 is 6^ inches; S to t) is I'j inches; draw a line from .\ 
to ii ; .V to 10 is 'o breast; square up from 10 to locate Ji; ilraw a line from y inch 
beliiw 11 to () and shape the back. 

I'"rom y to S is y^ waist; point 'V is halfwas' between (J and S; point U is halfway 
Ijetween L and I; draw a line from T through U up; frcmi A to Jl and L to Y is the strap 
measure plus ^'4 inch; draw a line from \' to O; V to Z is y inch less the width of the 
back shoulder; drop the shoulder y inch at Z and shajje the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forwards from V Ijy line T-U; V to ^V is 'A breast plus 'j inch; draw a round- 
ing line from W" to J ; W to X is li breast; V^ to Y is y breast; draw a line from Y to X 
and shape the gorge; from O to R is y inch; draw a line fi'oni Iv through S; S to F! is i 
inch; j to 13 is the same; square down from i:i by line R-S ; this locates pcjints li and JG; 
from 10 to 17 is j/^ breast; (I to 15 is .'> inches; from 2-> to 3(1 and 13 to 30 is the hip measure; 
from 30 i)ack to 19 is 3 inches. 

Square up from 19 to locale IS; draw a line from IS tliroUL;h ".'0 down and shape the 

side of forepart; 18 to 31 is the same distance as from 5 to 7; linish this coat the same as 

the other coats. This kind of a jtattern will produce an easy coat and it is specially recom- 
mended for tall, slender men. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 




DIAGRAM 15. 



J4 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 16 
FOUR-BUTTON STRAIGHT-HANGING SACK. 

The tneasurcmeiits are as follows: 

Scye depth uy^ inches 

Waist length 17 inches 

PTill length SOjA inches 

Strap ]2ji inches 

Overshouklcr 18 indie's 

Blade \3% inches 

Breast ; 39 inches 

\Vaist 35>2 inches 

Scat iiy^ inches 

S(|uare (Inwn and out from A. 

From A to li is the scye dejjth plus % inch; (_" is «'aist length; C to D is 6 inches; 
A to E is full length; F is iialfway Ijctween A and 11; (i is halfway between A and F; 
scjuare out from G, B, C, D and E. 

From C to 2 is -"4 inch, J/2 indentation; draw a line from 1'" to 2 and scpiare down; 
this locates 22; from 1 to H is y2 l)reast ; 11 lo 1 is 1;^ inches; I to J is •)4 inch; K 
is halfway between 1 and H; K to L is 3}-^ inches; square down from L to locate Q; 
apply the blade measure from 1 to I, which is 1 3 '4 inches and square up; M is halfway 
between 1 and L; M to N is ^y inclics; squaie up from N-to locate O; from N to P is i'j 
breast; 22 to 7 is tlie same distance as I to N; draw a line from "i to N. 

From A to S is G-)s inehes; S to !l is P/^ inches; draw a line from A to !) ; from A 
to 10 is ''b Ijreast ; square up from Hi to locate 11; draw a line from 11 b) O and shape 
the back as shown; from Q to S is 'j waist minus ;/. inch; ])oint T is halfway between 
O and S; point U is halfway between F an 1 I; draw a line from T through U up; from 
A to 11 and L to \' i^ the stra|) measure i)lus ■"' ( inch; ilraw a line from Y to (); from V to 
Z is ^ inch less than the back shoulder width ; drop the shoulder 'x "icli at Z and shape 
the shoulder ancl armscye. 

S(|uarc forwards from \' by line T-II ; V to W is '•/. breast plus yi inch: draw a round- 
ing line fmm W to j ;. from (J to R is v'f inch ; draw a line from. R through S. Take note: 
this coat is cut 'j inch smallei' at the front waist; this is done to reduce the front edge; 
from J to 1'.' is 1 inch; S to 13 is the same; square down fioni 13 by line R-S; this lo- 
cates K; ; K; to b; is I,, breast. 

Square down from 5; this locates 10; l!l to 20 i- 2 iiudies ; draw a line from 5 through 
20 down and sha|)e the side of forepart; from 5 to 21 is the same distance as from 5 to 
7; shape the front eilge, bottoni of forepart and finish. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



45 



12 ,J I H U 

f> /^® ® 





-80^!)C 



^ID 



22 



DIAGRAM Mi. 



46 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 17 

BOX SACK COAT. 

This diagram shows what is considered a box sack coat. Although not as full as 
a box overcoat, yet it will hang full from the shoulder down. The measurements are the 
same as shown on the pre\ious diagram. , 

Sc^uare down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus j4 inch; C is waist length; C to D is G inches; 
A to E is full length; F is halfway between A and B; (i is halfway between A and F; 
square out from G, B, C, D and F. 

From C to 2 is ^ inch; draw a line from F through 2 down; this locates 23; from 
1 to H is 1/2 breast; H to 1 is 1>1> inches; I to J is ^4 inch; K is halfway between 1 
and 11; from K to L is 3>^ inches; square down from L tn locate Q; apply tlie blade 
measure from 1 to L and square up; M is halfway between 1 and L; from M to N is 
1}^ inches; square up and down from N; this locates points (J and 18; from 18 to I'J 
is V/> inches; \S to 20 is 0J-2 inches, or make the distance from 111 to 20, 5 inches. 

From N to I'isi'i breast; square out from 1'; V to 23 is '/i inch; draw lines from P 
through l!t to 7 and from 23 tlirougli 20 down; from A to 8 is C>^i inches; ,S to 'J is 1'/, 
inches; draw a line from A to il ; A to 10 is 'A breast; scpiare up from lo to locate 11; 
draw line from ^4 inch below 11 to ( ) ;ind sliape the back. 

I'^rom y to S is y^ inch less than ' j waist; jjoint T is halfway l)etween O and S; point 
U is halfway between L and 1; draw a line from T througli U up; from A to 11 and L to 

V is the strap measure plus -y^ inch; draw a line from \' to '); from \' to Z is ■}/)<, inch 
less than the back shoulder widtli; drop the shoulder 's incli at / and shape the shoulder 
and armscye. 

.S(|uare forwards from \' by line T-U ; from \' to W is ' ., breast plus ij inch; draw 
a roundino line from \V to J; \V to X isS'. breast; \' to Y is 's breast; draw a line from 

Y through .\ and shai^e the gorge; from (J to R is 1 inch; draw a line frcjui K to .S ; from 
S to 13 is 1 inch; ] to 12 is the same; square down from 13 by line R-S ; this locates 
point IG; 'from 16 to 17 is % breast; from 23 to 21 is the same distance as from 23 to 7; 
shape the bottom of forepart and finish hollowing the side seam of the forepart about 34 
inch at the waist. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



47 




DIACR.VM 1' 



48 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 18 ' 

THREE-BUTTON STOUT MAN'S SACK. 

Tlic measurements are as follows: 

Indentation IJ^ inches 

Scye depth S'/? inches 

Waist length J 7 inches 

Full length 3] inches 

Strap 13 inches 

Overshoulder 18J4 inches 

Blade ];i'< inches 

Breast ^0 inches 

Waist • 10 inches 

Hip i2 inches 

S(juare down and out from A. 

I'"nim A to B is the scye depth plus j/4 in^h ; C is waist length; C to D is C> inches; 
A to E is full length; F is halfway between A and B; (1 is halfway between A and F; 
scpiare out from (_!, B, C, D and E. 

From C to 2 is 3^ the indentation; E to 22 is }^ the distance of C to 2 ; draw a line 
from F to 8 and 2 to 22; shape tlie center seam; from 1 to H is '4 breast; H to I is 1^ 
inches ; I to J is % inch ; square up a short line from J ; K is halfway between 1 and H ; from 
K to L is 3^/2 inches ; sc^uare down from L to locate Q ; apply the blade measure from 1 to L, 
which is 131/2 inches and square up; M is halfway between 1 and L; from M to N is 1^ 
inches ; square up from N to locate O ; from N to P is iV breast ; point 4 is halfway between 
M and N. 

From 23 to T is the same distance as from 1 to 4; draw a line from 7 to 4; from A to 
8 is (i-}4 inches; 8 to 9 is IjA inches; draw a line from A to 9; from A to 10 is H breast; 
square u]j fr<:)m H) to locate 11; draw a line from J4 inch below 11 to O and shape the 
back; from Q to S is ^A waist; point T is halfway between O and S; point U is half- 
way between L and I; draw a line from T thrciugh U up. 

From A to 11 and L to V is the strap measure plus .;4 inch; draw a line from V to O; 
fruni \' to Z is ^ inch less than the ]:)ack shoulder widtli ; drop the shoulder ^ inch at 
Z and shape the shoulder and armscye; square forwards from \^ by line T-U ; square 
forwards from U by the same line; this lo^-ates 23; draw a line from W to 23; W to 
X is '/(, breast; \' to Y is }i breast; draw a line from Y to X and shape the gorge. 

From 23 to 12 is 1 inch; S to 13 is the same; Q to R is J4 the indentation; draw a 
line from R through S and square down from 11] by that line; this locates points (3 and 16; 
from 16 to 17 is ^ breast; from G back to 15 is .". inches; this being a stout man's coat and 
the seat measure being small, we apply the measurements in the following manner; from 
S back to 14 is 2J/2 inches; from 5 to 2 and 11 to 18 is the waist measure net. We always 
make it a rule to cut the stout man's or fal man's coat with as little addition as possible 
at the waist. 

Square down from 18 to locate 19; froni 19 ti> 2(t is 2 inches; draw a line from IS 
through 20 diiwn and shajje the side of forepart; from 18 to 21 is the same distance as 
from 5 to 7; draw a straight line from 21 to 17. 

Now api)ly the actual seat measure from 21 to 3 and from \'i to 2."); the distance from 
25 to 20 is surplus and is to be taken out as will be sluiwn in the next diagram; mark the 
pocket as usual after which split the forepart as from 30 to 21 and cut the pocket open 
as from 24 to 37 and from 27 down to 28. (Now see diagram 19). 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



49 




DIAGRAM 18. 



50 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 19 

I'lace tlie two parts of the forepart together at ^7, and keep the two edges close at 24; 
overhip them between 28 and 21) until the distance from 1 to 2 is the same as the surplus 
is on the previous diagram from 25 to 20; place the square to line 2-1-27 and square up 
to ,50; make the distance from 2i to 30 about 3 inches; cut out a small V of about }i inch 
between 27 and 30. 

Now clii) out a small piece as at 24; this will make U|) for the two seams which will 
lie taken out at 27, and will flallcu the foreiiart at the front corner of the ])iicket and 
throw a little fulness o\er the hip as is necessary for a man of llii^ build. 

Notice also the change that has taken place from the thin line tn the hca\ y line at the 
liotloni. After the front ha> been overlapped between 2l5 and :!'.). draw a straight line from 
25 to the bottom of the side seam. This will gi\e the aninnnl of excess length that is re- 
(juired to go over the round jiart of the stomach. 



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51 




DIAGRAM 19. 



r>2 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 20 
THREE-BUTTON SACK COAT FOR A CORPUIT.N I FIGURE. 

The measurements are as follows: • 

Indentation ]^ inches O\ershoul(ler ]y inches 

Scye depth !»;!4 inches Blade 14 inches 

Waist length 17 inches Breast 42 inches 

Full length 31 inches Waist 15 inches 

Strap l-'>y> inches Hip 17 .inches 

Square down and i.iut fmni A. 

i'"rom A to B is the scyc depth plus '4 inch; I" is waist length; C to D is (1 iuclies; 
A to E is full length; F is hallway between A and 11; ( i is halfwa\' hetween A and 1'"; 
sciuare out from (i, B, C, D and V.. 

F^rom C to 2 is ^ inch, y, the indentation; E to 22 is J/< the distance of C to 2 ; draw 
a line from F to 2, and from 2 to 22 and shai)e tlie center of hack; from 1 to H is yi 
breast; H to I is ].>4 inches; 1 to j is )'4 inch; K is halfway between 1 and H; K to L 
is 3J/2 inches; square down from L to locate O ; ajiply the blade measure from 1 to L which 
is 14 inches and square up. 

M is halfway l)etvveen 1 and L; from M to N is 1J4 inches; s(juare up from N to 
locate O; N to P is A breast; point 4 is halfway between M and N; from 22 to 7 is the 
same distance as from 1 to 4 ; draw a line from 4 to 7 ; A to 8 is (S-'/x inches; 8 to 9 is IJ'j 
inches; draw a line from A to it; A to 10 is "0 breast; square up from 10 to locate 11 ; 
draw a line from V4 inch below 11 to O and shape the liack. 

From Q to S is 1-2 waist; point T is halfway between O and S; jioint U is halfway 
between L and I; draw a line from T through U up; from A to 11 and L to \' is the strap 
measure plus -'-4 inch : draw a line from V to O ; \' to Z is ^ inch less than the back 
shoulder width; drop the shoulder 3-^ inch at Z and sliape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forwards from \' by line T-U ; V to ^\■ is '1', breast plus J/1 inch, also square 
forwards from U by line T-U ; .square up from J to locate 23 ; draw a rounding line from W 
to 23; W to X is the depth of gorge desired; from \' to Y is '/s breast; draw a line from 
Y to X and shape the gorge; Q to R is ^ inch or ' _> the indentation ; draw a line from R 
through S; S to 13 is 1 inch; 23 to 12 is the same; square down from 13 by line R-S ; 
this locates points G and IG. 

F"rom IG to 17 is i^ breast ; from S back fo 14 is 2',A inclies; from r. to 2 and 14 to 5 is 
the waist mea.sure net; square down from 5 to locate 19; from 19 to 20 is 2 inches; draw 
a line from 5 through 20 down and shape the side of forepart; from 5 to 21 is the same 
distance as from 5 to 7; draw a straight line from 21 to 17. 

Now apply the hip measure from 19 to 3 and 1 Ti to IS; fnim 18 to 20 is surplus and 
must be reduced the same as shown on diagrams 18 and 19. 



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53 




-3«-^iD 



mS'E 



DIAGRAM ao. 



54 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 21 
DOUBLE-BREASTED SACK. COAT. 

The measurements are as follows: 
Indentation VA inches Overshoulder 17?^ inches 



s 



Scye depth 9>^ inches Blade 13 inche 

Waist length 17 inches Breast 38 inches 

Full length 30>4 inches Waist 34^ inches 

Strap 131/2 inches Seat 40J/4 inches 

S((uarc down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus j/4 inch; C is waist length; C to D is 6 inches; 
A to E is full length; F is halfway between A and B ; G is halfway between A and F; 
square out from G, B, C, D and E. 

From C to 2 is 3^ indentation which is yl inch; E to 23 is 1/ the distance of C to 2 ; 
draw a line from F to 2 and 2 to 32 and shape the center seam; from 1 to H is 3/2 breast; 
II to I is FV4 inches; I to J is .;4 inch; K is halfway between 1 and 11; K to L is 3)^ 
inches ; scjuare down from L to locate Q. 

Apply the blade measure from 1 to L which is 13 inches and square up; M is halfway 
between 1 and L; M to N is 1^4 inches; square up from N; N to P is 1*2 breast; point 
4 is halfway between M and N; from 22 to 7 is the same distance as from 1 to 4 ; draw 
a line from 4 to 7 ; from A to 8 is 6^ inches; 8 to 9 is 1^ inches; draw a line from A 
to 9; A to 10 is ^^ breast; square up from 10 to locate 11; draw a line from ^4 i"ch below 
11 to O and shape the back. 

From Q to S is ^ waist; point T is halfway between Q and S; point U is halfway 
between L and I; draw a line from T through U up; from A to 11 and L to V is the 
strap measure plus -/^ inch; draw a line from V to O ; from V to Z is }i inch less than the 
back shoulder width ; drop the shoulder }i inch at Z and shape the shoulder and arm- 
scye; square forwards from V by line T-U ; from V to W is ]i breast plus '2 inch; draw 
a line from W to J ; from W to X is J^ breast; V to Y is >^ breast ; draw a line from Y to X 
and shape the gorge. 

From Q to R is •;4 inch; draw a line from R through S; from S to 13 is '^ of the 
button stand desired, in this case the buttons are to be (> inches from the edge, therefore 
the distance from S to 13 is 3 inches; square down from 13 by line R-S ; J to 13 is the 
same as S to 13 ; shape the front edge. 

From S back to 14 is 2i^ inches; G to 15 is ^ inch less than 13 to 14; from 23 to 3 
and 15 to 20 is the hip measure; 20 back to 19 is 2 inches; square up fmm 10 to locate IS; 
draw a line from 18 through 20 down and sliape the side of forepart: from 18 to 21 is 
the same distance as from 5 to 7 ; from 16 to 17 is }i breast; shape the bottom of forepart 
and finish. 

Apply the waist measure from 5 to 3 and 14 to 18 and suppress the balance l)y taking 
out an underarm fish. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



sn 




DIACKAM 21 



Mi AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 11 
DOUBLE-BREASTED SACK COAT FOR STOUT FIGURE. 

'I'lic lllea^^llrenle^ts are as follows : 

Indentation ] 1,-2 inches Overshoulcler 1!) inches 

Scye dei)th !i;}4 inches Blade 11 inches 

Waist length IT inches Breast \t inches 

Full length :; 1 inches Waist 42 inches 

Strap i:!>^ inches Hip 11 inches 

Square diiwii and dUt Imin A. 

From A to B is the sc\c depth plus I/4 inch; C is waist length; C to D is (i inches; 
A to E is full length; V is halfway hctweeu A and I!; (i is halfway between A an<l V\ 
square out from G, B, C, D and F. 

i'"roiu (' to .2 is y, indentation; !*" to 22 is Vi the distance nf L' to 2; draw a line from 
F' to 2 and 3 to 22; sha|)e the center seam; from I tn 11 is '_. hreast ; II to I is I .Vjj inches; 
I to J is •>4 inch; K is halfway between 1 and 11; K tn I. is ;!'_. inches; square down 
from L to locate (J; a|)ply the blade measure from I tn F whicii is II inches and square 
up; M is halfway between I and F; M to N is 1^4 inches; square up from N to locate O. 

b'rom N to V is i'- breast; puinl I is halfway between M and N; 22 to 7 is the same 
distance as from 1 to 4 ; draw a line froiu I to '7; A In S is G;>^ inches; S to !) is ]J,< 
inches; draw a line from A to !) ; A to in is 'i. l)reast ; s(puire up from ID to locate 11; 
draw a line fnmi J4 inch below 11 to O and shape the l)ack ; (J tn .^ is J,< waist; point T 
is halfway between O and S; point U is halfway between L and I; draw a line from '!'■ 
through LT up; A to 11 and L to \ is the strap measure ])lus •;4 inch; draw a line from V 
to O; V to Z is V-i inch less than the l>ack shoulder width; droj) the shoulder ^ inch at Z 
and shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forwards from \' by line T-LT ; V to W is M breast plus J^ inch; square for- 
wards froiri U by line T-l' ; scpiare up from J to Icicate 2.'! ; draw a rounding line from \V to 
23 ; \V to X is '1', breast ; V to Y is 1% breast ; draw a line from Y ti_) X and shape the gorge ; 
Q to R is ^ inch or j,i the indentation ; draw a line from R through S: S to i:! is 334 
inches; square down from 13 by line R-S; this locates ])oints 6 and 1(5; 16 to 17 is l^ breast; 
23 to 13 is the same distance as S to 13; shape the lapel and front edge. 

F^rom S back to 14 is 2>< inches; G back to 1.5 is ij inch le-s than 13 to 14; 5 to 2 
and 14 to 18 is the waist measure net; squa-re down from IS to locate 10; 1!) to 20 is 8 
inches; draw a line from IS through 20 down and shape the side of forepart; 18 to 31 is 
the same distance as from 5 to 7 ; draw a straight line from 31 to 17. 

Now apply the actual hip measure from 34 to 3 and 15 to 3.5; the distance from 25 to 
20 in this case is 134 inches; split the forepart open as shown and manipulate in the same 
manner as shown in diagrams 18 and 19 and finish. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



57 




17 W 



DIACRAM 2-t. 



58 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 23 
THREE-BUTTON SACK COAT FOR A HUNCH-BACK. 

Tlie iiieaMiicincnts are as follows: 

liulentatiuii 2 inches Overshoiilder 16^^ inches 

Scye depth 8 inches Blade 1 I inches 

Waist length 17 inches Breast . 10 inches 

Full length '■><) inches Waist 38 inches 

Strap 11 inches Flip 41 inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus ^ inch ; C is waist length ; C to D is G inches ; 
A to E is full length; F is halfway between A and B ; G is halfway between A and F; 
square out from G, B, C, D and E. 

From C to 2 is y< indentation. As we do not want tiiis coat too shapely, we make the 

distance from E to 22 the same ; draw a line from F" to 2 and from 2 down to 22 : from 1 

to H is i^ breast; H to I is 1^ inches; I to J is }i inch; K is halfway between 1 and H; 

K to 31 is ^yi inches; square down from 31 to locate Q; apply the blade measure from 1 to 

L which is 14 inches and square up and down ; T^\ is halfway between 1 and L; M to N is 134 

inches; square up from N to locate O ; N to F"' is iV breast; point 4 is halfway between M 
and N ; 22 to 7 is the same distance as 1 to 4. 

Draw a line from 4 to 7 ; from A to 8 is 6^ inches; 8 to 9 is 1^ inches; draw a 
line from A to 9 ; A to 10 is % breast; square up from 10 to locate 11; draw a line from 
J4 inch below 11 to O and shape the back; from Q to S is J/^ waist; point T is halfway be- 
tween 6 and S ; point U is halfway between L and I ; draw a line from T through V ; from A 
to 11 and L to V" is the strap measure plus ;!4 inch : draw a line from V to O. 

Now apply the overshoulder measure plus 1 inch frnm 1 to 24 and L to 33; in this 
case the overshoulder measure up to line V-Z is 1 '/^ inches short, therefore proceed as 
follows: from A to 26 is 1^4 inches; 10 to 27 is the same; square up from 27 to locate 28; 
from O to 29 is \}i inches; draw a line from 28 through 29; draw a line from 26 to F 
and reshape the back as shown, shaping the top of the back from 26 which is the upper line. 

Measure the distance from 28 to 30 and make the distance from A^ to Z ji inch less; 
shape the shoulder and armscye as shown; square forwards from \' l)y line T-U ; from V 
to \\' is H breast plus J4 inch; make the distance from W to X li breast more or less 
according to the kind of gorge desired; from V to Y is >^ brea.st ; square forwards from 
Y and shape the gorge; O to R is 1 inch; draw a line from R through S; S to 13 is 
1 inch; T to 12 is the same; square down from 13 by line R-S ; this locates 16 ; 16 to 17 
is J/s breast; S back to 14 is 2^4 inches ; square ilown from 11 to locate 15; 19 to 3 and 15 
to 20 is the seat measure. 

From 5 to 2 and 14 to 18 is the waist measure : draw a line from IS through 20 down 
and sliapc the side of forepart; shape the front edge, bottom of forepart and finisli. 



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131)^—®' 



DIAGRAM 23. 



00 AMERICAN GARMKNT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 24 
SHAWL COLLAR TUXEDO. 

'["lie measurenienls are as follows: 

Indciitatioii ] J/2 inches Blade l'i>-j inches 

Scye depth !• inches Breast ;iG inches 

Waist length !()'/> inches Waist o2 inches 

Strap \'i inches Seat :iS inches 

(.)\ crshoulder 17 inches 

Sqnare down an<l init fruni y\. 

I''n>ni A tn 15 is the scye deijtii plus J4 inch; C is waist length; C to D is 6 inches; 
A t(i K is full length; I' is lialfway between A and B; ('■ is halfway between A and F; 
square dut fnmi (1, 11. C, I) and E; C to 2 is ^2 indcntatii )n ; ]•: to 32 is y, the distance of 
ficini C to :.' ; draw a line fnmi V to 2 and 2 to 22, and shape the center of back. 

h'rniii I 111 11 is ' , breast: II tn 1 is 1 i^ inches; I to j is .;.[ inch; K is halfway 
between 1 and II; K tM 1, i> :',' j inciies; square down frMiii L lu lipcate < J ; ajiply the blade 
measure from 1 In L whicli is 12' 2 inches and s,|uarc u]i; .\1 is halfway between I and 
1.: fruni M to N is i_^4 inches; S(|uare up from N ti> locate U; fnmi N to V is t'j breast; 
pnint 4 is halfway between M and N; 22 to 7 is the same distance as fmni I to I; draw a 
line fnmi I t(i 7; A to S is (J^Vs inches; 8 to D is lyi inches; draw a line fnmi A U> '.). 

Imi'Iii a ti' in is '1. breast: sc|uare up from 10 to h.icate II; draw a line fruiu '4 inch 
bclnw II t(i (J and shape the back: ij tn S is ' j waist; point T is halfway l)etween O and 
S ; pciint li is halfway l)etween L and I ; draw a line from T through U up; from A to 11 
and L to \' is the strap measure plus .;4 inch ; draw a line fnun \' to O; \' to Z is ^g i'lch less 
than the l)ack shoulder width : dn>p the -houldcr ■>« inch at Z and >liape the shimlder and arni- 
scye. 

Square forwards fmm \" by line T-U: from \' to 2:! is ^}^ inches which is for the 
collar stand; 2:i to \\ is the width nf the collar desired plus 14 i"^'' i^'"' seam ; draw a line 
from ^\■ through 1: from [J to R is ■;4 inch; draw a line, from R to S ,ind s(|uare down; 
this locates points (i ami Ki: from Hi to 17 is J4 breast: from V, l)ack to I ."1 is 2 inches; 27 to 
;! and 15 to 20 is the seat measure; from 90 back to 10 is 2 inches; scjuarc u]> fnmi 19 to 
locate 18; draw a line from IS through 2(1 and shape the side of forejjart ; from 18 to 21 
is the same distance as fnmi .') to 7; draw a line from 21 to 17. 

THE COLLAR 

Draw- a line from li through 2;'. uj) ; from 2;'> to 2d is ^ inch more than the top width of 
the back. Fnim 2-1 to 2."> is I34 inches; shape the collar stand fnmi 2.") t<A' and into the gorge; 
24 to 26 is the width of the collar desired ; shape the collar from 20 through J and 1.3 to 6. 



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DIAGRAM ;i4. 



G2 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 25 
PEAKED LAPEL TUXEDO. 

The measurements are as follows: 

Indentation 1>4 inches Overshouldcr 18>4 inches 

Scye depth 9^ inches Blade 13>4 inches 

Waist length H inches Breast 40 inches 

Full length ■'SOi--^ inches Waist 37 inches 

Strap 1 '^ inches Seat 43 inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus "4 inch ; C is waist length ; C to D is 6 inches ; 
A to E is full length ; F is halfway between A and B ; G is halfway between A and F ; 
square out from G, B, C, D and E. 

From C to 2 is J4 indentation ; E to 22 is JX the distance of from C to 2 ; draw a line 
from F to 2 and 2 to 22 and shape the center of back; from 1 to H is 3/ breast; H to 
I is l-;4 inches; I to J is the same; K is halfway between 1 and H; K to L is 3}4 inches; 
scjuare down from L to locate Q; apply the blade measure from 1 to L which is 13^ 
inches and square up. 

Point M is halfway between 1 and L; M to N is ly^ inches; square up from N to 
locate O ; N to P is iV breast ; point 4 is halfway between M and N; 22 to 7 is the same 
distance as from 1 to 4 ; draw a line from 4 to 7 ; from A to 8 is 6}i inches; 8 to 9 is 1 34 
inches; draw a line from A to 9; A to 10 is 'A breast; square up from 10 to locate 11 ; 
draw a line from j4 inch below 11 to O and shape the back. 

From Q to S is J.j waist; point T is halfway between Q and .S ; point U is halfway 
between L and I ; draw a line from T through U up; from A to 1 1 and L to V is the strap 
measure plus -)4 inch; draw a line from V to O; V to Z is ^ inch less than the back 
shoulder width ; drop the shoulder ^g, inch at Z and shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forwards from V by line T-U ; V to 23 is 1^4 inches; V to W is Vg breast; 
draw a straight line from W to I; \V to X is li breast; V to Y is '/& breast; draw a line 
from Y to X and shape the gorge; from Q to R is -^ inch ; place the square to points R-S 
and square down; this locates point G-1G. 

From 16 to 17 is yi breast; now draw a line from t! up thrcjugh 2;i ; from 23 to 24 is 
% inch more than the top width of the back; 24 to 25 is lj4 inches for the collar stand; 
34 to 26 is the width of the collar desired; shape the collar and lapel and front edge; 
from 6 back to 15 is 2 inches; from 27 to 3 and 15 to 20 is the seat measure: 20 back 
to 19 is 2 inches; square up from 19 to locate 18; draw a line from 18 through 20 down 
and shape the side of forepart. From 18 to 21 is the same distance as 5 to 7 ; shape 
the bottom of forepart and finish. 



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DIAGRAM 25. 



«i AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 26 

Some cutters imagine that if the side seLini ui the Ijackpart lias the same line as the 
side seam of the forepart that the coat will ha\e a better line and will be easier to put 
together. If this is desired, proceed as follnws: from ] to M is I/2 blade; M to N is 
134 inches; from 32 to 7 is the same distance as 1 to N; draw a line from M tn 7; 
from N to 4 is A breast; from 4 to P is JX inch; draw a straight line from P to :") ; now 
sha|)e the backpart as shown in this diagram. 

From Q to S is ^ waist; S to 14 is 2'-j inches; point le't is 3 inches from the front 
edge; apply the waist measure from o to 2 and 14 to 18; apply the seat measure from 
19 to '?> and I '> to 20; point (i is halfway between 5 and 18 ; draw a line from (> through 20 ; 
now cut out the backpart and place it ti> the side seam of the forejiart as shown on this 
diagram and shape the front with the backpart. 



DIAGRAM 27 



If a higher back seam is desired, proceed as shown on this diagram. Lay the backpart 
and forepart together, shoulder to shoulder; add from 11 to V j4 or jki inch, and from O 
to Z the same and reshape as per broken line. The back shoulder seam should never 
be increased in any other way, because in this way only can the back recei\ e the proper 
line at the neck. 



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Pi 



66 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 28 
FROCK COAT. 

Tlie nicasnrcnients arc as fullows: 

Indentation ly^ inches (J\-ersh( mldcr ITSg inches 

Scye depth !) v,s inches P.Iade i;! inches 

Natural waist lenj^tli \il)^ inclies ilreast 38 inches 

Fashinnable waist length 18)/. inches Waist 34}^ inches 

Strap \-l '/> indies 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus "4 '''''^''' • *- i*" nalnr.al waist lennth ; 1) is fashion- 
able waist length; F is halfway between A and U ; G is halfway between A and F' ; 
square out from tj, F, B, C, D and E. 

From C to R is 3,4 inch, J 4 indentation; draw a straight line frcmi A through R to O; 
this locates 11 ; from 11 to 1 is y^ breast; I to J is 1' j inches; j to 14 is ^ inch; K is half- 
way between H and I; K to L is 3l4 inches; stiuare down from L to locate Al ; appl\- the 
blade measure from 11 to L which is K! inches and s(|uare up; N is halfway between 11 and 
L; from N to O is lj4 inches; from A to 24 is the same distance as from 11 to ( ) ; draw a 
line from U to "^4. 

From A to T is 6ys inches; T to U is IjA inches; draw a line frnm A to U ; from A to 
V is % breast; square up from \' to locate W ; draw a line from J-^ inch below \V to P; 
from Q to S is J^ breast; this may be increased or decreased according to style; square up 
from S to E ; from E to 22 is 1 ;>-4 inches; sweep from 1 through 23 pivoting at 92; from' 1 
to 23 is the same distance as from 1 to 22; sweep fnim 1 to 22 pi\oting at 23 and shajie 
the side of backpart, taking care that your line is regular and has no digs ; frdui Al to I is 
}4 waist ; square down from 4. 



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14 J I 



DIAGRAM 28. 



•iS AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 29 

THREE BUTTON FROCK, (Continued) 

From X to V is ]^ inches; point Z is lialfway l)etween Y and M ; square down from "\' ; 
from 1 to 2 is ^ inch ; point ;! is ' 1> incli abo\e the waist line ; from ( ) to K is i'^ breast ; shape 
the sidehod_v as shown : from 1 1 to 1'.' is Ij inch less than 'i, breast ; point "i is lialfw :iy between 
M and I ; point (i is halfway between L and j ; draw a line from ;j through (i up ; from A to W 
and L to T is the strap measure plus ■> |. inch ; draw a line from 7 to 1' ; from 7 to 2IJ is -j^; inch 
less than the back shoulder width; drop the shoulder -^.s inch at •.':! and shape the shouhlei' 
and armseye. 

Scpiare forwards from 7 by line ")-ri ; fi-om '] to !l is '., breast; draw a rounding' line from 
!) to J-l; from I) to Hi in this case is li breast; this g'lrge, the same as in a sack coat, may 
])e raised or lowered in accordance with style; from 7 to 8 is ■/« l)reast; draw a line 
from 8 to H) and shape the gorge; from i back to 27 is 2J4 inches where a fish is cut out 
at the waist; wdiere no lish is cut out, the distance from 4 to 27 is to Ije l-}^^ inches. A 
lish may be cut out in all coats where the wai^t is I inches smaller than the breast or more. 
e\'en 3 inches smaller than the breast, but where the waist is less than 2 inches smaller 
than the breast, it is adxisable to lea\c the lish oiu, in which case the distance from I to 27 
would be only 1^4 inches. 

l'"rom X to R, Z to Y and 27 to 21 is the waist measure net ; draw a straight line from 
;> to 12 and shape the side seam and bottom of forep.nrt ; from II to l.') is \yl inches; f 
to ]'■> is the s.'imc ; sha|)c the l.ipel and front edge. 

THE SKIRT. 

("lO up from M to 20, ^/^ inch always; from 21) down to M is Jj indentation; this 
point may come aboxe or below the waistline. l)iagr;ims I!!) and 10 will show how the 
spring changes for either a swayback or a flat-hack. T'lace the s(|uare lo where\er the in- 
dentation Climes and square down from Y. 

From Y to 25 is 9 inches; 2.") to 26 is IJ/^ inches; draw a line from 22 through 20 
down ; from 22 to E is 34 '"'-"li niore than from S to 17 ; from 12 to 18 is the same distance as 
from 22 to E; draw a line from 18 to F. ; ])oint in is 5s inch below point '^ : shape the to]i of 
skirt and round it ^-g inch at 26. Now mark j-our buttonholes, shape off the lower jiart of 
the front of the skirt and finish. 



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130)- 




DIAGRAM 2'J. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 30 

After the hackpart is lUt nut and the strap aiul civershouhlcr is elieckcd olY. proceed 
as follows: riace the sidcbody on the forepart and see that the forepart an<l sidehody meet 
at the breast line after they arc sewn together, also hollow the forepart a scant ^4 inch 
where the tisli is placed, so that after the fish is sewn together, the seams should run as 
shown on Diagram 31. 



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o 

CO 



< 

I— I 

Q 








R <a 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 32 

Sliiiuld i.iiic sill luldcT he Kjwer than the- iitlier iirdcecd as follows; the fmck coat slmulil 
always l:)e nieasuix-d and cut for the high shi mlder, as cxiilaiiied for sack coats, and the 
change should be made on the low side. If the difi'erence between one shoulder anil the 
other is ^ inch, lower your sidebody from F to G J/2 inch and from D to !•". the same. Mo\e 
point (I ot the sidebody up on a level with the forepart anil shorten the side of the forepart 
from 1 1 to 1 t(.i correspond with the sidebody. Reshape the sidel.)ody as per broken line. 



DIAGRAM 33 



In a case of the liody leaning o\er to one side the change is made tlie same as in sack 
coats. After the pattern has been cut for the high side, copy the original pattern and 
proceed as shown on this diagram. Split the pattern as from A to the center of l)ackpart 
and from A to the front edge; overlap the forepart as from A to B and overlap the backpart 
and sidc1)ody froni A to C. 

Notice: — This change should always be made on the sidebodv and backjiail together, 
after which straiL;hlcn the center seam of the backpart and fill in slightly at the sides. 



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CO 

CO 



< 
Pi 

o 
<; 



74 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 34 

FIGURE WITH A FLAT BLADE AND A FULL CHEST. 

The iia'asurcinents arc tlic same as in (lia,L;i-ain '!', , with liie c.\cei)tiuii that the blade 
measure is I'ij/^ inches, which is jj inch smaller than nnrmal. 

S(jnarc ilnwn ami nut iVdm A. 

l^"|-(ini A t(_) 1! is the scye depth plus j4 ii^h : C' is natural waist length; F is halfway 
between A and 1!; (i is halfway between A and I''; -(|uare nut fnim ( i, 1'", B and C. 

iM'om C to R is •):f inch; draw a slraiglit line from A thrnus^h K ; this locates 11; frcmi II 
to 1 is J/j breast; 1 to J is 1 j,/. inches; i\ is halfway between II and I ; K tn I, is '-'ly^ inches; 
square down froiu L; this h nates M : finni M in I is ' _. waist; apply tlu' Idadc measure 
from H to 8 wliich is \''\j inches and -([uarc up and dnw n ; (his lucates '.I; point 5 is half- 
way between 11 and -1; puiiit (I is halfway between s and J : ihaw a line frnm Ti througli G 
up; point N is halfway between II anil .s ; N tn U is 1)4 inches: ivvu) A In :i is j/2 the 
distance of from 8 to L; draw a line fri^m II to 2. 

F'rom 2 to T i.s G-y^ inches; T to L' is 1 ' _. inches; draw a line from 2 to U; from 2 to 
V is % breast ; square up from \' t(j locate \V ; draw a line from 34 i"^'l> below \V to I^ and 
finish the coat as usual. 



DIAGRAM 35 

FIGURE WITH A LARGE BLADE AND A FLAT CHES T. 

The nieasui'emcnts for this cnat are the s:une as in the piexious diagram with the ex- 
ceiition that the blade measurement i-- bl'/. inches, which makes it ' '^ inch larcer than 
normal. 

S(|uare diiwn and out from y\. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus I4 inch; C is wai'^t length; 1'" is b.ilfway between 
A and B; (i is halfway between /\ and U ; s(juare nut fmm (I, V, B and C; this locates 
II; from H to I is JX full breast; I to j is ) '/> inches; J tn If is ji inch; K is halfway be- 
tween Id and I : from K to 8 is 3'S inches; squ ire down from 8 to locate 9; from 9 to 4 is J/^ 
waist; apply the blade measure from Id to L wdiich is i;!'^ inches and square up and down; 
this locates M ; point 5 is half\\a\- between M and 1 ; point G is halfway between L and 
J ; draw a line from 5 through G up. 

From A to 2 is yi the distance of 8 to L. in this case ^ inch; from 2 to T is 6^ inches; 
T to I' is 1 J. J inches; draw a line from U to A; from 2 to V is % lireast ; square up 
from \' to locate W ; draw a line fmni J4 mi:\\ bclnw W to P and shape the Ijack ; now 
draw a line fr(jm 2 tn F and resluqie the center as per Ijrnken line. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



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< 




'•'■< AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 36 
THREE-BUTTON FROCK. 

The measurcmc'iits are as Inllows; 

Scye deplli !i>8 indies (Jxersliuulder 17^^ inehes 

Waist length Ki' j inches Bhide l.'i inches 

{•"ashionahle waist len.L;tii Ilsj4 inches Breast .'ifS inches 

l*"ull length' ;!S inches Waist IJO inches 

Strap I'." J inche-; 

This is the kind cif a cnal that is neilhci stunt nnr regular, and is made as folluws; 
S(|nare duwn and mit fmin A. 

l'"nini A In 1! i> the sc\ e depth plus '.| inch; (' is waixt length; L' tu L) is fashii nialile 
waist length: I'', is full length; V is halfway lictween A and L'> ; (i is hallway hetw ecu A 
and 1'"; square dut fruui (i, h', I!, C'. 1) and \i. 

I'^roin C t(i R is 'j iudentatiou ; draw a line fri lui A thiuugh R tn <J and sipiare duwn; 
this Idcates II; fmui 11 tci I is '/< hVeast ; I tn I is !'_. inches; J In II is '4 inch; 1\ is 
halfway between II an<l 1 ; K to L is Si-/, inches; square down fi'iini L to locate M; apply 
the blade measure fruni 11 Id L which is ]'■> inches and square up; N is halfway between II 
andl,; frc im N to (J is 1 J/:^ inches ; frcjm A to '21 is the same distance as from II to ( ) ; draw 
a line fri nn ( ) to 2-k 

• I'rom A to T is f;.\s inches; T to U is I;! inches; draw a line from A to V : from A 
to \' is '., breast; s(|uare up from \' to lo:ate W ; clraw a line from '4 inch below W to 
V: from O to S is % breast; square dow u from S and shape back; from X to Y is 1J4 inches; 
from T to 'i is .'4 inch; from () to K is 1':; breast; point 20 is halfway between Y and IM ; 
draw a line from K through '.'n ; poiut •'! is '2 inch above the waist line ; shape the sidebody. 

From .M to 4 is ) j w'aist ; s(|uare d<iwn fnun 1; this locates 11; from II to 12 is 'S 
inch less than U, breast; ])oint 5 is halfway lietween W and I ; [loint (i is halfway between 
L and J; draw a line from 5 through <i u|i; from A to W and L to '1 is the strap measure 
plus .54 inch; draw a line fnmi 7 to P; from T to '33 is ^ inch less than "W to 1'; dro]i the 
shoulder -j^ inch at 2?> and shape the shoulder and armscye ; square forwards from 7 by 
line ri-(> ; from 7 to !l is % lu'east ; draw a rounding line from '■) to 11 ; make the distance from 
I) to 10 according to style; 7 to 8 is )s breast; shape the gorge. 

From I back to 27 in this case is 1'4' inches ; there being no hsh cut out in this coat, there- 
fore, it re(iuires ij inch less for makeup; apply the waist measure Irom X to R, 27 to Y 
and suppress the balance between Z and 21; shajie the side of forepart; draw a line from 
o to 12; l-iito l.j is Ij/^ inches; 4 to K! is the same. 

THE SKIRT. 

Sipiare down from Y; from Y to 2.") is 9 inches; 2.'J to 2(i is 1 ' !■ inches; draw a line 
from 22 through 20 down; from 22 to lH is I4 inch more than from S to 17; from 12 to IS 
is the same distance as 22 to i:i; ilraw a line from 10 to 18; point 16 is ?« i'l^^'i below 
point 3; shape the top of skirt, front e<lge and finish. 



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l)IA(iRAM :!(i. 



^s AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 

DIAGRAM 37 
THREE-BUTTON SACK. 

We (iflen hear cutters say mir trade is a college trade, — young men of athletic build 
with large chests and small waists. The following diagrams will sliow how the same 
method of cutting will priMhicc a cnat fur the athlete with a large lireasl and a small waist. 

The measurements are as follows: 

Indentation 2 inches Ovcrshonldcr l7-j4 inches 

Scye depth '^-ji inclies Pdade 13 inches 

Waist length 17 inches IJreast 38 inches 

Full length 30 inches Waist 33 inches 

Strap 12^4 inches Scat /lO inches 

Square down and out frnni .\. . 

P'rom .\ to B is the scye depth plus '4 iiu li : ( is wai^t k-iiglh, C to IJ is G inches; 
A to E is full length; h' is halfway between A .md 11; (i is halfway between A and F; 
square out finm G, B, C, I) and ]i. 

From C to 2 is y, the indentation, iu this case 1 inch; from F to 23 is y, tlie distance 
of C to 2, in this case }i inch; draw a line from !•" to 3 and 3 to 22 and shape the center 
of back; this locates 1; from ] to H is y, breast; !1 to I is \y inches; 1 to J is ■>4 
inch; K is halfway between 1 and 11; K to L is 3!/ inches; square down from L to locate 
(J; apply the l)Iade measure from 1 to I- which is 13 inches and s(piare up. 

Point Al is halfway between 1 an<l L; from M to N is 1^ inches; square up from N 
to locate O ; from N to 1^ is A breast ; point 4 i> halfway between 1\1 and N ; from 22 to 7 is 
the same distance as from 1 to 4 ; draw a line from 4 to 7 ; from A to 8 is G-)4 inches; S 
to 9 is IJ/, inches; draw a line from A to 9; from A to 10 is ,'1', breast; square up from 
10 to locate 11; draw a line from 3/4 inch below 11 to ( ) and shape the back. 

Add an extra ji inch at 19; from O to S is Js waist, in this case 8 inches; point T 
is halfway between Q and S; point U is halfway between L and I; draw a line from T 
through U up; from A to 11 and L to V is the strap measure plus J4 inch; draw a line 
from V to O ; from V to Z is y^ inch less than II to < ) ; droji the shoulder ji^ inch at Z and 
shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forwards from V by line T-U ; from \' to \\' is Va breast plus yi inch; make the 
distance from \V to X to suit the style; from \" Uj Y is Vg, breast; shape the gorge; from 
O to R is ^ the indentation, in this case 1 inch ; draw a line from R through S; from S to 
13 is 1 inch; J to 12 is the same; square down from 13 by line R-S ; this locates point 6 
and 16; from 6 to 15 is 3 inches; S to 14 is 2>j niches; apply the waist measure from 5 
to 2 and 14 to 24; point 18 is halfway between ."> and 24; apply the seat measure from 19 to 
3 and 15 to 20; draw a line from 18 through 20 and shape the side of forepart; this leaves 
the distance between 18 and 24 to be suppressed. 

Cut out an under-arm fish which may be taken out a little larger than usual, and also a 
front fish if desired. In cutting a front fish proceed as follows: start the under-arm fish 
about 1 inch above the pocket; now cut your front fish, which is placed about 1 inch from 
the front of the pocket to strike about the center of the brea.st pocket; cut the pocket open 
from the front fish to the side fish and take out a small V on a line parallel with the 
under-arm fish as shown ; this will take ofif one seam at the front fish and the V that is 
cut out in the pocket will take up the other seam and make the upper and lower edge 
of the pocket correspond. 

From 18 to 21 is the same distance as from 5 to 7 ; IH to 17 is >^ breast; shape the front 
edge, bottom of , forepart and finish. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



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DIAGRAM 



so AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 

DIAGRAMS 38 AND 39 

FROCK COAT FOR A LARGE BRFAST. SMALL WAIST & SLIGHTLY SWAY-BACK. 

This coat is cut i)y the same measurements as the sack Cdat with the cxceptinu thai 

Fashii )nal)le waist lenj^th is ^^Va inches 

l''uil leni^th ;!S inclu's 

Square thiwu and mit I'nim A. 

From A to B is tlie scye dejith phis '4 inch; C is natural waist length; D is fashion- 
able waist length; V. is full length; V is halfway between A am! 1'.; (1 is halfway l)etween 
A and l' ; square nut from (1, 1"". ?>, C, 1) and K. 

I'mni (_' In R is 'j tlie indentatidii, in tliis case 1 inch; draw a sti-aight line from A 
thrnugh Iv t(i (j and s(|uarc dnwn; this locates II; from 11 tn I is l< lireast ; 1 In I is 
Ij,^ inches; J In II is -j-j inch; i\ i> halfway between 11 and I ; K tn L is :!'/. inches; square 
down frnm L tn Incate M; apiil}' the blade measure from 11 tn 1. which is \'A inches and 
s(|uare up; N is halfway between 11 and L; N to O is 1^ inches; from A tn -.'I is tlie same 
distance as fmm II In ( ) ; ilraw a line I'rnni () tn?l. 

Frnm A in T is (i.)s inches; T tn U is 1 j/^ inches; draw a line from A tn U; from A In 
V is !(, breast; square up frnm \ tn Incate \V ; draw a line from 34 'ii*-"'i below VV to 1'; 
frnm O to S is '/^ breast; square dnwn frnm S and shai)e the back; fmm Al tn 1 is J/ waist; 
square down from L to locate 1 1 ; frnm II tn \2 is y, inch less than /i breast; from 4 back to 
2T is 2J4 inches; from X to R and '.'1 tn ".'11 is the waist measure net; point Y is halfway 
between X and :^'.i ; s{|uare dnwn frnm \' ; pnint '/. is halfway between Y and M. 

From () tn K is I'i breast; I tn 'i is vi inch; pnint :! is '/> inch abn\e the waist line; 
shape tlie sidelmdv; pnint "i is halfway between M and I; pnint (1 is halfway between L 
and I; draw a line frnm "i llimugh II up; fr(Mii A tn W and L tn 1 is the strap measure 
plus ■' I inch; draw a line fmni ' to 1'; frnm T tn ■.';! is -Jx incli less than W In 1'; di'np the 
siiniilder '.s inch at 'i.'l and shape the slmnldcr and armscve. 

Square forwards frnm 7 l)y line "i-li ; from T In !i is '., breast plus J4 inch; draw a 
rounding tine frnm !> tn II; frnni It tn Id is the depth nf the gorge desired; 7 tn S is j,s 
breast; draw a line fmm S thrnugh 10 and shape tlie gorge. 

Frnni II tn I.-) is 1^4 inches; 4 to Fi is the same; iinw suppress the waist l)etwccn vJS 
and :i\ the same ;imnunt as the distance is l)etweeii Y and '!'■> and linisli the up[ier part 
of tiie cnat. 

THE SKIRT. 

In this case the skirt is made as follows; frnm JM tn III is '1 inch always; fnim 1!) to 
".'•) is 'j indeiitati(_iii, in this case I inch; draw a line frnm '!0 [o V and square down to oO ; 
frnm Y to ;!li is !.l inches; :ii) tn :!i is I ' _> inches; draw a line fmm 22 through ;^)l down; 
if the indentation had been nnrnial, the skirt would be cut in the fnllnwing manner; M-Y 
wniili] be the natural waist line tn sipuire from; [)lace the square to Al-^" ami square down; 
this wnuld produce pnint 2.j ; 2.") tn 2ii is I'l inches; if ynu drew the line frnm 22 through 
2(1 it wnuld gi\e \-nu line :12 an.l in that case the skirt wnuld ha\e less spring than it has nnw. 

I'rom 22 to :!:> is '4 inch more than irom S to 17 ; 12 tn 18 is the same distance as 22 
to X] : draw a line fmiu .'l-'l tn S; jjnint 1(1 is 5s inch belnw pniiu :1 ; shajie the friuit edge 
and skirt as slinwn and Iniish. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



81 




DIAGRAM 38. 



DIAGRAM ;il) 



S3 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 40 
FROCK COAT (Continued) 

This coat is the same as shown on diagram 39 with the exception that the indenta- 
tion is 1 incli, therefore the seat is flat and the skirt is cut as follows: from M to 19 is J^ 
inch always; 19 to 20 is 3/2 indentation, in thi ^ case ^/^ inch; place the square to points 
20-Y and square down; from Y to 25 is 9 inches; 25 to 26 is IjA inches; finish your 
skirt as usual. 

The normal indentation is lyj inches, therefore when the indentation is normal, there 
is no need to go up-from M to 19, .)4 inch because the normal line is the waist line. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 83 




DIAGRAM 40. 



84 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 

DIAGRAM 41 

THREE-BUTTON FROCK FOR STOUT FIGURE. 

The measurements are as follows: 

Indentation 1^ inches Strap 13 inches 

Scye depth 9^ inches Overshoulder 18^ inches 

Waist length 16^ inches Blade 13>-j inches 

Fashionable waist length 18J/ inches Breast 40 inches 

Full length according to style Waist 40 inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus ^ inch ; C is natural waist length ; D is fashionable 
waist length ; E is full length ; F is halfway between A and B ; G is halfway between A 
and F ; square out from G, F, B, C, D and E. 

From C to R is 1/2 indentation ; draw a straight line from A through R to Q and square 
down; this locates H; from H to I is ^ breast; I to J is ]^ inches; J to 14 is }i inch; 
square up from 14; K is halfway between H and I ; K to L is S'^ inches; square down from 
L to locate M ; apply the blade measure from H to L which is 13^/^ inches and square up ; N 
is halfway between H and L; from N to O is lj4 inches; from A to 24 is the same distance 
as from H to O ; draw a line from O to 84. 

From A to T is 6^ inches ; T to U is V/i inches ; draw a line from A to U ; from A to 

V is Vb breast ; square up from V to locate W ; draw a line from }i inch below W to P ; 
from Q to S is ^ breast ; square down from S and shape the back. 

THE SIDEBODY 

F>om X to Y is 1>4 inches; from 1 to 2 is ^4 inch; from O to 36 is A breast; point Z 
is halfway between Y and M ; point 3 is yi inch above the waist line ; shape the side- 
body as shown; from M to 4 is ^ waist; square down from 4; this locates 11; from 11 to 
12 is y2 inch less than % breast; 12 to 34 is, 3,^ inch; draw a line from 3 to 34; now 
draw a straight line from 22 to 12 ; point 35 is where the two lines cross ; cut out a small 

V at 35 ; hollow the waist seam slightly from 3 to 35 as shown in this diagram. 

In cutting out this coat, the space between 12 and 34 is cut out and this is what produces 
the fulness over the stomach; point 5 is halfway between M and 4; point 6 is halfway 
between L and J; draw a line from 5 through G up; from A to W and L to 7 is the strap 
measure plus J4 inch ; draw a line from 7 to P ; from 7 to 23 is ^ inch less than W to P ; 
23 to 38 is }i inch ; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forwards from 7 by line 5-(5, also square forwards from 6 by the same line : 
this locates 37 ; from 7 to 9 is % breast ; 9 to 10 is the same ; from 7 to 8 is ^ breast ; draw 
a line from 8 through 10 and shape the gorge; from 4 back to 27 is 1% inches; from Z to 
Y, X to R and 27 to 21 is the waist measure net ; shape the side of forepart ; add from 37 
to 15, 1J4 inches and from 4 to 13 the same and shape the front edge. 

THE SKIRT 

Square down from Y; from Y to 25 is 9 inches; 25 to 26 is 1>4 inches; draw a line 
from 22 through 26 down ; from 22 to 32 is J^ inch more than from S to 17 ; from 34 to 18 
is the same distance as 22 to 32; draw a line from 32 to 18; point 16 is yg, inch below point 
3 ; shape the skirt and finish, rounding the latter ^ inch at 26. 

The checking off of the strap and the over shoulder measure plus 1 inch should be done 
in ihf frock coats as in all other coats. 



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17 32 E 



DIAGRAM 41. 



8G AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 42 
THREE BUTTON FROCK FOR A CORPULENT FIGURE 

The measurements are as follows : 

Indentation !]/> inches Strap 13 '^ inches 

Scye depth 1)^ inches (,)\ersliiiulder 1!J inches 

Natural waist length 1? inches Blade 11 inches 

Fashionable waist length 18^ inches Breast 4"^ inches 

Full length, whatever the style calls for. Waist i-j inches 

Scjuare down and out from A. 

P""rom A to B is the scye depth plus y^ inch ; C is natural waist length ; D is fashion- 
able waist length; E is full length; F is halfway between A and B ; G is halfway between 
A and F; square out from ("i, F, B, C, D and E. 

I''rom C to R is -yi inch or }j the indentation ; draw a straight line from iV through K 
to Q; this locates H; from H to I is i/< breast; I to J is l^^ inches; J to 14 is % inch; 
square up from 14; K is halfway between H and I; K to L is 3^^. inches; square down 
from L to locate M ; apply the blade measure from H to L which is 14 inches and square up ; 
N is halfway between H and L; N to O is 1J4 inches; from A to 24 is the same distance as 
from H to (J ; draw a line from O to 24. 

From A to T is (ifs inches ; T to U is J ;54 inches ; draw a line from A to U : from A to 
V is ^ breast ; square up from V to locate W" ; draw a line from ^ inch below W to P : 
from O to S is 34 breast ; square down from S and shape the back. This being a corpulent 
coat, the waist suppression is made as follows : from M to 4 is J^ waist ; square down from 4 ; 
this locates 11; from 11 to 13 is 14 inch less than H breast; 12 to 34 is •)4 inch; from 4 
back to 27 is 1^4 inches; from X to R and 27 to Y is the waist measure net; this leaves 
nothing to come out at Z. 

Square down from Y; from 1 to 2 is .;4 inch; point Z is halfway Ijetween Y and M: 
from O to 36 is A breast; draw a line from 36 to Z; point 3 is yi inch aljove the waist line: 
shape the sidebody with a slight hollow from 22 to 3, also draw a line from 3 to 34; now 
draw a straight line from 22 through 12; this locates 35; cut out a small V at 35; shape the 
bottom of the forepart the same as shown on diagram 41. 

Point 5 is halfway between M and 4; point 6 is halfway between L and J; draw a line 
from 5 through 6 up; from A to W and L tn 7 is the stra]) measure plus ^/\ inch; draw a line 
from 7 to P ; from 7 to 23 is ys inch less than from W to P ; lower the shoulder ;!^ inch at 23 
and shape the slioulder and armscye. 

Square forwards from 7 by line 5-6 also square forwards from 6 by the same line; this 
locates 37; from 7 to 9 is % breast; draw a rounding line from fl to 37; from 9 to 10 is the 
depth of the gorge desired; 7 to 8 is % lireast ; draw a line from 8 thrcjugh 10 and shape 
the gorge; from 37 to 15 is 1J4 inches; 4 to 13 is the same. The skirt is made in the same 
manner as shown in diagram 41 with the exception that at 31 add on about ^ inch or the 
amount that the front part and sidebody o\'erlap at 3. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



s? 




DIAGRAM 42. 



88 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 43 
ENGLISH WALKING FROCK WITH SACK FRONT 

The nieasureinents are as follows : 

Indentation 1 >4 inches Strap 12f4 inches 

Scye depth 9J^ inches Overslioulder 18 inches 

Natural waist length Wyi inches Blade i'iji inches 

Fashionable waist length 18^4 inches Breast -VJ inches 

Full length 37 inches Waist Sbyi inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus J4 '"^''i '• C is natural waist length ; ,D is fashion- 
able waist length; E is full length; F is halfway between A and B; (i is halfway between 
A and F ; square out from G. F, B, C, D and E. 

From C to R is 1/2 indentation ; draw a straight line from A through R to Q and 
square down; this locates H; from H to I is yi breast; I to J is IJ/2 inches; J to 14 is % 
inch ; K is halfway between H and I ; K to L is Syi inches; s'quare down from L to locate 
M ; apply the blade measure from H to L which is 13J4 inches and square up ; N is halfway 
between H and L; N to O is 1J4 inches; A to 24 is the same distance as from H to O ; 
draw a line from O to 24. 

From A to T is 6^, inches; T to U is 1J4 inches; draw a line from A to U ; A to V is 
'A breast; square up from V to. locate W ; draw a line from J4 inch below W to P ; Q to 
S is i/^ breast; square down from S and shape the back; X to Y is 1J4 inches; 1 to 2 is ^ 
inch ; O to K is A breast ; point Z is halfway between Y and M ; point 3 is J^ inch above 
the waist line ; shape the sidebody as shown. 

From M to 4 is J/2 waist; square down from 4; this locates 11; from 11 to 12 is '}4 inch 
less than % breast ; point 5 is halfway between M and 4 ; point 6 is halfway between L 
and J ; draw a line from 5 through Gup; A to W and L to 7 is the strap measure plus -}i 
inch ; draw a line from 7 to P ; 7 to 23 is ^ inch less than the back shoulder width ; 
drop the shoulder }i inch at 23 and shape the shoulder and armscye ; square forwards 
from 7 by line 5-6 ; 7 to 9 is '4 breast plus % inch ; draw a rounding line from 9 to 
14; 9 to 10 is the depth of the gorge desired; 7 to 8 is J^ breast; draw a line from 8 to 
10 and shape the gorge; 14 to 15 is 1% inches; 4 to 13 is the same; 4 back to 27 is 3J4 
inches; Z to Y, X to R and 27 to 21 is the waist measure net ; shape the side of forepart ; 
draw a line from 3 to 12; this locates K!. 

THE SKIRT 

Square down from Y to 25, 9 inches; 25 to 26 is 1>4 inches; draw a line from 22 
through 26 down; 22 to 19 is % inch more than from S to 17 ; 12 to 18 is the same dis- 
tance as S to 17 ; shape the skirt from 22 to 16 ; cut out a fish at 16; leave the front and 
skirt whole and finish. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



8!) 




DIAGRAM 43. 



:'0 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 44 
SINGLE-BREASTED STRAIGHT-FRONT FROCK 

The measurements are as follows ;- 

Indentation IJ/^ inches Strap 13 inches 

Scye depth 9^ inches Overshonlder 1834 inches 

Waist length 17 inches Blade 13J-2 inches 

Fashionable waist length 18}^ inches Breast 40 inches 

Full length, whatever is desired. Waist 37 inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus 34 inch; C is natural waist length; D is fashion- 
able waist length; E is full length; F is halfway between A and B; G is halfway between 
A and F; scjuare out from G, F, B, C. D and E. 

From C to R is 34 indentation; draw a line from A through R to Q and square down; 
from H to I is 34 breast; I to J is I34 inches; J to 14 is ^ inch; K is halfway between H 
and I ; Iv to L is 3^ inches ; sqtiare down from L to locate M ; apply the lilade measure 
from H to L which is I334 inches and square up ; N is halfway between H and L ; N to O 
is 134 inches; from A to 24 is the same distance as from H to O ; draw a line from O to 24. 

From A to T is 6% inches; T to U is 13-4 inches; draw a line from A to U ; A to \' 
is /i breast ; square up from V t(_i locate \\' ; draw a line from '4 mch below ^\' to P ; O 
to S is 34 breast; square down from S and shape the back; X to Y is 1 34 inches; square 
down from Y ; 1 to 2 is J4 i'T-'h ! O to K is i'if breast ; point Z is halfway between Y and M ; 
point 3 is 34 inch above the waist line ; shape the sidebody. 

From M to 4 is 34 waist; square down from 4; this locates 11 ; from 11 to 12 is 34 inch 
less than Vb breast; point 5 is halfway between M and 4; point 6 is halfway between L and 
J ; draw a line from 5 through 6 up ; from A to W and L to 7 is the strap measure plus 
•)4 inch ; draw a line from 7 to P ; 7 to 23 is ^ inch less than the back shoulder width ; drop 
the shoulder ^ inch at 23 and shape tlie shoulder and armscye ; square forwards from 7 
by line 5-6; 7 to D is /^ breast plus 34 inch; draw a rounding line from 9 to 14; from 9 to 
10 is Ve brea.st ; 7 to 8 is 3/^ breast; draw a line from 8 to 10 and shape the gorge; 14 to 15 
is 134 inches; 4 to 13 is the same; place the straight edge to line 4-12 and make a mark at 29. 

Sweep from 12 forwards and backwards pivoting at 29; shape the bottom of lorepart 
from 3 hollowing it slightly into the sweep at 12; from 4 back to 27 is 234 inches; Z to 
Y, X to R and 27 to 21 is the waist measure net ; shape the side of forepart. 

THE SKIRT 

If a close-titting skirt is desired, it should be made the same as in the cutaway frock; 
the skirt shown here is a slightly draped skirt and is made as follows; draw a straight 
line from 20 into the sweep at 12 ; square down from 20 by that line ; from 20 to 25 is 
9 inches; 25 to 2G is I34 inches; draw a line from 20 through 26 down. 

From 20 to 18 is 34 inch more than from S to 17 ; 12 to 28 is the same distance as 20 
to 18; square down from the front edge by the waist line; .shape the bottom of skirt 
and round the side ^^ inch at 26. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



01 




DIAGRAM 14 



92 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 

DIAGRAM 45 
SINGLE-BREASTED STRAIGHT-FRONT FROCK FOR A STOUT FIGURE 

The measurements are as follows: 

Indentation I3/2 inches Strap 13y^ inches 

Scye depth 9^ inches Overshoulder 19 inches 

Natural waist length 17 inches Blade 14 inches 

Fashionaljle waist length 183/2 inches Breast 42 inches 

Full length according to style. Waist 42 inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus ^ inch ; C is natural waist length ; D is fashionable 
waist length ; E is full length ; F is halfway between A and B ; G is halfway between A and 
F; square out from G, F, B, C, D and E. 

From C to R is 1/2 indentation; draw a line from A through R to Q and square down; 
from H to I is J4 breast; I to J is 1^ inches; J to 14 is -% inch; square up from 14; K is 
halfway between H and I ; K to L is Syi inches ; square down from L to locate M ; apply 
the blade measure from H to L which is 14 inches and square up ; N is halfway between H 
and L; N to O is 1^4 inches; from A to 24 is the same distance as from H to O ; draw 
a line from O to 24. 

From A to T is 6^ inches ; T to U is 1^ inches ; draw a line from A to U ; A to V is 
Vb breast ; square up from V to locate W ; draw a line from ^ inch below W to P ; Q 
to S is ^ breast; square down from S and shape the back; from X to Y is 1^ inches; 
square down from Y ; from 1 to 2 is ^ inch ; O to Z is A breast ; point 22 is halfway 
between Y and M ; point 3 is 3^ inch above the waist line ; shape the sidebody. 

From M to 4 is J^ waist; square down from 4; this locates 11; from 11 to 12 is yi 
inch less than Vb breast; 12 to 15 is }i inch; point 5 is halfway between M and 4; point 
6 is halfway between L and J ; draw a line from 5 through 6 up ; from A to W and L to 7 
is the strap measure plus ^ inch; draw a line from 7 to P ; from 7 to 23 is ^ inch less 
than the back shoulder width ; drop the shoulder % inch at 23 and shape the shoulder and 
armscye. 

Square forwards from 7 by line 5-6, also square forwards from 6 by the same line ; this 
locates 32; from 6 to 9 is Vb breast; draw a rounding line from 9 to 32; from 9 to 10 is 
Vb breast ; 7 to 8 is ^/^ breast ; draw a line from 8 through 10 and shape the gorge ; 32 to 
19 is 134 inches; 4 to 31 is the same; shape the front edge from 19 through 31; from 4 
back to 27 is 1% inches; 22 to Y, X to R and 27 to 21 is the waist measure net; shape the 
side of forepart. 

Now draw a line from 3 to 15 also draw a straight line from 20 to 12 ; point 16 is where 
the two lines cross; cut out a small V at 16 ; place the straight edge to points 12-4 and 
make a mark at 29; from 12 back to 30 is 2^4 inches; sweep from 30 forwards to 13 pivot- 
ing at 29; shape the bottom of forepart hollowing the line slightly between 3-16. 

THE SKIRT 

Place the square to line 20-16 and square down to 25; 20 to 25 is 9 inches; 25 to 26 is 
IJ/2 inches; draw a line from 2ii through 26 down; from 20 to 18 is % inch more than from 
S to 17 ; from 13 to 28 is the same distance as 20 to 18; square down from 13 by the waist 
line; shape the bottom of skirt and add ^ inch rounding at 26. In cutting out this skirt, 
there is nothing taken out between 12 and 15; the skirt is cut straight through from 20 to 
16, 30 and 12 to 13. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



93 




28 



DIAGRAM 45 



!U AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 

DIAGRAM 46 
CLERGYMAN'S STRAIGHT-FRONT FROCK 

The measurements are as follows: 

Indentation IJ/2 inches Strap V^■}^ inches 

Scye depth 9>^ inches Oversh( lulder 18 inches 

Natural waist length ". . 16^4 inches Blade 13% inches 

Fashionable waist length 18>1. inches Breast 39 inches 

Full length, 40 inches or according to style Waist 3."i>< inches 

Scjuare down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus 3/4 incli; C is natural waist length; D is fashion- 
able waist length ; E is full length ; F is halfway between A and B ; G is halfway between A 
and F; square out from G, F, B, C, D and E. 

From C to R is >4 indentation ; draw a straight line from A through R to Q and square 
down; from H to I is y, breast; I to J is IjA inches; J to M is % inch; K is halfway 
between H and I ; K to L is 3% inches ; square down from L to locate M ; apply the blade 
measure from H to L which is 13J4 inches and square up; N is halfway between H and L; 
N to O is 154 inches; A to 24 is the same distance as H to O ; draw a line from O to 24. 

From A to T is Gyg, inches ; T to U is lyi inches ; draw a line from A to U ; A to V 
is '/, breast ; square up from V to locate W ; draw a line from % inch below \V to P ; O 
to S is }i breast; square down from S and shape the back; from X to Y is 1J4 inches; 
square down from Y; from 1 to 2 is }i inch; O to K is A breast; point 22 is halfway be- 
tween Y and M ; 34 is }4 inch above the waist line ; shape the side body. 

From M to 36 is ^ waist ; square down from 36; this locates 11; 11 to 12 is j', inch 
less than Vb breast; point 5 is halfway between M and 36; point 6 is halfway between L and 
I ; draw a line from 5 through 6 u]) ; from A to W and L to 7 is the strap measure plus .}4 
inch ; draw a line from 7 to P ; from 7 to 23 is % inch less than the back shoulder width ; 
shape the shoulder and armscye ; square forwards from 7 by line 5-6 ; from 7 to !• is ).'. of the 
neck size plus •)4 inch ; draw a line from 9 through 14 and 36 

From 9 to 10 is Ih breast; 7 to 8 is >^ breast; draw a line from 8 to 10 and shape 
the gorge; now add for the left front from 10 to 30, >4 inch; 14 to 32 and 36 to 35 the 
same; now add to the right front from 30 to 29, Ij/i inches; 32 to 19 and 35 to 31 the 
same ; shape the front edge ; from 36 back to 27 is 254 inches ; from 22 to Y, X to R and 
27 to 21 is the waist measure net; shape the side and bottom of forepart. 

THE SKIRT 

If a close-fitting skirt is desired, proceed as follows: from Y to 25 is 9 inches; 25 
to 26 is iy2 inches; draw a line from 20 through 26 down; 20 to 18 is % inch more than 
from S to 17; 12 to 28 is the same distance as 20 to 18; point 3 is ^ inch below 34; shape 
the skirt and finish, rounding it ys, inch at 26. 

This coat may also be used for a Knights Templar coat. If a slightly flaring skirt 
is desired, the skirt may be made as shown on diagram 44. 

THE COLLAR 

The standing collar is made as follows: draw a line from 10 through 7; from 10 to 16 
is y the shirt collar size plus 1 inch, i. e., if the collar size is 15>4 inches, J-S of which 
would be iy%, the distance from 10 to 16 would be 85^. Shape the collar from 16 into the 
gorge and square up from Hi to 1 -"i by that line; from 16 to 15 is the heighth of the coUar 
desired plus two seams; shape the c(_illar as shown. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



95 



«)A 




dia(;k.\ai iG 



96 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 

DIAGRAM 47 
CASSOCK 

The meaburements are as follows : 

Scye depth 'J}i inches Strajj l^yi inches 

Natural waist length 17 inches Overshoulder 17^ inches 

Fashionable waist length 1(SJ{, inches Blade 13 inches 

Full length 50 inches Breast 38 inches 

(These coats are supposed to rearb ilonn to the feeti. Waist H^/2 inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus ^4 inch ; C is natural waist length ; D is fashionable 
waist length ; E is full length ; F is halfway between A and B ; G is halfway between A and 
F; square out from G, F, B, C, D and E. 

From C to R is ^ inch ; draw a straight line from A through R to Q and from y to 
E ; from H to I is 1/2 breast ; I to J is IJ/2 inches ; J to 14 is ^ inch ; K is halfway between 
H and I ; K to L is 3}i inches ; square down from L to locate M ; apply the blade measure 
from H to L which is 13 inches and square up; N is halfway between H and L; N to O is 1^ 
inches; A to 24 is the same distance as from H to O; draw a line from O to 24. 

From A to T is 6}i inches; T to U is lyi inches; draw a line from A to U ; A to V is 
% breast; square up from V to locate W ; draw a line from J4 inch below W to P; from 
Q to S is 3J4 inches; place the straight edge to points A-S and draw a line through to 17; 
shape the back; from X to Y is 1J4 inches ; square down from Y; from 1 to 2 is }^ inch; 
point Z is halfway between Y and M ; point 3 is J4 inch above the waistline; shape the side- 
body. 

From M to 4 is J-^ waist; scpiare down from 4; this locates 11; from 11 to 12 is ^4 
inch less than % breast; draw a straight line from 12 through 3; point 5 is halfway between 
M and 4; point 6 is halfway between L and J; draw a line from 5 through 6 up; from A to 
\V and L to 7 is the strap measure plus j-^ inch ; draw a line from 7 to P ; 7 to 23 is % inch 
less than the back shoulder width : drop the shoulder ^ inch at 23 and shape the shoulder 
and armscye. 

Square forwards from 7 by line 5-6 ; from 7 to 9 is >^ of the collar size worn plus ^ inch ; 
draw a rounding line from 9 to 14 ; from 9 to 10 is Ye breast; 7 to 8 is J/^ breast; draw a 
line from 8 to 10 and shape the gorge; now add for the left front from 10 to 29, yi inch; 
14 to 15 and 4 to 13 the same; for the right front add from 29 to 30, IJ/2 inches and from 
13 to 36 the same; square down from 13 and 36 by the waistline. 

From 4 to 27 is 2 inches; from Z to Y, X to R and 27 to 21 is the waist measure net: 
shape the side of forepart, cutting out a small V in what will be the skirt as shown ; 22 is 
about 1J4 inches below 3; now place the square to line Y-12 and square down to 25; from 
Y to 25 is 9 inches; 25 to 26 is lyi inches; draw a line from Y through 26 down; Y to 18 
is 14 inc-h more than from S to 17 ; 12 to 28 is the same distance as 19 to 18 ; shape the Ijottom. 

Now add on to the back as from Q to 23 and E to 34, 41/2 to 5 inches ; also add from S 
to 31 and from 17 to 32 the same amount as has been added from Q to 33 ; add from Y to 1(> 
the same amount as has been added from S to 13, all the way down the same. These 
additions are to be made up into three inverted plaits, one in the center and one on each side. 

THE COLLAR 

Draw a straight line from 10 through 7; the length of the collar should be IJ^ sizes 
larger than the shirt collar; shape the collar as usual. 



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6a()-i3' 




DIAGRAM 47 



'•'^< AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 48 
CLERGYMAN'S STRAIGHT-FRONT SACK 

'J'his coat is to be easy and not too shapely. 

The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth 9 inches Blade 12}4 inches 

Waist length 16J/S inches Breast '. 38 inches 

Full length 33 inches Waist 34J/> inches 

Strap 12 inches : \ Seat 40^ inches 

Overshoulder :. . 17 inches': 

.Square down and out from A. 

F'rom A to B is the scye depth plus y4 inch ; C is waist length ; ,C to D is 6 inches ; A to 
E is full length; F is iialfway between A and B: G is halfway between A and F; square 
out from G, B, C, D and E. 

From C to 2 is ^S indentation ; square down from 2 ; shape the center back from F to 3 ; 
from 1 to H is 3/2 breast; H to I is 1^ inches; I to J is ^4 inch; K is halfway between 1 
and H ; K to L is 3yi inches ; square down from L to locate Q ; apply the blade measure 
from 1 to L which is I214 inches and Square up ; M is halfway between 1 and L; M to N is 
1^ inches; square up from N; N back to 4 is 14 inch; 22 to 7 is the same distance as 1 
to 4 ; draw a line from 4 to 7 ; N to P is A breast ; A to 8 is 6}i inches ; 8 to 9 is IJ/S inches ; 
draw a line from A to 9. 

From A to 10 is 'A breast; square up from 10 to locate 11 ; draw a line from J4 'ic'i 
below 11 to O and shape the back; Q to S is ^,2 waist; point T is halfway between Q and 
S; point U is halfway between L and I; draw a line from T through U up ; A to 11 and L 
to V is the strap measure plus >)4 inch ; draw a line from V to O ; V to Z is % inch less than 
the Ijack shoulder width ; drop the shoulder /s inch at Z and shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Scjuare forwards from V by line T-U ; V to W is 14 of the collar worn plus ■'4 inch; 
draw a rounding line from W to J : W to X is Vt, breast ; V to Y is J^ breast ; draw a line 
from Y to X and shape the gorge; X to 26 on the left front is 3.-2 inch; J to 12 and S to 13 
are the same; from Q to R is ^4 inch, J^^ ,the indentation ; place the square to point. R-S and 
square down, also square down from 13. 

From 6 back to 16 is 2J<2 inches; from 14 to 3 and 15 to 20 is the seat measure; 20 
back to 19 is 2 inches ; square up from ii9 to locate 18 ; draw a line from 18 through 20 
down and shape the side of forepart; from 18 to 21 is the same distance as 5 to 7 ; 31 to 32 
is }i breast; shape the bottom of forepaKt; now add to the right front from 26 to 27, IJ/ 
inches; 13 to 28, 13 to 29 and 32 to 17 are'all the same. 

\ 

- THE COLLAR 

Draw a line from X thrtiugh Y to 23 ; from X to 23 is two sizes more than the size collar 
worn, /'. e., if the size collar worn is 15 inches, one-half of which would be 7 J/^ inches, this 
would make the distance from X to 3, 8^4 inches : shape the collar from 23 into the 
gorge line ; square up from 33 to 24 by that line : 33 to 24 is the heighth of the collar 
desired plus two seams and from 36 to 25 is the same ; shape the collar and finish. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



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DIACl^IAM IS 



100 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 

DIAGRAM 49 
DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK 

The measurements arc as follows: 

Indentation 1 >1> inches Strap 1 2)4 inches 

Scye depth '•*}'2 inches Uvershoulder 18 inches 

Natural waist length -l(i)l> inches Blade 13^ inches 

Fashionaljle waist length 18^4 inches Breast 39 inches 

Full length, whatever style calls for Waist 35}4 inches 

Square down and out from A. ^^■kii^''^ ~ 

From A to B is the scye depth plus ^ inch ; C is natural waist length ; D is fashionable 
waist length ; E is full length ; F is halfway l)etween A and B ; G is halfway between A 
and F; square out from G, F, B, C, D and E. 

From C to R is j/2 indentation; draw a line from A through R to Q and square down; 
this locates H; H to I is j/2 breast; 1 to J is 1^ inches; J to 14 is 1 inch; K is halfway 
between H and I ; K to L is 3}4 inches ; square down from L to locate M ; apply the blade 
measure from H to L which is 13j4 inches and square up; N is halfway between H and L 
N to O is l>it inches; A to 2i is the same distance as H to O; draw a line from O to 24 
A to T is (>}^ inches; T to U is 1^ inches; draw a line from A to U ; A to V is 'A, breast 
square up from V to locate W ; draw a line from }i inch below W to P; from Q to S is j^ 
breast; square down from S and shape the l)ack. 

THE SIDEBODY 

From X to Y is 1J4 inches; square down from Y; from 1 to 2 is % inch; O to K 
is A breast; 22 is halfway between Y and M; point 3 is 3,^ inch above the waistline; 
shape the sidebody. 

THE FOREPART 

From M to 4 is y^ waist; square down from 1; this locates 1] ; from 11 to 12 is J/2 
inch less than Vt: breast; point 5 is halfway between M and 4; point (i is halfway between 
L and J; draw a line from 5 through 6 up; from A to \V and L to 7 is the strap measure 
plus )4 inch; draw a line from 7 to P ; from 7 to 23 is % inch less than W to P; shape 
the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forwards from 7 by line 5-6; 7 to 9 is 'f, breast plus )4 inch; add J4 inch for 
seam at 4 and shape the front edge from !i through H down; from 9 to 10 is Vo breast; 
7 to S is y^ breast; draw a line from S to 10 and sha])e the gorge; 4 back to 27 is 2J4 
inches; 22 to Y, X to R and 27 to 21 is the waist measure net; shape the side of forepart. 

THE REVER 

Draw a straight line close to the front edge as at 12-4 up; sweep from K) to 29 pivoting 
at 12; sweep from 12 forwards and backwards pivoting at 29; make the width of the rever 
according to the style desired. 

THE SKIRT 

Draw a straight line from 12 to 20 and if a slightly flared skirt is desired, square down 
from 20. If more flare is desired, proceed as follows: go up from 20 to 30, ^ inch more 
or less according ti) the amount of drapery desired; draw a line from 16 to 30 and square 
down by tliat line to 25; from 30 to 25 is 9 inches; 25 to 26 is 1^ inches; draw a line 
from 30 through 26 down; from 30 to 18 is ^ inch more than from S to 17; from 12 to 28 
is the same distance as 30 to 18; square down from b! by the waist line; finish the skirt 
as shown, rounding it ^s inch at 26. 



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101 




DIAGRAM 41) 



102 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 

DIAGRAM 50 

DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK FOR A STOUT FIGURE 

The measurements are as follows; 

Indentation 1^ inches Strap 13i4 inches 

Scye depth 9^ inches Overshoulder 1!) inches 

Natural waist length 17 inches Blade J 4 inches 

Fashionable waist length 18% inches Breast 42 inches 

[■'nil length whatever style calls for Waist 42 inches 

Square down and (lUt from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus }i inch ; C is natural waist length ; D is fashionable 
waist length ; E is full length ; F is halfway between A and B ; G is halfway between A and 
F; square out from ("., F, B, C, D and E. 

From C to R is '/> indentation ; draw a line from A through R to Q and square down ; 
from H to I is J/2 breast ; I to J is ]>4 inches; J to 14 is 1 inch : square up from 14; K is half- 
way between H and I ; K to L is 3^ inches ; square down from L to locate M ; apply the 
blade measure from H U> L which is 14 inches and square up; N is halfway between H and L: 
N to O is ]% inches: from A to 24 is the same distance as FT to O; draw a line from O to 24. 

From A to T is G}i inches; T to U is IjA inches; draw a line from A to U ; from A to 

V is Vb breast ; square up from V to locate W ; draw a line from ^ inch below W to P ; O to 

S is }i breast; square down from S and shape the back; from X to Y is 1J4 inches; square 

down from Y ; 1 to 2 is }i inch ; O to Z is t'i breast; point 22 is halfway between Y and M ; 

point 3 isT^ inch above the waistline; shape the sidebody. 

I'^rom M to 4 is 3/4 waist; square down from 4; this hjcates 11; from II to .12 is ]< 
inch less than % breast; 12 to 15 is ->4 inch; draw a line from 3 to 15; jioint 5 is half- 
way between M and 4; point G is halfway between L and J ; draw a line from 5 through 
(i up ; from A to W and L to 7 is the strap measure plus ■>:J inch ; draw a line from 7 
to P ; from 7 to 23 is }i inch less than the back shoulder width ; siiape the shoulder and 
armscye: square forwards from 7 by line 5-(5 ; from 7 to .9 is 14 breast plus }i inch; also 
square forwards from 6 by the same line; this locates 30; add j4 i"ch at 4 and shape 
the front edge from 9 through 30 and 4 down; from 9 to 10 is % breast; 7 to 8 is % 
breast; draw a line from 8 to 10 and shape the gorge; from 4 back to 27 is 1}^ inches; 
from 22 to Y, X to R and 27 to 21 is the waist measure net; shape the side of forcjiart. 
Draw a straight line from 20 to 12; this locates point 16; cut out a small V at 10; 
hollow the bottom of forepart slightly between 3 and 16. 

THE REVER 

Draw a straight line from 19 up to 29; sweep from 10 to 29 ])i\()iing at I'.i ; from 
12 back to 32 is 2J/ inches; sweep from 32 forwards to 13 ])i\'oting at 2!l ; shape the 
bottom of forepart; make the width of the rever according to style. 

THE SKIRT 

Square down from 20 by line 16-20; from 20 to 25 is 9 inches; 25 to 26 is 1 1/$ inches; 
draw a line from 20 through 26 down; from 20 to 18 \s% inch more than from S to 17; 
]!) to 28 is the same distance as 20 to 18; square down from 13 by the waist line; finish 
the skirt rounding it ^ inch at 26. 



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DIAGRAM 50 



104 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 

DIAGRAM 51 
DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK FOR A CORPULENT FIGURE 

The measurements are as follows: 

Indentation .- I3/2 inches Strap i'-^H inches 

Scye depth 9^ inches Overshouklcr 19J4 inches 

Natural waist length 17 inches Blade 14J4 inches 

Fashionable waist length 18^ inches Breast 43 inches 

Full length according to style Waist 46 inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus ^ inch ; C is natural waist length ; D is fashionaljle 
waist length ; E is full length ; F is halfway between A and B ; G is halfway between A and 
F; square out from G, F, B, C, D and E. 

From C to R is J4 indentation; draw a line from A tinough R to Q and square down; 
from H to I is J4 breast; I to J is lyi inches; J to 14 is 1 inch; square up from 14; K is 
halfway between H and I ; from K to L is 3J4 inches ; square down from L to locate M ; 
apply the blade measure from H to L which is M% inches and square up; N is halfway be- 
tween H and L; from N to O is 1J4 inches; from A to 24 is the same distance as from H 
to O ; draw a line from O to 34. 

From A to T is 6^ inches; T to U is 1/2 inches; draw a line from A to U ; from A 
to V is }^ breast ; square up from V to locate W ; draw a line from j4 inch below W to P ; 
from Q to S is 5^ breast; square down from S and shape the back; from M to 4 is I/2 waist; 
square down from 4; this locates 11; from 11 to 12 is J/^ inch less than % breast; 13 to 15 
is J4 inch. 

From 4 back to 37 is \}i inches; from X to R and 37 to Y is the waist measure net; 
this waist being 3 inches larger than the breast, there is nothing to^ come out between the 
sidebody and the forepart ; square down from Y ; from 1 to 2 is }i incli ; O to Z is i'= breast ; 
point 3 is halfway between Y and M ; points 21 and 22 are ^ inch above the waistline ; shape 
the sidebody and also the side of forepart, overlapping it between 31 and 33 about ^ or ^ 
inch ; point 5 is halfway between M and 4 ; G is halfway between L and J ; draw a line from 5 
through 6 up. 

From A to W and L to 7 is the straj) measure plus % inch ; draw a line from 7 to P ; from 
7 to 33 is }i inch less than the back shoulder width ; shape the shoulder and armscye; square 
forwards from 7 by line 5-6 ; square forwards from 6 by the same line ; this locates point 30 ; 
add }i inch to 4 for a seam and shape the front edge from 9 through 30 down. 

Notice: — In this case the distance Ijetween the line squared down from 4 and the front 
edge is about 3^ inch ; this amount is given there so as to compensate for the V that is being 
cut out from the forepart and also to give the front edge a regular line. 

From 9 to 10 is % breast; 7 to 8 is J4 breast; draw a line from 8 to 10 and shape the 
gorge ; draw a line from 32 to 15 ; now place the square to point 20 and draw a line to 19 ; 
point 16 is where the two lines cross ; hollow the Ijottom of forepart slightly between 22 and 
16, and cut out a small V at 16. 

THE REVER 

Draw a straight line from 19 up to 39 ; sweep from 10 to 29 pivoting at 19 ; from 12 back 
to 32 is 2J/2 inches; sweep from 32 forwards to 13 pivoting at 39; shape the bottom of 
forepart ; make the width of the rever according to style. 

THE SKIRT 

Square down from 30 by line 16-30 ; from 20 to 25 is 9 inches ; from 35 to 26 is l^A inches : 
draw a line from 30 through 36 ; square down from 19 and 13 by the waist line ; from 30 to 18 
is j4 inch more than from S to 17 ; from 19 to 28 is the same distance as 20 to 18; sweep 
from 32 to 34 pivoting at 28 ; shape the top of skirt from 30 through 16 to 34 ; finish the skirt 
rounding it % inch at 26. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



105 




DIAGRAM :.l 



106 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 

DIAGRAM 52 
EVENING DRESS COAT 

Tlie measurements are as follows: 

Indentation V/2 inches Strap 13 inches* 

Scye depth 9 inches U\ershoul(lcr 17 inches 

Natural waist length 16J/' inches Blade 12>-1 inches 

Fashionable waist length I834 inches Breast 30 inches 

Full length whatever style calls for Waist 32 inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus J4 inch; C is natural waist length; U is fash- 
ionable waist length; E is full length; F is halfway between A and B; (j is halfway be- 
tween A and F ; square out from G, F, B, C, D and E. 

From C to R is ^ indentation; draw a line from A through K to Q and square down; 
from H to I is ^ breast; I to J is 1]/^ inches; K is halfway between H and I; K to L is 
31/ inches; square down from L to locate M; apply the blade measure from H to L 
which is \2y, inches and square up; N is halfway between H and L; N to O is I14 inches; 
A to 28 is the same distance as from H to O ; draw a line from O to 28. 

From A to T is G^ inches; T tn U is 1 ■/, inches; draw a line from A to U; A to V 
is Yb breast ; square up from V to locate W ; draw a line from ^4 i"*-"li below W to P ; from 
O to S is Yf, breast or may be made smaller if so desired ; square down from S and shape 
the hack; from X to Y is 1J4 inches; square down from Y. 

From 1 to 2 is -yj, inch ; (J to K is 1*5 breast ; point Z is halfway between Y and M ; point 
3 is >4 inch above the waist line ; shape the sidebody ; from M to 4 is 3/2 waist ; square 
down from 4; this locates II ; from U to 20 is ^ inch less than ^i breast; point 5 is halfway 
between M and 4 ; point 6 is halfway between L and J ; draw a line from 5 through 6 up ; 
A to W and L to 7 is the strap measure plus ^ inch ; draw a line from 7 to P ; 7 to 23 is ^ 
inch less than the back shoulder width ; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forwards from 7 by line 5-G ; 7 to 9 is Vt breast; 4 back to 13 is V/2 inches; 
shape the front edge from through J and 13 down; draw a line from 3 to 20 and shape the 
bottom of forepart; from 9 to 10 is !6 breast; this may be made more or less according to 
style; 7 to 8 is J/^ breast; draw a line from 8 to 10 and shape the gorge. 

THE REVER 

Draw a straight line from 14 through 27 up; make the width of the rever according to 

style and also make the length of the rever to correspond with the front and skirt strap; 

from 4 back to 30 is 2>4 inches; Z to Y, X to R and 30 to 21 is the waist measure net; 
shape the side of forepart. 

THE SKIRT 

From Y to 25 is 9 inches; 25 to 20 is 1 >{. inches; draw a line from 24 through 20 down; 
34 to 19 is 14 inch more than from S to 17; from 20 to 29 is the same distance as from 24 
to 19; draw a line from 19 to 29; from 3 to 13 is y^ inch; shape the top of the skirt from 
24 through 12 and drop it 54 inch at 14; from 14 to 15 is l.)4 inches; from 15 to 16 is Vi 
of the distance of 14 to 24. 

From 19 to 18 is the same distance as 15 to 16; draw a line from 18 to 16; shape the 
skirt and finish rounding it ^ inch at 26. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 1<>' 



22(S^ 




DIAGRAM 5a 



108 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 

DIAGRAM 53 
EVENING DRESS COAT FOR A STOUT FIGURE 

The measurements are as follows : 

Indentation IJ/^ inches Strap 13 inches 

Scye depth 9^ inches Overshoulder 18^4 inches 

Natural waist length 16% inches Blade 13J/2 inches 

F"ashionable waist length ISyi inches Breast 40 inches 

Full length according to style Waist 40 inches 

Square dmvn and out from A. 

From A to B is tiie scyc deptli jjIus >4 inch ; C is natural waist length ; D is fashionable 
waist length ; E is full lengtii ; F is halfway between A and B ; G is halfway between A antl 
F; square out from G, F, B, C, D and E. 

From C to R is y, indentation ; draw a straight line from A through R to Q and square 
down; H to I is yi breast; I to J is Ij/S inches; K is halfway between H and I; K to 
L is 31/2 inches; square down from L to locate M; api)ly the blade measure from H to 
L which is 13J^ inches and square up; N is halfway between H and L; N to O is 1'/^ 
inches; A to 28 is the same distance as H to O; draw a line from O to 28. 

From A to T is ii}i inches ; T to U is 1 >^ inches ; draw a line from A to U ; A to V 
is Vb breast; square up from V to locate VV ; draw a line from )4 '"^^li 'je'tjw W to P ; from 
Q to S is "/^ breast; square down from S and shape the back; from X to Y is 1% inches; 
square down from Y ; from 1 to 2 is }i inch ; O to K is A breast ; point Z is halfway 
between Y and M ; draw a line from K to Z ; point '■'> is >2 inch above the Waist line; shape 
the sidebody. ! 

From M to 4 is >^ waist; square down from J ; this locates 11; from' 11 to 14 is j/l 
inch less than % breast; 14 to 15 is }i inch; draw a line from 3 to 15; point 5 is halfway 
between M and 4; point (! is halfway between L and J ; draw a line from 5 through 6 up; 
from A to W and L to 7 is the strap measure plus -j-:^ inch; draw a line from 7 to 1'; from ; 
to 23 is ys inch less than the back shoulder width; shape the shoulder and'armscye. 

Square forwards from 7 by line 5-0; 7 to !) is U. I)reast ; from I back to 3 is 13,2 inches; 
shape the front edge fnini '.» tlirnugh 1 and Kidown; from 'J to Hi is ' 1. I)re:^st ; 7 to 8 is V^ 
breast; draw a line from 8 to 10 and shape the gorge; from 4 back to 30 is 1 .>lj inches; from Z 
to Y, X to R and 30 to 21 is the waist measure net ; shape the side of forepart ; draw a straight 
line from 24 to 14; point 12 is where the two lines cross; cut out a small V at 12; point 27 
is ^ inch below point .! ; shape the top of skirt from 24 through 27 and 12, dropping it y 
inch at 20; square down from Y; Y to 25 is 1) inches; 25 to 26 is l^^ inches; draw a 
line from 24 through 20 down; 24 to 19 is % inch more tiian from S to 17; 15 to 29 
is the same distance as 24 to 19 ; draw a line from 19 to 29 ; from 20 to 22 is ly inches ; 12 to 
10 is the same; draw a line from Hi to 22 : from 20 to 12 is !^ the distance of 20 to 24; 19 to 18 
is the same distance as 20 to 12; draw a line from 18 to 10; shape the skirt and finish, round- 
ing it ys inch at 26. 

THE REVER. 

The rever is made in the same way as described in the previous diagram. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



]()!! 




DIAGRAM .'):! 



no AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 54 
EVENING DRESS CQAT WITH REVER'ANO SKIRT STRAP IN ONE. 

The measurements are as follows; 

Indentation 1^4 inches Strap , 12J4 inches 

Scye tlepth 9^ inches (Jvershoiilder l'i}i inches 

Waist length IGyi inches Blade 13 inches 

Fashional)le waist lengtli 18^ inches Breast 38 inches 

Full length according to style. Waist . 34}4 inches 

S(|uarc down and out from A. 

iM'om A to B is the scye depth plus j4 i'l*-"'! ; C is natural waist length ; L.) is fashioniible 
waist length; E is full length; F is halfway between A and B; G is halfway between A and 
F; square out from G, I-^, B, C, D and E. 

From C to R is ^ indentation; draw a line from A through R to Q and scpiare down; 
from II to 1 is 1/ lireast ; I to J is 1^ inches; K is halfway between H and I ; K to L is SJ^ 
inches; square down from L to locate M ; apply the blade measure from H to L which is 13 
inches and square up; N is halfway between H and L; N to O is 1J4 inches; A to :i8 is the 
same distance as from II to O; draw a line from O to 28. 

From A to T is 6)4, inches; T to U is 1^^ inches; draw a line from A to U; A to \" 
is Vi breast; square up from V to locate W; draw a line from 34 '""-'h lielnw W to P; from 
Q to S is 3^ breast; square down from S and shape the back; from X to Y is \y4 inches; 
square down from Y; from 1 to 2 is % inch; O to K is A breast; point Z is halfway be- 
tween V and M; point 3 is 3 2 inch abo\-e the waistline; shape the sidebody. 

From M to 4 is 34 waist ; square down from 4; this locates 11 ; 11 to 16 is 3^ inch less 
than Vi breast; point 5 is halfway between M and 4; point 6 is halfway between L and J; 
draw a line from .j through (i up; from A to W and L to 7 is the strap measure plus 34 
inch ; draw a line from 7 to P ; frcini 7 to 23 is % inch less than W to P ; shape the shoulder 
and armscve ; square forwards frcmi 7 by line 5-6; from 7 to is }{, Ijreast ; 4 back to 13 is 
lyi inches; draw a line from D through J and 13 down. 

From 4 back to 30 is 2^4 inches; from Z to Y, X to R and 30 to 31 is the waist measure 
net; shaiic the side of forepart; from .\ to \V and 7 tn ITi is the length (if the waistcoat plus 
1 inch; siiape the bottom of forepart, hollowing it slightly from .'! to 15; tiiis locates 20; 
make the distance from '2(i tn 22 alxiut I '4 inches and shape the lapel and fmnt edge ac<-ord- 
ing to style. 

THE SKIRT. 

From Y to 25 is 9 inches; 25 to 26. is 1 3/'2 inches; draw a line from 34 through 20 down; 
from 2 J to 10 is 3/4 inch more than from S to 17; from 10 to 2!) is the same distance as 
from 21 to 10; draw a line from 10 to 29; from 20 to 13 is '^ the distance of from 20 
to 24; from 19 to 18 is the same distance as from 20 to 12; draw a line from 18 to 12; 
from 3 to 27 is ^ inch ; shape the top of skirt from 24 through 27, dropping it }i inch at 
12. Finish the skirt rounding it ->s inch at 26. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



111 




#26 



DIAGRAM 54 



11^ AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 55 

This coat is the same style as" Diagram 54, except that it is for a Stout Figure. 

The measurements are as follows : 

Indentation 1^ inches Strap 13JX inches 

Scye depth • 9^ inches Overshoulder 19 inches 

Natural waist length 17 inches Blade 14 inches 

Fashionable waist length 18^ inches Breast 43 inches 

Full length whatever style calls for Waist 42 inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus J4 inch ; C is natural waist length ; D is fashionable 
waist length ; E is full length ; F is halfway between A and B ; G is halfway between A and 
F; square out from G, F, B, C, D and E. 

From C to R is J^ the indentation ; draw a line from A through R to Q and square 
down; H to I is J/^ breast; I to J is IJ^ inches; K is halfway between H and I ; K to L is 3}4 
inches; square down from L to locate M; apply the blade measure from H to L which is 
14 inches and square up; N is halfway between H and L; N to O is l}i inches; A to 28 js 
the same distance as H to O ; draw a line from O to 28. 

From A to T is 6^ inches; T to U is I3/2 inches; draw a line from A to U ; from A 
to V is % breast; square up from V to locate VV; draw a line from %. inch below W to P ; 
Q to S is >^ breast ; square down from S and shape the back ; from X to Y is 1% inches ; 
square down from Y ; from 1 to 2 is J4 '"'-"h ; O t" ^ '^ ''- l^reast ; point Z is halfway between 
Y and M; point 3 is J4 inch above the waistline; shape the sidebody. 

From M to 4 is ^ waist; square down from 4; this locates 11; from 11 to 14 is J/^ 
inch less than Ye breast; point 5 is halfway between M and 4; point 6 is halfway between L 
and J ; draw a line from 5 through 6 up ; from A to W and L to 7 is the strap measure plus 
}i inch ; draw a line from 7 to P ; from 7 to 23 is % inch less than W to P ; shape the shoul- 
der and armscye; square forwards from 7 by line 5-6; from 7 to 9 is ^ breast; from 4 back 
to 13 is 134 inches; draw a line from 9 through J and 13 down. 

From 9 to 10 is 14, breast; 7 to 8 is 34 breast; draw a line from 8 to 10 and shape the 
gorge; from 4 back to 30 is 1J4 inches; fromZ to Y, X to R and 30 to 21 is the waist meas- 
ure net ; shape the side of forepart ; from A to W and 7 to 15 is the length of the waistcoat 
plus 1 inch; shape the bottom of forepart from 3 to 15. 

THE SKIRT. 

From Y to 25 is 9 inches; 25 to 36 is 1>^ inches; draw a line from 24 through 26 
down; from 24 to 19 is % inch more than from S to 17 ; from 14 to 29 is the same distance as 
34 to 19 ; draw a line from 19 to 39 ; from 30 to 12 is Ki the distance of from 30 to 24 ; 19 to 18 is 
the same distance as from 20 to 12 ; draw a line from 18 to 13 ; from 3 to 27 is ^ inch ; shape 
the top of skirt and finish. 

NOTE: — The only difference between this coat and the previous coat is that this coat 
being for a stout figure, has a small V cut out at 12, and the other dress coat has a fish cut out. 



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DIAGRAM 55 



114 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 

DIAGRAM 56 

SINGLE-BREASTED OVERCOAT. 

This ovefcoat is neither a shapely overcoat nor a loose overcoat ; it is just a plain coat 
which never is out of style. The measurements for overcoats are taken over the waistcoats 
in all cases, the same as for any other coat and the additions are made in the cutting. 

The measurements as taken over the waistcoat are as follows: 

Scye depth 9 inches Blade IS^/^ inches 

Waist length 1 t>K> inches Breast 3(i inches 

Full length whatever style calls for Waist 33 inches 

Strap 12 inches Hip 38 inches 

Overshoulder 17 inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus 34 i'l*-"'^ ; B to C is % inch ; this is the difference be- 
tween the undercoat and the overcoat ; from A to D is the waist length plus •;4 inch ; D to 
23 is 6 inches; A to E is full length; F is halfway between A and C; G is halfway between 
A and F ; square out from G, B, C, D, 23 and E. 

From D to 2 is 3/ indentation; E to 22 is the same; this not being a shapely coat, you 
do not swing that line out at 22 ; shape the center of back from F to 2 and down ; this locates 
1 ; from 1 to 21 in this case is lyi inches. If the material for the overcoat is to he extremely 
heavy, the distance from 1 to 21 may be as much as 2 inches and no more; from 3 to 25 is 
the same distance as from 1 to 21 ; from 21 to H is 3/ of 3t) breast: H to I is 1 .;-4 inches; I 
to J is ^ inch; K is halfway between 21 and H; K to L is Sy, inches; square down from 
L to locate Q. 

Apply the blade measure from 21 to L which is I234 inches and square up; go liack from 
L to 15, 34 inch or Vi of the distance of from 1 to 21 ; this gives 'A of the increase to the fore- 
part and Vi of the increase from the front of the armscye backwards; square up from 15; point 
M is halfway between 1 and 15; from M to N is I34 inches; square uj) from .\ ; from N to 4 
is 1 inch ; from N back to P in this case is % inch; from 22 to 2S is the same distance as from 
1 to P. This distance may be made greater if so desired. 

Draw a line from 28 to P; from A to 8 is 6^ inches; S to is 134 inches; draw a line 
from A to 9 ; from A to 10 is Vb breast; square up from 10 to locate 11 ; draw a line from 
34 inch below 11 to O and shape the back; from O to S is '/^ of 32 waist; point T is halfway 
between O and S; point U is halfway between L and I; draw a line from T through V up. 

From A to 11 and L to V is the strap measure plus ^ inch; draw a line from V to O; 
from V to Z is ;Hi i'i^"'i '^^^ than the l^ack shoulder width; shape the shoulder and armscye; 
square forwards from \' by line T-U ; from Vto W is 'A brea.st plus 3^ inch ; draw a rounding 
line from W to J ; make the depth of the gorge from W to X according to style; V to Y is 3-s 
l)reast; draw a line from V tlu-ough X and shape the gorge. 

If the material is of a medium weight the distance from J to 12 is \}^ inches; if the ma- 
terial is heavy weight the distance may be 2 to 2>4 inches but no more ; if the material is extra 
light weight. 13^ inches is enough; from S to ]3 is the same distance as J to 12. 

From Q to R is 34 the indentation; draw aline from R through S; square down from 13 
by line R-S ; this locates points 27 and 16; there being no under-arm fish in this coat, the 
distance from 27 to 7 is the same as from H to 12; from Ifl to 25 and 7 to 20 is the hij) 
measure; from 20 back to li) is 2 inches; square up from 10 to 5; draw a line from 5 through 
20 down and shape the side of forepart ; from 5 to 29 is the sanie distance as from 5 to 28 ; 
from IG to 17 is % breast; shape the bottom of forepart and finish. 



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DIAGRAM 56 



ic AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 57 
SINGLE-BREASTED SHAPELY OVERCOAT. 

The measurements as taken over the waistcoat are as follows : 

Indentation 1^ inches Overshoulder 17^ inches 

Scye depth 9% inches Blade 13 inches 

Waist length 17 inches Breast 38 inches 

Full length whatever style calls for. Waist 34J/^ inches 

Strap l^yi inches Hip iOyi inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus j/4 inch ; B to C is ^ inch ; A to D is the waist length 
plus % inch; D to 23 is 6 inches; A to E is full length; F is halfway between A and C; 
(i is halfway between A and F; square out from G, B, C, D, 23 and E. 

From D to 2 is ^ the indentation; E to 22 is 3/2 the distance of D to 2; shape the center 
of back from F to 2 and 2 to 22 ; from 1 to 21 is lyi inches; 21 to H is i/^ breast; H to I is 
1^ inches; I to J is ^ inch ; K is halfway between 21 and H ; K to L is 3^ inches ; square 
down from L to locate Q ; apply the blade measure from 21 to L which is 13 inches and square 
up. 

iM-om L back to 15 is J/ inch; square up from 15; point M is halfway between 1 and 15; 
from M to N is 1J4 inches; square up from N; from N to 4 is 1 inch; point P is halfway be- 
tween M and N ; from 22 to 28 is the same distance as from ] to P ; this may be made wider if 
so desired. Draw a line from 28 to P; from A to S is Gfg inches; 8 to 9 is 1^ inches; draw a 
line from A to 9 ; from A to 10 is li of 38 breast ; square up from 10 to locate 11 ; draw a line 
from y^ inch below 11 to O and shape the back. 

From Q to S is 3/2 of 34 J4 waist; point T is halfway between Q and S; point U is half- 
way between L and I ; draw a line from T through U up ; from A to 11 and L to V is the strap 
measure plus ^4 inch; draw a line from V to O; from V to Z is }& inch less than 11 to O; 
shape tlie shoulder and armscye; square forwards from V l)y line T-U ; V to W is 'A 
i)reast plus ^ inch ; draw a rounding line from W to J ; from W to X is % breast or according 
to style; V to Y is ji breast; draw a line from Y through X and shape the gorge; from S 
to 13 is 1% inches; J to 12 is the same. 

From Q to R is J/4 the indentation; draw a line from R liiruugli S; square down from 
i:i l)y line R-S; this locates point 27-16; from 27 to 7 is J/^ inch less than from H to 12; 
from 3 to 25 is the same distance as from 1 to 21 ; from 19 to 25 and 7 to 20 is the hip 
measure; from 20 back to 6 is 2 inches; square up from 6 to locate 18; draw a line from 
18 through 20 down and shape the side of forepart. 

From 18 to 29 is the same distance as from 5 to 28; 16 to 17 is j/s breast; shape the 
l)ottom of forepart and finish. Cut out an underarm fish and lower the side of forepart as 
from 31 to 32, J^ the amount that has been taken out at the fish. 



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)i.\(,K.\M .-.r 



118 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 58 

This coat is made the same as shown on diagram J? with the exception that from J to 13 
is '^yi to 3-)4 inches and from S to 13 is the same- This would set the buttons 7 to 7^/2 inches 
from tiie edLrc. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



;i:) 




DIAGRAM 58 



120 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 59 
SHAPELY OVERCOAT FOR A STOUT FIGURE. 

The measurements as taken over the waistcoat are as follows: 

Indentation IJ/^ inches Overshoulder 19 inches 

Scye depth 9^ inches Blade 14 inches 

Waist length 17 inches Breast 43 inches 

Full length according to style. Waist 43 inches 

Strap 13j4 inches Hip 44 inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus 34 inch ; B to C is .)4 inch; A to D is waist length 
plus ^ inch; D to 23 is 6 inches; A to E is full length; F is halfway between A and C; G 
is halfway between A and F; square out from G, B, C, D, 23 and E. 

From D to 2 is J4 indentation; shape the center of back from ¥ to 2 and square down 
from 2; this locates 1-3; from 1 to 21 is IJ/2 inches; 2 to 24 and 3 to 25 are the same; from 
21 to H is 1/2 of 42 breast; H to I is lj4 inches; I to J is % inch; square up from J; K is 
halfway between 21 and H; K to L is 3J/2 in>-hes; square down from L to locate Q; apply 
the blade measure from 21 to L which is 14 inches and square up ; from L back to 15 is }^ inch 

Square up from 15; point M is halfway between 1 and 15; M to N is 1J4 inches;' square 
up from N ; from N to 4 is 1 inch ; N to P is 'A inch ; 22 to 28 is the same distance as from 1 
to P; draw a line from P to 28 ; from A to 8 is (i^ inches; 8 to 9 is 1 J/ inches; draw a line 
■from A to 9 ; A to 10 is K of 42 breast; square out from 10 to locate 11; draw a line from 
J4 inch below 11 to O and shape the back. 

From O to S is y, waist; point T is halfway between Q and S; point U is halfway be- 
tween L and I ; draw a line from T through U up; from A to 11 and L to V is the strap 
measure plus ^}^ inch ; draw a line from V to O ; from V to Z is ^ inch less than the back 
shoulder width; shape the shoulder and arm scye; square forwards from V by line T-U ; 
V to W is % breast plus ^ inch ; square out from U by the same Ime ; this locates 26 ; draw 
a line from W to 26 ; from W to X is J^ breast ; \' to Y is j/^ breast; draw a line from Y to X 
and shape the gorge. 

From 26 to 12 is 1% inches; S to 13 is the same; from Q to R is 3^2 indentation; draw 
a line from R through S; square down from 13 by line R-S and shape the front edge; from 
S back to 14 is 2^/^ inches; from 27 to 7 is J4 inch less than 13 to 14; from 5 to 24 and 14 
to 18 is the waist measure net; square down fmni 18 to locate 6; from 6 to 20 is 2 inches; 
draw a line from 18 through 20 down and shape the side of forepart; from 18 to 29 is the 
same distance as from 5 to 28. 

From 16 to 17 is J/g breast; draw a straight line from 2!) to 17; now apply the hip 
measure from the side of backpart to 25 and from 7 to 19 : this leaves a surplus from 19 to 
20 in this case of I54 inches; split the forepart down to the pocket; open the pocket to 
the front V allowing it to open under the arm I14 inches the same as shown on diagram 
18 and 19. 



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l-.'l 




22 K 



DIAGRAM 59 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 60 
DOUBLE-BREASTED OVERCOAT FOR STOUT FIGURE. 

'I'lic nieasurenients fur this coat arc the same as gi\ eii for iliayraiii .")'-i. The coat is made 
in tlie same way with the exceptiuii uf the l)Utton-staiul which is: fmm '.'G to I'.' is :!'j inches, 
or ;j-)4 inches; S to 13 is the same; square down fn.>m l.'i hy hne R-S ; from S to It is 2}^ 
inches; 27 to "i is y^ inch less than 1:1 to 14. 

Finish the coat in the same manner as described for diagram 59. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



123 




82 £ 



DIAGRAM 60 



124 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 61 

SINGLE-BREASTED LOOSE-HANGING OVERCOAT. 

This overcoat is neither a shapely coat iinr a liux o\ ercoat, Ijut is just between the two. 

The measurements as taken over the waistcoat are as follows: 

Scye depth 9 inches Overshoulder 17 inches 

Waist length 16i/^ inches Blade 12i/^ inches 

Full length according to style Breast 36 inches 

Strap 18 inches Waist 32 inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus Yn inch ; B to C is ^ inch ; A to D is waist length, 
plus ^ inch; D to 23 is G inches; A to E is full length; F is halfway between A and C; 
G is halfway between A and F; square out from G, B. C. D, 23 and E. 

F'rom D to 2 is ^ iticli ; draw a line from I'' llimugli '.' dnwn; this locates 22; square 
forwards from 32; from 1 to 21 is IJo inches or may be more if so desired; 21 to H is ^ 
breast; H to I is 1J4 inches; I to J is ^ inch ; K is halfway between 31 and H; K to L is 
3J/^ inches ; square down from L to locate Q ; apply the blade measure from 21 to L which 
is 12I/J inches and square up; from L back to 15 is Yz inch. 

Point M is halfway between 1 and 15; from M to N is \Y inches; square up and down 
from N ; this locates point 19 ; from 19 to 6 is 1 ' j inches ; 19 to 20 is 3J/2 inches or make the 
distance from 6 to 20, 5 inches; draw a line from N through G ; this locates 5; from 4 to 25 
is Y2 inch ; draw a line from 25 through 20 dow n : from 35 to 18 is the same distance as from 
35 to 5. 

From A to 8 is 6^^ inches; 8 to 9 is 1J4 inches; draw a line from A to 9 ; from A to 10 
is % breast; square up from 10 to locate 11; draw a line from Ya nich below 11 to O and 
shape the back. This being a draped coat, we lengthen the front edge in the following 
manner: frnni 3 to S is J/^ waist; point T is halfway between Q and S; point U is halfway 
between L and 1 ; draw a line from T through U up. 

From A to II and L to V is the strap measure plus J4 inch; draw a line from V to O ; 
from V to Z is -l^ inch less than the back shoulder width ; shape the shoulder and armscye ; 
square forwards from \' by line T-U ; V to W is M breast plus .)4 inch; draw a rounding 
line from W to J ; W to X is /^ breast ; V to Y is J^ breast ; draw a line from Y to X and 
shape the gorge; J to 12 is \^/^ inches; S to 13 is the same; Q to R is 1 inch; draw a line 
from R through S; square down from 13 by line R-S ; this locates 16; from 16 to 17 is Yi 
breast; shape the front edge, bottom of forepart and finish. 



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DIAGRAM 61 



126 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 62 

STRAIGHT-HANGING OVERCOAT FOR A STOUT FIGURE. 

The measurements as taken nvev the waistcoat are as follows: 

Scye depth 10 inches Overshoulder 

Waist length J7>4 inches Blade 

Full length whatever style calls for. Breast 

Strap ] o)4 inches Waist 



Ill 


'4 


inches 


14 
4:! 
i:'. 


'-4 


inches 
inches 
inches 



Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is scye depth plus 14 inch ; B to C is % inch ; A to D is waist length plus 
34 inch ; D to 23 is 6 inches ; A to E is full length ; F is halfwa}- between A and C; G is 

halfway between A and F; square out from G, B, C, D, 23 and F. 

""I 
From D to 2 is Jq inch; draw a line from F through 2 down; this locates 22; square 

forwards from 22 and shape the center of back; from 1 to 21 is 1 '4 or l^ inches; 21 to H 

is 3^2 breast; H to I is IJ/ inches; I to J is ^ inch; K is halfway between 21 and M; K to 

L is 33/2 inches ; square down from L to locate Q; apply the blade measure from 21 to L 

which is ] 1)4 inches and square up. 

From L back to 15 is y^ inch or '4 the distance of from 1 to 21 ; square up and down 
from ];j; this locates point 3; point M is halfway between 1 and 15; M to N is 1)4 inches; 
square U]i and down from N ; frcim N to -I is 1 inch ; from A to 8 is (i-j/ji inches; 8 to ',) is \y2 
inches; draw a line from .\ to '.( ; frum A to 10 is '1, breast; square up from 10 to locate 11 ; 
draw a line from i^^ inch below 11 tn ( ) and shape the back. 

I'rom 19 to t! is 1 _)!) inches; 1!) to 20 is 3J/2 inches; draw a line from 1 througli (> down; 
this locates point 5; from 4 to 25 is J/ inch; draw a line from 25 through 20 down; from 
25 to 18 is the same distance as 25 to 5; hollow the siile of the forepart about J4 ''i^"'' 'it the 
waist; from 3 to S is 3/. waist; point T is halfway between Q anil S; jjoint L' is halfway be- 
tween L an<l I : draw a line from T through U up. 

From A to 1 1 and L to \' is the strap measure jilus Vi inch; draw a line from \' to (); 
from \' to Z is }i inch less than the back shoulder width ; shape the shoulder and armscye ; 
square forwards from V by line T-U ; \' to VV is 't, breast plus y> inch ; draw a rounding line 
from W to J ; \\' to X is the dejith of gorge desired; V to Y is ^ breast; draw a line from 
Y through X and shape the gorge. 

From Q to R is 1 inch; draw a line from R through S; from S to 13 is 1-^4 inches; J 
to 12 is the same ; scpiare down from 13 liy line R-S; this locates 10; from H> to 17 is y^ 
breast; draw a straight line from 17 to IS. 

After the forepart is cut out you may split the forepart as from P down to the pocket, 
also open up the pocket to 7 and split the front from 7 to 24; manipulate the forepart the 
same as shown on diagrams 18 and U»; but in a case of this kind you may add to the side of 
the forepart 1)^ to 2 inches the same as shown on diagram 05, so as not to reduce the 
drapery of the coat. 



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DIAGRAJM 62 



128 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 63 
DOUBLE-BREASTED ULSTER. 

The measurements as taken over the waistcoat are as follows: 

Scye depth 9}i inches Overshoulder 17^ inches 

Waist length 17 inches Blade 13 inches 

Full length 47 inches Breast 38 inches 

Strap 13>4 inches Waist 34 inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus y4 incli ; B to C is % inch; A to D is the waist 
length plus ^ inch ; A to E is full length ; F is halfway between A and C ; G is halfway 
between A and F; square out from G, B, C, D and E. 

From D to 8 is ^ inch; draw a line from F through 2 down; this locates 23; from 1 to 
;i is ly^ inches; 3 to H is 3/2 breast; H to I is 1>4 inches; 1 to J is ^ inch; K is halfway 
between 3 and H; K to L is 3J/2 inches; square down from L; apply the blade measure 
from 3 to L which is 13 inches and square up; from L to 15 is yi inch; point M is halfway 
between 1 and 15; from M to N is 1J4 inches ; square up and down from N; from N to P 
is 1 inch ; from P to 4 is ^ inch. 

From A to 8 is 6J^ inches; 8 to 9 is lj/2 inches; draw a line from A to 9 ; from A to 
1(1 is 'h breast; square up from 10 to locate 1 I ; draw a line from 11 to O ; from 19 to 6 is 
1 inch; draw a line from N through 6 down; this locates point 9 ; shape the back from A to 
1 1, 11 to O, O to 4 and from 4 through G dow;i to !i ; (I to 30 is 3>4 inches; draw a line from 
4 through 20 down; hollow the side seam at 2(i about ^ inch. 

From Q to S is J4 waist; point T is halfway between Q and S; point U is halfway be- 
tween L and I; draw a line from T through U up; from A to 11 and L to V is the strap 
measure plus % inch; draw a line from V to O ; from \' to Z is ^ inch less than 11 to O; 
shape the shoulder and armscye ; square forwards from V by line T-U ; from V to W is Mi 
Ijreast plus yi inch; draw a rounding line from W to j ; from W to X is Ve breast; V to Y 
is % breast ; draw a line from Y to X and siiape the gorge. 

From Q to R is'j4 inch; draw a line from R through S; from S to 13 is 3^ inches; J 
to 12 is the same; square down from 13 by line R-S ; this locates point 16; from 16 to 17 is 
v!^ breast ; shape the front edge. Now add }i inch as from 4 to 5 and 9 to 10 and reshape 
the backpart ; from 4 to 18 is the same length a- from 5 to 10 ; shape the bottom of forepart 
and finish. 

THE COLLAR. 

Draw the crease line from 12 through 27 up; this coat is to button up high or to roll 
down to the second button; the collar is cut so as it will button easily in either case; from 
\' to 21 is the same width as from A to 11 on the backpart; from 21 to 23 is 1%. inches and 
from 33 to 24 is the same; shape the crease line from 23 through V to 27. 

From V to 25 is }i inch; place the square to points 33-25 and square out to 26; from 
•>;\ to 26 is the width of the collar desired; shape the collar and finish. 



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139 




DIAGRAM 63 



i:50 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 64 

SINGLE-BREASTED BOX OVERCOAT. 

The measurements as taken over the waistcoat are as follows: 

Scve depth !' inches ■ Overshoulder K inches 

Waist length 16>4 inches Blade 1^/^ inches 

Full length whatever style calls for. Breast ^i'jj/l inches 

Strap 13 inches Waist 32 inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is scye depth plus y^, inch; B to C is % inch ; A to D is waist length plus 
J4 inch; E is full length; F is halfway between A and C; G is halfway between A and F; 
square out from G, B, C, D and E. 

From D to 2 is ^ inch; draw a straight line from F through 2 down; this locates 22; 
square forwards from 22 by that line; from 1 to 21 is 3 >^ inches; 21 to H is ^ breast; H 
to I is lj/2 inches; 1 to J is ^ inch; K is halfway between 21 and H; K to L is 31/2 inches; 
square down from L to locate Q; apply the blade measure from 21 to L which is 12}^ 
inches and square up; L back to 15 is Y2 inch; square up and down from 15; this locates ;5. 

I'oint M is halfway between I and 15; M to N is xy^, inches; square up from N to lo- 
cate U; yV to 8 is ^y% inches; 8 to D is 1}2 inches; draw a line from A to 'J; from A to 10 is 
M breast; square up from 10 to locate 11 ; draw a line from 11 to O and shape the back; point 
4 is where the armhole crosses the breast line; square down from 4 to locate IS); 11) to G is 
ly^ inches; (i to 20 is 3^ inches; draw lines from 4 through (i to 7 and from 4 through 20 
to 18. 

From o to S is ^4 waist ; point T is halfway between Q and S ; point U is halfway be- 
tween Land 1 ; draw a line from T through U up; from A to II and ]^ to V is the strap 
measure plus 1 inch ; draw a line fromV to O; V to Z is ^ inch less than 11 to O ; shape the 
shoulder and armscye as shown; from 3 up to R is 1^ inches; from S to Hi is ]i/^ inches; 
I to 12 is the same; draw a line from R to 13 and square down; this locates point l(i ; from l(i 
"to 17 is 34 breast; shape the front edge ; square forwards from V by line T-U ; V to W is 'A 
breast plus y^ inch ; draw a rounding line from W to J. 

From W to X is \<> breast; V to Y is J^ breast; draw a line from Y to X and shape tiie 
o-oro-e; now add to the backpart from 4 to P, 1J4 inches and from 7 to 5 the same and reshape 
the back as shown; from I to IS is the same distance as from I' to .") ; shape tiie bottom of 
forepart and finish. 



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131 




DIACIRAM Gi 



;i3 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



s 



DIAGRAM 65 
BOX OVERCOAT FOR A STOUT FIGURE. 

The measurements as taken over the waistcoat are as follows : 

Scye depth i)>4 inches Overshoulder 18>4 inches 

Waist length 17 inches Blade ISJX inches 

Full length whatever style calls for. Breast 40 inches 

Strap 13 inches Waist 40 inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus J4 inch ; B to C is ^4 inch ; A to D is waist length 
plus }i inch; E is full length; F is halfway between A and C; G is halfway between A and 
F ; square out from G, B, C, D and E. 

From D to 2 is ^ inch; draw a line from V through 2 and shape the center seam; this 
locates 22 ; square forwards from 22 by that line ; 1 to 21 is 1^:^ inches ; 21 to H is 3^ breast ; 
H to I is iy2 inches; I to J is % inch; K is halfway between 21 and H; K to L is 3^1 inches; 
square dowri from L to locate Q; apply the ijlade measure from 21 to L which is 13^ 
inches and square up. 

From L back to 15 is y^ inch; square up and down from 15; this locates point 3; point 
M is halfway between 1 and 15; M to N is I34 inches; square up from N; from A to 8 is ' 
(i}i inches; 8 to 9 is l^^ inches; draw a line from A to i) ; from A to 10 is 'A breast; square 
up from 10 to locate 11; draw a line from 34 i'i<-"li below ]] to U ; shape the upper part of 
the back as from A to ]], 11 to O and O through 4. 

Point 4 is where the armhole crosses the breast line ; square down from 4 ; this locates 
19; from 19 to 6 is 1>4 inches; 6 to 20 is 3}i inches; draw line from 4 through 6 down; 
this locates 7; also draw a line from 4 through 20 down ; from 3 to S is J/^ waist; point T is 
halfway between Q and S; i)oint U is halfway ))etween L and I ; draw a line from T through 
U up. 

From A to n and L to V is the strap measure plus 1 inch ; draw a line from V to O; from 
\' to Z is ^ inch less than the back shoulder width; shape the shoulder and armscye ; 
square forwards from V by line T-U ; V to W is % breast plus ^4 inch ; draw a line from VV 
to J ; W to X is the depth of the gorge desired ; V to Y is y^ breast ; draw a line from Y to X 
and shape the gorge; J to 12 is ] J4 inches; S to ]3 is the same; Q to R is IJ^ inches; square 
down from 13 by line R-S ; this locates 16. 

From 16 to 17 is y^ breast ; from 4 to 14 is the same length as from 4 to 7 ; shape the 
bottom of forepart; now add to the back from 4 to P and 7 to 5 ly inches and reshape the 
back. In a coat of this kind it is not absolutely necessary to split the front for the sake of 
taking out the front fulness, but if so desired.it may be done as follows: split the forepart 
as from 28 to 23, 23 to 24 and from 24 to 26 ; overlap it the same way as shown on dia- 
gram 66, but in which case it is well to add as from 14 to 18 about as much as will be 
taken out between 26 and 27; this is done so as the drapery should not be lessened. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



13(1 = 




DIAGRAM 65 



134 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 66 

After the forepart has been split as shown on diagram 65, place the two parts of the 
forepart together so that they should touch at l)-K; open from A to B say about 1 or 
134 inches allowing it to overlap from G to H and reshape the bottom. Cut out a small 
V as at C so that when the two seams are taken out the lower edge of the pocket should not 
be fuller than the upper edge. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



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DIAGRAM 66 



136 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 67 

This diagram is the same as ciiagram G5 with the exception that this is a Double-l'reasted 
Overcoat, and the addition to the front edge should be made as follows: from 25 to 12 should 
be J/4 of the button lap and from S to 13 the same. 

Finish the coat in tlie same manner as shown on diagrams 05 and 66. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



137 




DIAGRAM 67 



138 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 

DIAGRAM 68 
SINGLE-BREASTED FROCK OVERCOAT. 

The measurements as taken o\'er the waistcoat arc as follows: 

Indentation 1 J^ inches Strap 12J/2 inches 

Scye depth 'J}i inches 0\ ershouldcr n% inches 

Natural waist length ]6i/2 inches Blade 13 inches 

Fashionable waist length ISJ4 inches Breast 38 inches 

[•■ull length according to style. Waist .' 34J/2 inches 

Square down and out from A, 

From A to B is the scye depth plus "4 iuch; B to 30 is -J^ inch; A to C is J/2 inch 
more than the natural waist length; C to D is IJ/^ inches or may be l->4 inches; E is full 
length; F is halfway between .'\ and 30; G is halfway between A and 1'"; scpiare out from 
G, F, B, 30, C, D and E. 

From C to R is ],< the indentation; draw a line from .A through R tn y and square 
down ; this locates II ; from H to 13 is I3/2 inches or may be made 1 J4 inches; from 13 to I is 
J-2 breast ; 1 to j is J ' j inches ; J to 22 is ^ inch ; K is halfway between 13 and I ; from K to 
L is 33,4 inches ; sejuare down from L to locate M ; apjjly the blade measure from 13 to L 
which is 13 inches and square up; L back to 31 is 3/2 inch ; point N is halfway between H and 

31 ; N to (.) is 134 inches; A to 28 is the same distance as H to O; draw a line from O to 28. 

I'Vcim A t(i T is ii-}g inches; T to U is IJ/2 inches; draw a line from A to U ; from A to 
\' is ,'() breast ; scjuare up from V to locate W ; draw a line from 14 inch below W to P ; from 
Q to S is 5^ breast plus ^4 inch or may be made to style; scjuare down from S and shape the 
back; from X to Y is 134 inches; square down from Y; 1 t(j 2 is j4 iui-'h ; from O to 23 is 
tV breast; jtoint Z is halfway between the line squared flown frotn 31 and Y; point 3 is 3/2 
inch above the waist line; shape the sidebody. 

From M to 4 is 3.-2 of 3434 waist; square down from I; llus locates II; from 11 to 14 
is 34 inch less than ',4, breast; point 5 is halfway between M and 4; point 6 is halfway be- 
tween L and J; draw a line from .5 through (i up; from A to W and L to 7 is the strap 
measure plus .>4 inch; draw a line from 7 to P; from 7 to 23 is )i inch less than W to P; 
shape the shcadder and armscye. 

Scpiare forwards from 7 by line .5-(i ; Irom 1 to !l is 'i breast plus 3'2 inch; draw a line 

from 9 to 22 ; from !) to 10 is 'A breast; 7 to 8 is 3/3 breast; draw a line from 8 to 10 

and shape the gorge; from 4 back to 17 is 234 inches; from R to 29 is the same distance 

as from 11 to 13; from Z to Y, X to 2'.l and 17 to 21 is the waist measure net; shape the 
side of forepart. 

Place the square to line 14-4 and make a mark at .'Ui ; sweep from 14 forwards and back- 
wards pi\oting at 3() and shape the bottom of forepart ; from 22 to 27 is 1^4 inches; 4 to 

32 is the same; shape the front edge. 

THE SKIRT. 

Draw a straight line from the front swecj) to Id; this locates point 12; go up from 16 
to 24, 134 inches more or less according to the amount of flare desired; draw a line from 
12 to 24 and square down by that line to 25; from 24 to 25 is 9 inches; from 25 to 26 is I34 
inches; draw a line from 24 through 26 down; from 24 to 19 is 34 inch more than S to 18 ; 
from 14 to 15 is the same distance as from 24 to 19 ; finish the skirt as shown, rounding it 5^ 
inch at 26. 



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139 




DIACiRAM 68 



H" AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 

DIAGRAM 69 

SINGLE-BREASTED FROCK OVERCOA 1" FOR A STOUT FIGURE. 

Tlie mcasurc-incnts as taken over the waistcoat are as follows: 

Indentation 1^ inciies Strap 13J/2 inches 

Scye depth 9^)4 inches O\ershoul(ler Id inches 

Natural waist lengtii IT inches Blade 14 inches 

Fashionable waist length 18^ inches Breast 12 inches 

Full length according to style. Waist 43 inches 

Square down and out from A. 

Prom A to B is the scye depth plus 34 '"^''i '• L> to oO is J4 '"^"'i '< A to C is natural waist 
length plus j/^ inch; C to D is 1J4 or 1^4 inches; E is full length; F is halfway between 
A and :!() ; G is halfway between A and F; square out from G, F, B, 30, C, D and E. 

I'"r(ini C to R is ;>4 inch; draw a line from A through R to O; from H to 13 is IJ/2 
inches ; R to 2!) is the same ; from 13 to I is ^ breast ; I to J is ] ■/$ inches ; J to 23 is }i inch ; 
square up from 22; K is halfway between ]3 and I ; from K to L is SJ/^ inches; square down 
froiu L to locate M ; apply the blade measure from 13 to L and square up; from L back to 31 
is yi inch; point N is halfway between H and 31; N to O is lj4 inches. 

From A to 28 is the same distance as from H to U ; draw a line from O to 28 ; A to T is 
6% inches ; T to U is 1J4 inches ; draw a line from A to U ; A to V is >^ breast ; square 
up from V to locate W ; draw a line from J4 i"ch below W to P ; from O to S is ^/^ breast 
plus '4 ill"-'' : square down from S and shape the back; from X to Y is 1^ inches; square 
ddwn from Y ; from 1 to 2 is J^ inch ; O to 33 is A breast ; point Z is halfway between Y and 
37: i)oint 3 is ^ inch above the waistline; shape the sidebody. 

THE FOREPART. 

I<"rum M to 4 is yi waist; sijuare down from I ; this locales I 1 ; from 11 to J4 is ^2 inch 
less than '.(-, breast; this being a coat for a stout figure, we go down from 14 to 34, •>4 inch ; 
draw a line from 3 to 34 ; point 5 is halfway between M and 4; point G is halfway between L 
and J : draw a line from 5 through 6 up ; from A to W and L to 7 is the strap measure plus % 
inch: draw a line from 7 to P ; 7 to 23 is % inch less than W to P ; shape the shoulder 
an<l armscye. 

S(|uare forwards from 7 by line 5-G ; 7 to 9 is li breast plus ^ inch ; sipiare forwards from 
(I by line 5-6 ; this locates S.'j ; draw a line from 9 to 35 ; from 9 to 10 is the depth of the gi irge 
desired ; 7 to 8 is >^ breast ; draw a line from 8 to 10 and shape the gorge ; from 4 back to 17 is 
l.)4 inches; from Z to Y, X to 29 and 17 to 21 is the waist measure net; shape the side of 
forepart. 

From 35 to 27 is IJ^ inches; from 4 to 33 is the same; shape the front edge; (dace 
tlic straight edge tn line 14-4 and make a ma.rk at 3() ; draw a straight line from 16 to 14; 
cut out a small V where the two lines cross; from I t l)ack to .38 is gi/ inches; sweep from 
38 fcnwards pivoting at 36; hollow the forepart slightly between 3 and the V and shape 
llic hnttdni of forepart. 

THE SKIRT. 

F'rom IG up to 24 is 1J4 inches; draw a line from 13 to 34 and by that line square down 
to 25 ; from 24 to 25 is 9 inches ; from 25 to 26 is lyi inches ; draw a line from 24 through 26 
down; from 34 to 19 is % inch more than from S to 18; from 14 to 15 is the same distance 
as 34 to 19; square down from 20 by the waistline ; finish the skirt as shown rounding it -><i 
inch at 36. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



in 




DIAGRAM 69 



142 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 70 

SINGLE-BREASTED PADDOCK OVERCOAT. 

The measurements as taken o\er the waistcoat are as follows: 

Indentation ] J/2 inches Strap 12J4 inches 

Scye depth dyi inches Overshonlder 18 inches 

Natural waist length 1G.)4 inches Blade ISJ^ inches 

l-'ashionahle waist length 1SJ4 inches Breast 39 inches 

I'ull length according to style. Waist 35i/2 inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus 3/4 inch ; B to 19 is ^4 inch; A to C is natural waist 
length plus yi inch; C to D is II/2 or Ij^ inches; A to E is full length; F is halfway between 
A and 19; G is halfway between A and F; square out from C, F. B, 19, C, D and E. 

From C to R is ^j4 inch ; draw a line from A through R to Q and square down ; from H 
til 32 is ly^ inches; R to 33 is the same; from 32 to I is '/z breast; I to } if, lyi inches; 
I to 14 is ^ inch ; K is halfway l)etween 32 and 1 ; K to L is Syi inches; square down from L 
In locate M ; apjjly the blade measure from 32 to L which is 13)4 inches and square up; L back 
to 15 is y2 inch; sipiare up and down from 15; N is halfway between H and 15; from N to 
O is ly inches. 

From A to 24 is the same dstance as from IT tn ( ); draw a line fmm O to 2-1; from A 
111 T is Gfg inches; T to L' is I'j inches; draw a line from A to U; from A to V is % 
breast ; square up from \' to locate \V : draw a line from y^ inch below W to P ; Q to S is ^ 
breast plus y inch or make the distance to suit the style ; square down from S and shape the 
back; from X to Y is 1 14 inches; square down from Y; from 1 to 2 is .^4 inch; O to Z is 
1^ breast; point 22 is halfway between 29 and Y; point 3 is 3^4 inch above the waistline; 
>hape the sidebody. 

THE FOREPART. 

From M to 1 is J/i waist ; square down from 1 to locate 1 1 ; from I I to i:; is ' j inch less 
than !i'i breast; point 5 is halfway between M and I ; ])oiiU (i is halfway between L and J; 
draw a line fmm 5 through G up; from A to W and L to 7 is the stra]) measure plus ^ inch; 
tlraw a line from 7 to P ; 7 to 31 is -'s inch less than W to !'; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Sc|uare forwards from ~i by line 5-1! ; from 7 to !i is 'i l)reast plus I2 inch; draw a round- 
ing line from !• to 14 ; from 9 to 10 is 'h l)reast or to suit tlie style; 7 to 8 is 3^^ breast; draw a 
line from S tn 10 and shape the gorge; 11 to ;)0 is 1^4 inches; 4 to 31 is the same; 4 back to 27 
is 334 inches: from 22 to ^', X to 33 and 27 to 21 is the waist measure net; shape the side of 
forepart. 

Draw a line from 13 through 3 to 24; square down from 21 ; from 24 to 25 is 9 inches; 
25 to 26 is 134 inches ; draw a line froin 24 through 2G down ; from 24 to 18 is 34 inch more 
than from S to 17 : from 13 to 28 is 3^ inch less than 24 to IS ; shape the front edge and finish 
the skirt rounding it ;Vs inch at 2G. This skirt cuts open to point Hi and from there a fish is 
taken out ; the front of the coat and skirt are left in one piece. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



]4;i 




DIAGRAM TO 



Ml AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 71 

DOUBLE-BREASTED PALETOT. 

The measurements as taken over the waistcoat are as follows: 

Indentation 1 ^ inches Strap 12 inches 

Scye depth 9 inches Overshoulder 17 inches 

Natural waist length 16>^ inches Blade 12>4 inches 

Fashionable waist length 1SJ4 inches Breast 36 inches 

Full length to suit style. Waist 32 inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus y:^ inch ; B to ;Jii is J4 inch ; A to C is natural waist 
length plus ^ inch; C to D is 1^ inches; A to E is full length; F is halfway between 
A and 30; G is halfway between A and F; square out frcim (I, F, B, 30, C, D and E. 

From C to R is >^ indentation; shape the center of back from F through R to Q and 
scjuare down ; from H to 13 is ]>^ inches ; R to 29 is the same ; from 13 to I is 3^ breast ; I to 
I is 1J4 inches; J to 22 is Y^ inch; K is halfway between 13 and 1 ; K to L is 3i/^ inches; 
s(|uare dnwn from L to locate M ; apply the blade measure from 13 to L which is 12^ 
inches and square up; from L back to 31 is ^4 inch; square up from 31. 

fViinl N is halfway between H and 31; from N to U is I }4 inches; from A to 28 is 
the same distance as J I to O; draw a line from () to 28; from A to T is 6^ inches; T to U 
is \y2 inches; draw a line from i\ to U; A to \' is \i breast; square up from V to locate 
\V; draw a line from ^ inch below W to P; from O to S is V/, inches; 24 to 18 is 5 inches; 
draw a line from S to 18 and shape the back. 

From X to Y is \ inch; square down from ^' ; this locates point IG; from Y to 25 is 9 
inches; 25 to 26 is IJ^ inches; draw a line from l(i through 26; from 16 to 19 is the same 
distance as from S to 18; from 1 to 2 is % inch; square down from K; from M to 4 is ^^ 
waist; point 5 is halfway between M and 4; point 6 is halfway between L and J : draw a line 
from 5 through 6 up ; from A to W and L to 7 is the strap measure plus ^4 inch ; draw a line 
from T to P ; from 7 to 23 is y& inch less than W to P ; shape the shoulder and armscye ; 
square forwards from 7 by line 5-6; from 7 to 1) is li breast plus J.^ inch; draw a rounding 
line from 9 to 22. 

From 9 to fO is Jo breast; 7 to 8 is y^ breast; draw a line from 8 to 10 and shape the 
gorge; 22 to 27 is 3>^ inches; 4 to 32 is the same; M to 20 is ^ inch; draw a line from 
211 to 32 and square down from 32; this locates 4; from 4 to 5 is J/^ breast; from 4 back 
to 17 is 2J'< inches; apply the waist measure from X to 29 and 17 to Y and suppress the 
balance between Z and 21 ; add Y^ inch round at 26. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



145 




DIAGRAM 71 



146 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 72 

DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK OVERCOAT 

The measurements as taken over the waistcoat are as follows: 

Indentation lyz inches Strap 12i/^ inches 

Scye depth 9^ inches Overshoulder 17^ inches 

Natural waist length IQyi inches Blade 13 inches 

Fashionable waist length ]8^ inches Breast 38 inches 

Full length according to style Waist S-ijA inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus J4 inch; B to 30 is ^ inch ; A to C is natural waist 
length plus ^1 inch; C to D is 1^ inches; A to E is full length; F is halfway between 
A and 30; G is halfway between A and F; square out from (1, F, B, 30, C, D and E. 

From C to R is ^ indentation; draw a straight line from A through R to Q and square 
down; from H to 13 is ly, inches; R to 20 is the same: 13 to I is J^ breast; I to J is IJ/S 
inches; J to 22 is 1 inch; K is halfway between 13 and I; K to L is 3^ inches; square 
down from L to locate M ; apply the blade measure from 13 to L which is 13 inches and square 
up; L back to 31 is ^ inch; square up and down from 31 ; point N is halfway between H 
and 31 ; N to O is ]>4 inches. 

From A to 28 is the same distance as H to O ; draw a line from O to 28 ; A to T is 
6^ inches ; T to U is 1^/2 inches ; draw a line from A to U ; from A to V is 'A breast ; square 
up from V to locate W ; draw a line from % inch below W to P ; from Q to S is ^/^ breast 
plus y inch or to style: square down from S and shape the back. 

From X to Y is 1^4 inches; square down from Y; from 1 to 2 is ^ inch; O to 33 is A 
breast; point Z is halfway between the line squared down from 31 and Y; point 3 is jA 
inch above the waistline; shape the sidebody. 

THE FOREPART. 

From M to 4 is i^ waist; square down from 4; from 11 to 14 is y2 inch less than % 
breast; point 5 is halfway between M and 4; point 6 is halfway between L and J; draw a 
line from 5 through 6 up ; A to \V and L to 7 is the strap measure plus •>'4 inch ; draw a line 
from 7 to P; 7 to 23 is }i inch less than the back shoulder width: shape the shoulder and 
arm scye. 

Square forwards from '] by line S-fi ; 7 to 9 is 'A breast plus J4 '"^"'i ; ^il'' /4 '""-''i fi^r scam 
in front of 4 and shape the front from 9 through 22 down to 14; from 9 to 10 is Vt breast; 7 
to 8 is 3/^ breast; draw a line from 8 to 10 and shape the gorge; 4 back to 17 is 2% 
inches; Z to Y, X to 29 and 17 to 21 is the waist measure net. 

THE REVER. 

Draw a straight line at 14-4 up to 36; sweep from 10 to 3(5 pivoting at 14; sweep from 14 
forwards to 20 and backwards pivoting at 36; shape the bottom of forepart, including the 
rever. Make the width of the rever according to style. 

THE SKIRT. 

Draw a straight line from 1(3 into the front sweep; this locates 12; from 16 to 24 is 1J4 
inches; draw a line from 12 to 24 and square down; from 24 to 25 is 9 inches; 25 to 26 is 1^ 
inches ; draw a line from 24 through 26 down ; 24 to 19 is J4 '"ch more than S to 18 ; 14 to 15 
is the same distance as from 24 to 19; square down from 20 by the waistline; finish the 
skirt rounding it Ys inch at 26. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



147 




DIAGRAM 72 



MS AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 

DIAGRAM 73 
DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK OVERCOAT FOR A CORPULENT FIGURE. 

The nu-;isurements as taken over the waistciiat are as fulluws: 

Scye depth 9^ inches Oxershoukler . . . 1!) inches 

Natural waist length 17 inches Blade 14 inches 

Fashionable waist length 18;>4 inches Breast 43 inches 

Full length according to style. Waist 44 inches 

Strap 13>4 inches 

Scjuare down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus 34 inch; B to :10 is J4 inch; A to C is natural waist 
length plus >4 inch; C tt> D is 1^4 inches; A to E is full length; F is halfway between 
A and 30; G is halfway between A and F; square out from ( i, F^ B, 30, C, D and E. 

From C to R is ^4 inch ; draw a line from A through R to Q and square down ; from 
H to lo is ]_!/ inches; R to 29 is the same; 13 to I is 1^ breast; I to J is 1>^ inches; J to 
22 is 1 inch; square up fmni 22; K is halfway between 11 and I ; from K to L is 3^1 inches; 
square down from L to locate M; apply the blade measure from 13. to L which is Flinches 
and square up; L back to 31 is >4 inch; square up and down from 31 ; N is halfway be- 
tween H and 31. 

From N to O is 1^4 inches; from A to 28 is the .same distance as FT to (); draw a line 
from O to 28 ; from A tt) T is Gji inches; T to U is 1^ inches; draw a line from A to U ; 
A to \' is /(. brea.st ; square up from \' to locate W; draw a line from 34 ''i^'li below \V to 
P; from O to S is 34 breast plus >4 '"^'b ; square down from .S and shape the back; from M 
to 4 is y^ waist; square down from 4; this locates 11. 

From 11 to 14 is '_. inch less than '., breast; 14 to 34 is .>:4 inch; from 1 back to 17 is 1 ■;4 
inches; X to 29 and IT to Y is the waist measure net; square down from \' ; from 1 to 2 
is -14 inch; O to 3;! is iV breast; i)oint Z is halfway lictween Y and 10; point 3 is 3^ 
inch above the waistline; shape the sidebody, also the side of the forepart, overlapping 
it about ys inch at 3; point .5 is halfway between M and 1 ; point 1; is halfway between L 
and I ; draw a line from 5 through (i up. 

From A to W and L to 7 is the strap measure plus y inch; draw a line from 7 to P; 
from 7 to 23 is ji inch less than the back shoulder width; shape the shoulder and armscye ; 
square forwards from 7 by line "i-G ; from 7 to 9 is Vf, breast plus y inch; square out from 
(1 by line .Vd ; this locates 3,'); add 34 i'H'h for se;im in front of I and shape the front edge 
from 9 through 35 down to 37. 

Draw a line from :'. to 34; phu c llic square to point Itl-ll .ind draw a straight line 
across; 39 is wdiere tiie two lines cross; cut out .1 small \' at 3i) ; shape the i)ottt)m of fore- 
l.art, hollowing it slightly between 3 and 39. 

THE REVER 

Draw a straight line from 37 up to :)V> ; sweep from U) to ;i(i pi\oting at 37 ; from 14 back 
to 38 is 234 inches; sweep from 38 forwards to 20 pi\oting at :'.(! and shape the l)ottom of 
forepart. 

THE SKIRT. 

Point 12 has been located by drawing the line from Ifi to 1 I ; from l(i to 21 is 1>4 inches; 
draw a line from 12 to 24 and square down ; 24 to 25 is 9 inches ; 25 to 26 is 1>4 inches ; draw 
a line from 24 through 26 down ; from 24 to 19 is 34 inch more than from S to IS ; 37 to 15 is 
the same distance as 24 to 19; square down from 20 by the waistline; finish the rever to 
style and round the skirt y& inch at 26. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



149 




DIAGRAM 7;J 



150 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 

DIAGRAM 74 

SHELL FOR FUR COAT. 

The measurements as taken over the waistcoat are as follows : 

Scye depth 9 inches Overshoulder 17 inches 

Waist length 16)4 inches Blade 13J/2 inches 

Fvill length 48 inches Breast 36 inches 

(or whatever the style calls for). 
Strap 13 inches Waist 33 inches 

This coat is to be increased two inches over the breast, waist and seat ; also add ^ inch 
to the scye depth, jX inch to the strap, % inch tn the o\ershoulder and Yz inch to the blade. 
This makes the measurements as follows : 

Scye depth 9^ inches Blade 13 inches 

Strap 133/2 inches Breast 38 inches 

Overshoulder VtVi inches Waist 34 inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus J4 incii, in this case 9^^ inches; B to 18 is Y^ inch; 
from A to C is the waist length plus -)4 inch ; C to D is 6 inches; A to E is full length ; F is 
halfway between A and 18; G is halfway between A and F; square out from G, B, 18, C, D 
and E. 

From C to 2 is ^ inch ; draw a line from F to 3 and scjuare down ; this locates 1 ; from 1 
to 3 is \y2 inches; 3 to H is J^ of 38 breast; H to I is 1^4 inches; I to J is J4 inch; K is 
halfway between 3 and H ; K to L is 3^/2 inches; square down from L to locate Q ; apply the 
blade measure plus an extra Yz inch from 3 to L, in this case 13 inches and square up ; L back 
to 15 is Y2 inch; M is halfway between 1 and 15; M to N is \Ya inches; square up and 
down from N; this locates point 6; from 6 to 19 is 1 inch; 6 to 30 is 3J4 inches; draw a 
line from N through 19 down; this locates 7; from N to P is 1 inch; P to 5 is J/2 inch. 

From A to 8 is 6^^ inches; 8 to 9 is 1>4 inches; draw a line from A to 9; A to 10 is Vh 
of 38 breast; square up from 10 to locate 11; draw a line from 11 to O and shape the back. 

THE FOREPART. 

Draw a straight line from 5 through 30 down; hollow the side seam at the waist about 
Ya inch; from 5 to 31 is the same length as from P to 7; from Q to S is 3/2 of 34 waist; 
point T is halfway between O and S ; point U is halfway between L and I ; draw a line from 
T through U up ; from A to 11 and L to V is the strap measure plus .54 inch, in this case 13^4 
inches ; draw a line from V to O ; from V to Z is ^ inch less than 11 to O ; shape the 
shoulder and armscye. 

Square forwards from V by line T-U ; from V to 4 is '0 breast plus Yj, inch ; draw a 
rounding line from 4 to S ; from V to Y is )^ breast; make the distance from 4 down to the 
gorge Vb breast and shape the gorge; from J to 13 is 3)4 inches; S to 13 is the same; from 
Q to R is 1 inch; square down from 13 by line R-13 ; this locates point 16; from 16 to 17 is 
Yi. of 38 breast ; shape the front edge and bottom of forepart. 

THE COLLAR. 

The backpart : — Square up from 11 by line A-9 and square up from A by the same line, 
from A to 34 is 1^4 inches; 11 to 33 is the same; draw a line from 34 to 33; from 33 to X is 
1 Ya inches ; 34 to W is the same ; from 34 to 35 is the width of the collar desired plus Y2 
inch which is to be shaped of? later on; 33 to 34 is the same; shape the Ijackpart of the 
collar as shown. 

The front part of the collar: — From 29 to 38 is \Ya inches; draw a line through 38 for the 
break of lapel ; this locates point 30 ; from 27 to 36 is 1)4 inches; place the square to line 
38-31 and square up until the right angle touches at 14 ; square back from 31 ; this locates 32 ; 
shape the collar stand from 26 through 30 to 33 ; from 37 to 33 is the same distance as from 23 
to 84 on the backpart of the collar; shape the collar from 33 through 33 into the front break 
line. 

Now cut out the two parts of the collar and place them together, jioint 33 to 37 and 
point 34 to 33, and reshape the collar. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



151 




DIAGRAM n 



jr)2 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAMS 75 & 76. 

THE SLEEVE. 

Diagrams 75 and 76 show how to measure the armhole for the sleeve. Measure the 
armscye closely, beginning at 1 through 2 and up to 3; now let us say that this armhole 
measures 19 inches; proceed as follows : point 3 is ] inch above the breast line and is the 
front notch; for the back go up J4 of the armscye from the breast line and place the notch 
there. 

Place the back shoulder along the front shoulder as shown on diagram 76; point b is 
the back notch: now measure the distance on a straight line from the front notch to the 
back notch: this distance is 934 inches; make your sleeve as shown in the following way. 



DIAGRAM 77 



From A to B is >5 of the armscye; from B to C is the same distance as from -1 to 5, 
which is the distance from the back notch to the breast line; from B to D is 1 inch always 
which is the same distance as the front notch from the breast line: B to E is full length of 
the sleeve ; square out from C, B and E. This sleeve is to be made up with very little wad- 
ding; should a regular pad be desired for the sleeve head, make the distance from A to B, 
Vi armscye plus % inch, but the distance from B to C always renuiins the same as from tlie 
breast line to the notch. 

From D to K is U^ inches which is the same distance as from 2 to .J on a straight line 
(diagram 76) ; square down from K; this locates L; point M is halfway between L and B ; 
square up from M; this locates points O and N; point P is halfway between A and N; 
draw a line from P to D ; place the square to line O-E and square back ; from E to U is the 
widtli of the sleeve desired plus 1 inch for seams. 

Ill frock coats or sack coats where an underarm fish is cut nut. make the distance from 
K til \' 'j inch; in sack coats or overcoats where no underarm lisli is cut out, make the 
ilistance from K to V, J4 inch ; in this case from K to V is yi inch ; add J4 '""-''i width on top 
of the undersleeve at V for a seam; draw a line from V to M ; from B to G is 1^ inches; 
E to H is the same; B to 1 is the same distance as B to G ; E to J is the same distance 
as E to H : hollow the upper and undersleeve as at Q and R, .>^ inch and add the same amount 
from S to T and shape the sleeve ; in shaping the undersleeve go up froiu 1 to F a full 34 incdi. 



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DIAGRAM 76 



DIAGRAM r 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 78 

In a case of measuring the armhole on a frock coat, proceed in the same manner as 
described on diagrams 75 and 76. but before measuring the distance from the back notch to 
the breast line, let the back uxerlap the sidebody a JS inch before measuring same. 



DIAGRAM 79 

This sleeve is made the same as shown on diagram 77 with the exce|)tioii that it is 
cut half and half, therefore add a seam at D which is an extra ^ inch to the upper and 
under sleeve as shown and fmish the same as the other sleeve. 



DIAGRAM 80 



If an extra easy sleeve is desired, make your slee\ e as shown in this diagram. From 
A to B is }4 the armscye ; B to C is the same distance as from tlic breast line to the back 
notch ; from B to D is 1 inch always ; from D to K is the width of the sleeve as shown on 
Diagram 76; square down from K ; this locates I ; M is halfway between I and B; square 
up from M ; this locates points O and N ; point P is halfway between A and N ; draw a line 
from P to D ; from I down to S in this case is ^ inch ; place the square to S-B and square 
down ; this locates point H ; square back from H by line O-H and make the width of the 
slecxe according to style and linisli the same as shown in diagram 77. 



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155 



U1A(.RAM 78 




DIAGRAM ?9 



DIAGRAM 80 



l-^>'^ AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 81 

In cutting sleeves for overcoats, the same iiietliod is used as for under coats. The only 
change made is that the overcoat sleeve is cut l)j inches larger around the wrist than an 
imder coat slee\e of the same size would he 'l"o measure tlie armhole for a Box (Jver- 
coat, proceed as follows: do not add the overhq) as from ] to 2 in the measuring of the arm- 
holes, but hegin as at A and measure around through 2 straight up to B; for the overlap 
between 1 and 2 there is an addition made on the undersleeve. 



DIAGRAM 82 

SLEEVE FOR BOX OVERCOAT. 

The size of this armhole is ".' 1 inches; the width of the slecxc cm a straight line is lU 
inches. 

S(|uare down and out frinn A. 

I'rom A to 15 is ' .! (if the armscye ; B to C is ^,4 of the arinsc_\e; 11 to D is J inch ; square 
out Irom C and l] ; from U to K is K.l inches; square down from K; this h.icates L; M is 
halfway between L and B ; square up from M ; this locates points O and N ; point P is half- 
way between A and N; draw a line from I' to D; from M back to V is j/2 inch; take out 
niilinng at K but draw a line from K to V ; this gi\es the e.xtra j/. inch that is retpiired for the 
overlaii "' I'"-" arndiole finm I to 2 (diagram 81); add on a seam to the imdersleeve as 
shown. 

I'roui B to I'L is tlie sleeve lengtli ; in the case of an o\ercoat, the sleeve is cut the 
same length as for the under coat ; there is no need to adtl an\ length because the backpart 
and shoulder having become wider and the armhole deeper, this gives sufficient length to 
the sleeve by making it the same length as the under coat ; square back from E by line O-E. 

From E to U in this case is ''1^2 inches ; this will finish the slee\-e ]■! inches and will make 
it ly^ inches wider than an under coat sleeve of the same size would be. Add from B to 
G 1% inches and from E to H the same; reduce the underslee\e from B to 1 and E to J 
the same amount as has been added to the upper sleex e ; IkiIIow at O and R, ■j'i inch and add 
the same amount from S to T. 



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J 57 




DIAGRAM 82 



158 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAMS 83 & 84. 

h'ur a narrow shoulder manipulate the sleeve as follows : first of all cut all your should- 
ers natural width ; by natural width, I mean that after the back width is squared up, make 
the distance from 1 to 2 at least ^ inch. 

Now see diagram 83, After the pattern is finished with the natural shoulder, measure 
the arniscyc and mark the notches; now draft the sleeve for the natural arniscye and pro- 
ceed as follows; place the back shoulder along the front shoulder and reshape the shoulder 
width, see diagram 8:5, broken line, but do not cut out. 

Now .see diagram 84. Place the original back notch to the sleeve head as at .T ; extend 
line (i-4 u]) and make the notch as at 4; now reshape as indicated by the broken line; 
lengthen the undersleeve as from 3 to 4 to make it correspond with the upper sleeve and re- 
shape. 



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159 



DIAGRAM 8;i 




DIAGRAM 81 



Hi" AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 

DIAGRAM 85 
RAGLAN OVERCOAT. 

The nieaMircmeiUs a.s taken over the waistcuat are as follows: 

Scye depth ^J'/i inches Overshonldcr 18 inches 

Waist length 17 inches Blade 13^ inches 

Full length whatever style calls for. Breast 39 inches 

Strap ^''^H inches Waist 35^ inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is scye depth plus ^ inch; B to C is ^4 inch; A to D is waist length plus 
•}^ inch; E is full length; F is halfway between A and C; G is halfway between A and 
1'" ; square out from G, B, C, D and E. 

From D to 3 is ^ inch; draw a line from F through 2 down; this locates 22; square 
out from 22; from 1 to 31 is iy2 inches; 31 to H is I/2 breast; H to I is 1)4 inches; I to J 
is ^J/^ inch; K is halfway between 31 and H ; Kto L is 31/2 inches; square down from L to 
locate y ; apply the blade measure from 31 to L which is 13)4 inches and square up; L back 
til J5 is y'j inch; square up and down from 1."); point JNI is halfway between 1 and 15; from M 
to N is 1^ inches; square up from N. 

From A to 8 is Gya inches; 8 to 9 is IJ/2 inches; draw a line from A to 9 ; A to 10 is 
Vb breast; square uj) from 10 to locate 11; draw a line from 1 1 to O and shape the back; 
point 4 is where the armhole crosses the breast line ; square down from -1 to locate 19 ; 
from 19 to 6 is 1^ inches; G to 20 is 1^/2 inches ; draw a line from 4 through 6 down ; this lo- 
cates ] and draw a line from 4 through 20 down ; from 4 to 18 is the same distance as from 4 
to T; from 3 to S is J^ waist; point T is halfway lietween O and .S ; point L' is halfway be- 
tween L anil 1 ; draw a line from 4' through U up. 

iMMm A to II and L to V is the strap measure plus 1 imh ; draw a line from \' to O; 
fnmi \' to Z is ;« incli less than I 1 to 2i; shape the shouhlci- and armscye; square forwards 
from \' by line 4'-l' ; \' to W is ;« breast plus y inch; draw a rounding line from W to J; 
W to X is the depth of the gorge desired; V to Y is >^ breast; shape the gorge; from Q to 
K is iy4 inches; S to i:i is i y inches; J to 12 is the same; square down from J3 by line 
R-13 ; this locates Hi. 

l'"rom ]() to 17 is y^, breast; shape the front edge and bottom of forepart; now add from 
I to J\ 134 inches and fi-om "i to ."> the same and reshape the liackpart. 

Now measure the armhole the same as shown on Diagram 81, that is, from 30 down to 
i."j and through 4 up to 21 ; point 15 is 1 inch aliove the lower breast line; from the lower 
i)reast line to 14 is y of llu- arniscyc; make the back notch at I I. The measurements for this 
armhole are as follows: 

Armscye circumference 31 yi inches 

■ Back notch at 14 to lower brc.ist line 5^-^ inches 

In this co.at it is not necessary to take the width of the anuhole from notch to notch on a 
straight line; now draw a line on the backpart from 11 into the armhole; place the square to 
that line until the right angle touches at 34; go out from 33 to 25 about y inch more or 
less according to style and sha|ic the backpart as from II through 25 into the armhole. 

THE FOREPART. 

Draw a line as from V to 15; place the square to that line until the right angle touches 
at :!(i; from 29 to 31 is y inch; from \' to 26 is y, incli ; shape the front part from 26 
through 31 to 15; now measure the distance on the backpart from the notch up to 11; in this 
case it is 7j/^ inches; measure the distance on a straight line from 15 to 26, in this case 
it is 10 inches. 

Measure the width of the shoulder at the narrowest point as from 27 to 38. in this case 
it is 6 inches; now proceed with your sleeve as follows: 



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161 




dia(;ram 8r 



162 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 86 
THE SPLIT SLEFA'E. 

S(|uar(_' iliiwii aiiil nut I'ri mi A. 

From A to D is Kj of the armscye ; D to C is the same distance as from the breast line up 
to the back notch; D to E is 1 iiicli ; square out from C and D; from 1'- to F is y^ of the 
armscye; square U]) and down from K; this locates (i ; p<iint N is halfway l)et\veen D and (i: 
square up and down from N ; this locates |)oints Z and X. 

From D to B is the slee\e length; scpiare l);ick from Fi l)y line Z-B ; from B to () is tiie 
width of the sleeve desired; from N back to II is ' _- inch; draw a line from F' to II and shape 
the under sleeve; from V to T is Y^ inch less than the distance from the back notch up to 11, 
in tliis case 7!s inches. 

F"rom \i to Q is the same distance as from 1"> to •.'(>, in this case 10 inches; from X to W 
is the same distance as from ;iiS to 27, in this ca -.e (i inches ; sweep from O to R pivoting at F. ; 
sweep from T to U pivoting at F' ; sweep from W forwards to R and backwards to U pivoting 
at X; from U to \' is Y^ inch; R to S is the same; draw a line from R to !•", ; this locates Y. 
Hollow the sleexe from Y to I the same amou;it as the shoulder has l)een rounded from 29 to 
:11 ; draw a line from \' to X and from S to X ; point P is halfway between O and B ; draw a 
line from Z tlirough X down to P; add -'s inch or '^ inch each side of line Z-P and rut out the 
sleexe; reduce the sleexe frcpm \' to 1. '^ inch and rniisii. 



DIAGRAM 87 

If a whole sleex'e is desired, proceed as in this diagram: from A to B is Yi of the arm- 
scye; B to (_" is the same distance as from the back notch to the lower l^reast line; I! to 1) 
is 1 inch; from 1) to K is '_> of the armscye; s(piarc up and down from K; this locates L; 
point M is halfway between P> and L; square up from M ; this locates (); M to Y is y'j inch; 
from 1) to Z is the same distance as from l.'J to 21) on diagram 85; from K to 1 is the same 
distance as from hack notcii up to 11. 

.\dd irom K to \' the s.anic amount as has been cut off from the actual b.ackpart at II 
to its present raglan style l>ack. in this case it is Ji.'j inch; swee[) forwards from I pivoting 
at L; sweep backxv.ards from Z iiixutingat M; this locates point P; draw a line from P to 
D; from 1' to ".' is 1 inch; draxv ;i line from 2 ti,) \', ;dso draw :\ line from \ to Y. 

Ilolloxv tiie sleeve from '^ to 1 the s.ame amount as the shoulder has been rounded from 
29 to .'!l ; shape the undersleexe straigiit down froni \' and shape the U|)])er sleexe and 
finish the same as other sleeves. 

In sewing up the side of this sleeve, tile uprier sleexe is to be fulled in al)OUt 'S incli 
itetween L and \'. The best way to sexv in this sleeve is as folloxvs: put the stay in from 
al)out 1 inch aliove the notch to witliin about I inch beloxv the shoukler point at P and 
draw the sleeve in '4 inch, also lay your lajie I inch beloxv 2 and draw that part in about 
y^ inch between 2 and \' ; press the fullness away on both sides liefore joining to the should- 
er. 



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163 




DIACUAM 86 



DIAGRAM 87 



Kii AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 

DIAGRAM 88 
BALMACAAN. 

This coat is cut the same as either the Box Coat or the Raghm Coat, therefore \vc will 
cut same by proportion. 

Breast 38 inches 

Waist 34/2 inches 

Heighth 5 ft.. 7 ins. 

Square down and out from A. 

Frt)m A to B is ^ breast plus 3>i inches; B to C is % inch; A to D is 14 heighth plus 
.54 inch; E is full length; F is halfway between A and C; G is halfway between A and F; 
square out from G, B, C. D and E. 

From D to 2 is ^4 inch; draw a line from F through •>' down; this locates 22; square 
(lut from 22; from 1 to 21 is 1>4 inches; 21 to H is >4 breast; H to I is iy2 inches; I to J 
is ->4 inch; K is halfway between 21 and H; from K to L is 3>< inches; .square up and down 
from L; L back to 15 is >^ inch; square up and down from 15. 

Point M is halfway between 1 and 15; M to N is I34 inches; square up from N ; from A 
to 8 is 6}i inches; 8 to !• is 1/2 inches; draw a line from A to f) ; from A to 10 is ''6 breast; 
square up from 10 to locate 11 ; draw a line from 11 to O and shape the back; point -1 is 
where the armhole crosses the breast line; square down from 4; this locates 19; from 19 to 
6 is IV2 inches; from (J to 20 is 33/ inches; draw lines from 4 through 6 to 7 and from 4 
through 2i> to 18 ; 4 to 18 is the same distance as from 4 to 7 ; from 3 to S is ^ waist. 

Point T is halfway between O and S; point U is halfway between L and I; draw a line 
from T through U up; from A to 11 and L to V is }i of 38 breast plus 4 inches, in this case 
I31/2 inches; draw a line from V to O ; from V to Z is ^ inch less than the back shoulder 
width ; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forwards from V by line T-U ; V to W is li breast plus yi inch ; draw a rounding 
line from W to J ; \V to X is 'A breast ; \' to Y is ^ breast ; draw a line from Y to X and 
shape the gorge ; | to 12 is 1>4 inches ; S to 13 is the same; Q to R is 134 inches; square 
down from 13 by line R-Ki; this locates Hi; Pi to 17 is Vs breast; shape the front edge and 
licittoni of forepart. 

THE COLLAR. 

Draw a line from X through \' ; from Xto 29 is y'z of the shirt collar size; the normal 
shirt collar for a 38 breast is 15 inches, therefore the distance from X to 29 is lyi inches; 
point 30 is halfway between 29 and X; square up from 30; 30 to 31 is ]>4 inches; shape 
the collar from 29 through 31 to X. 

From 29 to 32 is % breast; place the square to points 29-32 and square out to 34; from 
32 to 34 is l>i inches; 39 to 33 is 1>4 inches; X to 39 is ^2 inch ; shape the collar stand 
from 33 through 34 to 39 ; from 34 to 35 is }i inch ; place the square to points 33-35 and 
square out to 30; 33 to 3(1 is the width of the collar desired; 34 to 37 and 39 to 38 are 
the same ; shape the collar as shown and finish. 

This collar stand is to be stretched until it folds over as shown by the crease line ; 
the collar size as it is now will be two inches larger than the shirt collar which is correct 
for an overcoat. Now measure the armscye as from 24 through 15 and 4 up to O; the cir- 
cumference of this armscye is 21 inches; point 15 is 1 inch above the lower breast line; 
from the lower breast line to back notch is 54 armscye ; now draw a straight line on the 
backpart from 11 to the armscye; jilace the square to that line until the right angle touches 

at O. 

Add from 27 to 28, >2 or .>4 inch rounding and shape the backpart ; draw a line on the 
forepart from 15 to V ; place the square to that line until the right angle touches at Z ; make 
the distance from 23 to 26 according to style, in this case about '4 inch ; from V to 25 is yi 
inch : shape the forepart from 25 through 26 into 15. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



JG5 




DIAGRAM 88 



166 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 89 

Now cut I lilt the tiirepart ami Ijackpart. place them side seam to side seam and jjioceed 
as shown on diagram S'.\ : split the hackpart a< Inmi A ti.> B and B b> C : open the liackpart 
from C to D as much as desired, ni this case al)Oiit oj.^ inches, alsci sjilit the forejiart as 
frcim 1'^ to F and F to H; open from 11 to G the same amount as the backpart lias been 
opened from C to D. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 




DIAGRAM 89 



168 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 90 

(Diagram 90). The forepart and backpart being now in one piece fold pattern over un- 
til both sides of the armscye as shown come together as at letter A. also the distance from 1 
to 2 should be about IJ/4 inches; crease the pattern down as shown. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



16!l 




DIAGRAM 90 



1^" AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 91 

i\'ii\\ take (liagiaiii !M : line B, C and !■" rei)reseiit the line where the pattern was creased, 
and this practically cuiistitutes the center of the coat; imw go down from A to D the dei)tli 
ol the arnihole desired, in thi> case it is I inclies; scjiiare hack from 1); this locates C ; meas- 
ure the distance from A to B, in this case it is oy4 inclies; now draw lines from tlie hack 
notch to C and Ironi the front notch to C an<] shajjc the arnisc_ve as slmwn. The armscve 
measurements will he noted on this diagram. 



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171 




^tlMSCVf C/RCUMffUfWE/* 



""^~^ 



23INCHE5 
3^CV. NOTCH 

5i Inches 



/ffl 



-4»- 



DIAGRAM :)L 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 92 

BALMACAAN SLEEVE. 

Square down and out froni A. 

From A to B is 'A armscye ; B to C is the same distance as from the breast Hne to the 
back notch which is ^ armscye; B to D is 1 inch ; square out from C and B ; from D to E is 
^ armscye; square up and down from E; this locates Z; point Y is halfway between B 
and Z; square up and down from Y; this locates M. 

From D to P is the same distance as from the front notch up to the shoulder point, in this 
case 1034 inches; from E to N is ^ inch less than from the back notch up, in this case 7ys 
inches; from M to O is the same as the shoulder width at the narrowest part, in this case 
6 inches ; sweep from P back pivoting at D ; sweep from N forwards pivoting at E ; sweep 
from O forwards and backwards pixoting at M ; this locates points Q-S. 

Draw a line from Q to E, also draw a line from S to D ; hollow from VV to X the same 
amount as the front part has been rounded from the straight line; hollow out between Q 
and E about }i inch ; Q to R is ^ inch ; S to T is the same ; draw lines from R to M and 
from T to M ; take ofT from R to 13, ^ inch ; from P> to G is the sleeve length ; place the 
square to M-G and square back. 

From G to 8 is the width of the sleeve desiretl; point 10 is iialfway between G and 8; 
shape the upper sleeve as shown, adding y2 inch each side of line E-H-L-10, from B to F is 
yi the distance of from A to D on diagram 91 ; square forwards and backwards from F; from 
F to I is the same distance as from A to B on diagram 91 , jjIus ^4 inch for a seam, in this 
case it is 3% inches plus a seam; square down from I ; from F to 1 is 9-34 inches; from I to 
F and 1 to 2 is the same distance as from F to 1. which is 9^ inches: add a seam at 2 
and square dowji ; draw a line from E to 2;from E to 3 is }i inch more than from the 
hack notch to C. (diagram 91) in this case it is 11^ inches. 

From D to J is % inch more than from the front notch to C ; shape the upper and un- 
der sleeve as shown and draw lines from J to K and from 3 to 4 ; from 5 to 6 is the same 
distance as from 5 to 7 : from 6 to 9 is the same distance as from 7 to 8 ; shape the .sleeve 
a> shown and finish. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



n:i 




DIAGRAM 92 



1^4 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 93 

HOW TO MAKE SPLIT SLEEVE. ■ 

T'l;u-e tlu' l>ack shoulder alongside iif the trout shduhlcf as show ii in tliis iliat^rani and 
|ir(iceed as fullows: draw a line I'lMni A to F: frnni A to \i is |s iireast ; square haek Inim 
!•", l)v line A-l'"; this shoulder should he made narrower than the ordinary shoulder ; reshape 
the hackpart as at II and I and the forepart as from G. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



Ho 




DIAGRAM y;5 



176 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 94 

Tlie Sleeve is made as follows : (diagram U-i) — place the upper slee\e U> the edge of 
the backpart as shown in this diagram, the side seam of the upper sleeve to rest along the 
notch of the backpart and shape the shoulder as shown through A and B and C. Now 
split the sleeve on that line. 

DIAGRAM 95 

The Forepart (diagram !»5) — place the other half of the upper slee\e alongside of the 
forepart, notch to notch, and the sleeve heail to the shoulder seam; shape the shoulder 
from D through E and the sleeve through F down; sweep from G to H pivoting at F; now 
add yi inch for two seams from E to H, F to I and J to K ; reshape the slee\e from H 
to L as shown. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



177 



DIABRAM !)J 




DIAGRAM 95 



1^8 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAMS 96 & 97 

If a two seam split slee\ e is desireil, proceed as follows: measure the armscye before 
the shoulder has been made narrower the same as shown on diagram 93 and proceed as 
follows: the measurement iov the armscye circumference is 31^ inches and from the breast 
line to the back notch is 5^/2 inches. 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is 'j of the armscye; B to C is SJ^ inches which is 1/4 armscye; B to D 
is 1 inch; square out from C and B; D to K is j'', armscye; square down from K; point 
M is halfway between B and L; square up and down from M ; this locates W ; I' is half- 
way between \\' and A ; draw a line from P to D ; also draw a line from K to M ; shape 
the upper and under sleeve as shown. 

From B to H is the sleeve length ; square out from H ; this locates E and U : line 

A-B-FI is on the fold and is not cut through; after the sleeve is cut out. open it as shown 
on diagram OT ; split the sleeve on line \\'-M-F. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



179 




05 



< 



50 
05 



< 

o 



380 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRA1V1S98, 99& 100 

( Diagram 98) Notch your sleeve at I ; place the backpart of tiie sleeve alongside 
of the backpart of the coat, point 1 which represents the slee\e notch to the Ijack notch; 
from J to r. is the width of the slee^•e desired; from U to C is *4 inch; shape the sleeve 
from H through C to B ; point B is ^ inch below line L-J. 

(Diagram !»!)) I'lace the frcjnt part of the sleeve to the forepart of the coat, point E, 
which is the notch of the slee\c to the notch of the armhole and the sleeve head to the 
shoulder seam; from C to J is the same distance as from B to J on Diagram 'JS ; from 
K to L is ^'4 inch; shape the sleeve from F through I. to J; point j is -y^ inch below 
line C-D. 

Sweej) from II to G pi\dting at A; add from F to M, J/, inch and reshape the slec\e 
as per broken line. 

To test the two parts of the sleexe, proceed as on Diagram 100; lay the two parts 
of the sleexe together as shown on this diagram; from M to (] is the addition tiiat has been 
made on the slcc\c from M to (1 on I^iagram 99. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



181 



DIAGRAM 98 




DIAGRAM 99 



DIAGRAM H)0 



183 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 

DIAGRAM 101 

INVERNESS. 

The measurements as taken over the waistcoat are as follows: 

Scye depth 9 inches Blade 12i.^ inches 

Waist length Ki^ inches Breast 36 inches 

Strap 13 inches Waist 'o2 inches 

Overshoulder 17 inches 

S(|uare down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus j4 inch; B to C is -j^ inch; A to D {■* waist 
length plus j^ inch; E is full length. These coats are usually cut fairly long. F is half- 
way between A and C; G is halfway between A and F; square out from G, B, C, D and F,. 

From D to 2 is -34 inch; draw a line from F through 2 down; tliis locates 23; square 
out from 23; from ] to 21 is IJ/ inches; 31 to H is yi breast; II to I is IJX inches; 
I to J is }'4 inch; K is halfway between 31 and TI ; K to L is 3^ inches; square down 
from L; ai)])ly the blade measure from 31 to L which is 13J/, inclies and scpiare up; L 
back to 15 is ^j inch; s(|uare down from 15. 

Point M is halfway between 1 and 1."); from M tn N is 1J4 inches; square up and dnwn 
from N ; this locates point l!i; from 111 to (1 is 1 J/^ inches; li back to 30 is ;!'/ inches; draw 
lines from N through (i down to 7 and from N thniugh 3o down to 18; N to 18 is the same 
distance as from N to 7. 

From A to 8 is (ij/g, inches; 8 to D is 1^ inches; draw a line from A to 0; .\ to 10 is 
% breast; square up from 10 to locate 11 ; draw a line from 1 1 to (); from O back to P 
IS iy'2 inches; N to 4 is 1 inch; 7 to 5 is thesame; draw a line from 4 to 5 and shape the 
back as sliown ; from 3 to S is J^ waist: point T is halfway between Q and S; point U is 
halfway between I^ and I ; draw a line from T through U up. 

From A to 11 and L to \' is the strap measure ])lus 1 inch; draw a line from V to O; 
from V to ."4 is the same distance as from 11 to P ; L to 3.3 is 3!-j inches; square back from 
33; this locates point 24; notch the liackpart on line 23-24 ; square forwards from \' by line 
T-U ; Y to W is ,'{, breast plus y'2 inch ; draw a rounding line from W to J ; W to X is % 
breast; V to Y is J/^ breast: draw a line from Y to X and slia])e the gorge. 

From T to 12 is 1^4 inches; S to 13 is the. same; Q to R is I3/4 inches; square down 
from 13 by line R-13; this locates 16; 16 to 17 is % breast; shape the front edge and 
bottom of forepart. 

THE CAPE. 

Extend the breast line back to 25 ; from L tci 30 is the slee\-e length plus ■)<4 inch ; 
sweep from 30 forwards to 28 and backwards to 25 pivoting at \" ; add from 28 to 39, 1 inch ; 
from 34 to Z is -l^ inch ; shape the back from 35 through P and Z to ^^. If the cape is to 
meet in front, it should be cut ofif as at X-T-S-38. but if it is to button, add from X to 31, 
■34 inch, J to 32 and .S to 33 the same and shape as per broken line; point 27 is 3 inches from 
point 25; this is to be a small open vent. 



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18.'! 




DIAGRAM 10] 



184 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 102 
SQUARE SHOULDERED INVERNESS. 

The iiicaMircnicnts are the same as in diagram 101, 

S(juarc diiwn and DUt fnun A. 

iM'um A to B is the scye deptii plus ^4 iiuli ; B to C is ^^ inch; A to U is waist length 
plus }{l inch; E is full length; F is halfway between A and C; G is halfway between A 
and 1"; square out from G, B, C, D and E. 

[•"rom D to 3 is ^4 inch; draw a line from E through 'i down; this locates 22; square 
out from 22; from 1 to 21 is ]>4 inches; 21 to li is y, breast; II to I is 13^ inches; I to J 
is j4 inch; K is halfway between 21 and H; K to L is 3j/j inches; square down from L to 
locate Q; apply the blade measure from 21 to L and sc|uare up; from L back to 15 is J/^ 
inch ; square up and down from 15. 

I'oinl j\l is halfway between 1 and 15; M to N is .IJ4 inclies; stpiare up and down 
from N ; this locates tJ-1 i) ; irvm 1 H t<.i (i is 1 ^4 incdies; G to 20 is 3J/2 inches; draw lines 
from N thrcjugh (i td T and from N thnmgh 20 drnvn; from N to 18 is the same distance as 
N t(j : . 

lM"om A to 8 is ii-ya inches; S to !) is 1)^ inclies; draw a line from A to !• ; A to .10 
is 14 breast; square up from lo to locate 11; draw a line froiu 11 to O ; now add from N 
to 4, 1 inch and fruni T to 5 the same and shape the back. 

THE FOREPART. 

From 3 to S is 3,2 waist: point T is halfway between O and S; point U is halfway 
between L and I; draw a line from T through U up; from A to II and L to V is the strap 
measure plus 1 inch; draw a line from V to (); \' to Z is .';s inch less than 11 to O; L to 
23 is 3J4 inches; square back from 23; shape the shouhler and armscye as shown; notch the 
back on line 23-24. 

Square forwards from V by line T-U ; V to W is I'ti breast plus ^< inch ; draw a round- 
ing line from \V through J and S; from W to X is % breast; V to Y is j/^ breast; draw a 
line from Y through X and shape the gorge; from J to 12 is ^}i inclies; S to 13 is the same; 
from 3 to R is 1 j4 inches; square down from -13 by line R-13; this locates IG; from 16 to 17 
is Ys breast ; shape the front edge and bottom of forepart. 

The cape is made as follows : extend the breast line to 25; from L to 30 is the sleeve 
length plus .54 inch: sweep from 30 forwards to 28 and backwards to 25 pivoting at V; 
from 28 to 29 is 1 inch; shape the bottom of the cape as shown; from Z to 26 is % breast; 
sweep from Z to 27 pivoting at 26; from Z to 27 is IJ^^ inches; draw a line from 27 to 25; 
shape the V of the cape as from Z to 26 and the side of the cape from 25 through 27 to 26, 
adding }{\ inch round to line 25-27. 



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DIAGRAM JO-i 



i«<5 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 103 

SHOULDER CAPE. 

Select ail overcoat pattern to correspond with the breast measurements required and 
proceed as follows: mark the backpart pattern on a piece of paper at A, B, C, D and G; 
from D to K is ^ inch ; G to F is 2 inches ; G to H is li breast ; from B to J is j/l breast ; 
J to L is Jj breast; L to I is 3J4 inches; draw a line from H through 1; sweep from C 
to K pivoting at K ; shape the back of the cape as shown, flattening the bottom about }< inch- 



DIAGRAM 104 
THE FOREPART. 

Place the forepart pattern of the overcoat on a piece of paper and mark around as 
shown; from A to B is i^ inch; C to D is the same distance as G to F on the backpart, in 
this case 2 inches ; from D to E is yi inch ; draw a line from E to G parallel with the armhole ; 
point G is 4 inches from E; sweep from E to F pivoting at G ; from E to F is 1^ inches; 
from N to I is Vs breast; point J is 134 inches from the front edge; point H is the same. 

From T to K is J/< of the full breast; draw a line from I through K down; from B to E 
is % inch less than E to F on the backpart ; from F to L is the same distance as from F to 
K on the backpart; sweep from E to M pivoting at A ; flatten the bottom of the cape about 
3/i inch. 



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is; 



|)IA(;ra.m k).-. 




DIAGRAM 10^ 



JSS AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM IU5 

■J'he backpart and iVji-epart, after they arc cut i_iiit arc tn he placetl together as at A and 
the bottom straightened if necessary. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER isi' 




DIAGRAM 105 



100 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 106 

SPANISH CAPE. 

Select an overcoat pattern to correspond with the breast measurement desired and 
proceed as follows: place the back shoulder alongside of the front shoulder as shown at 
A-B-C and mark the front and back pattern as shown. Draw a line from D to E; from D 
to F is 14. breast: place the square to line D-E and square down from E; measure the 
lenoth of the cape from D to I ; see what difference there is, if any, between that and the 
overcoat length. 

Reduce or increase the back from J to K the same amount as has been reduced or 
increased from H to 1 ; reduce or increase the front part from O to P the same amount as has 
been reduced or increased from J to K: M to 1 is the same distance as O to P ; measure the 
distance from A to K and make the distance from A to G the same ; sweep from G forwards 
to P and backwards to K pivoting at A; reshape the bottom and finish. 



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DIACRAAI 11)1! 



m AMERICANGARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 107 
MILITARY CAPE. 

Select an overcoat pattern to correspond with the l)reast measure desired and jtroceed 
as follows: place the forepart and l)ackpart into a square as shown in this (liai;ram, so tliat 
both sliMulders touch at O; apply the length fmm D to F and \vhate\er difference there is 
l)et\veen F and li, make the same distance between ('• and H, K and L, 1 and J ; add to M-N 
1/2 or ^4 inch and from Q td R the same; reduce the forepart from O to h^ the same ani( mnt 
as has been increased frnm M to N; draw a straight line from O to N; pnint I' is half- 
way between M and O. 

Sweei) from II to L iiivoting at P; jxiint T is lialfway between L and II; draw a line 
from R to T: from T to S is 5 inches; this distance may be made more or less according to 
the amount of drapery desired; draw a line from S to R; shape the front and back parts as 
shown, /. c. the backpart from X through R to T and the front part from V. through R to S ; 
after both parts have been cut out, place them together at point .S-T and hll in slightly to 
make tlie circle complete. 



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*— 




niACRAM 107 



194 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAMS 108 & 109 

A HOOD. 

The liood is made as follows: select an o\erc(iat [)atteni of the size desired; place the 
backpart on a sheet of paper and mark around it as from C to A, A to U, and U to S; 
line B is the breast line; from ?> to L is j/, breast; L In M is 2)<l inches; now place the 
forepart to overlap the liackjiart 'j inch from S to 1. 

Make the opening between U and 2."), ] inth; now mark around llie slundder and 
gorge of the forepart as from 1 In 2.") and from ''.~> to 'M ; point 21 is wdiere the lapel crease 
is; draw a line from 24 to M ; from A to C is the length of hood desired; draw a line 
from C to M ; shape the hood, adding aJiout an inch rounding oxer the line 24-M. 

Diagram 109 is tiie hood after it is folded into place. After the hood has been fokied, 
as is herein shown, go in from A to B, 1 inch; round the center seam away as to line B; 
stretch out the fold and shrink in the center seam as indicated. 



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DIAGRAM 108 




DIAGRAM 109 



196 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM no 
NAVAL OFFICER'S BLOUSE. 

(This coat is also worn hy Ijicycle policemen.) 

The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth i)^ inches Blade 13 inches 

Waist n inches Breast 38 inches 

Full length 30 inches ^Vaist 34 inches 

Strap ] 2^ inches Hip 40 inches 

Overshoulder 17>^ inches 

Scjuare down and out from A. 

From A to B is scye depth plus ^ inch ; C is waist length ; C to D is fi inches; A to E 
is full length; F is halfway between A and B; G is halfway between A and F; square out 
from G, F, B, C, D and E. 

From C to 2 is 1 inch ; E to 22 is >{. inch ; draw a line from E to 2 and 2 to 22; from 
1 to H is i/^ breast; H to I is 1J4 inches; I to J is .}4 inch; K is halfway between 1 and 
H ; K to L is 3^ inches; scjuare down from L to locate O; api)ly the blade measure from 1 
to L which is 13 inches and square U]); 1 is halfway between 1 and L; from 4 to N is 1^ 
inches; square up from N; tliis locates point R-O. 

From R to P is 1 inch; from A to 8 is 6^ inches; 8 to 9 is li4 inches; draw a line 
from A to 9 ; A to lo is ' i, breast; square up from 10 to locate 11 ; draw a line from j4 '"ch 
below 11 to O; from 2 to ". is 34 waist; square down from •") and shape the back. . 

THE FOREPART. 

From Q to S is y, waist; point T is halfway lietween and S; point U is halfway 
between L and I; draw a line fr<im T through V up: from A to 11 and L to V is the strap 
measure plus -^^ inch; draw a line from \' to (); \' to Z is ■><; inch less than tiie back 
shoulder width ; shape the shoulder and arm scye. 

Stpiare forwards from V by line T-V ; V to 23 is K, breast; 23 to W is y, inch; shape 
the front edge from \Y through J and S down ; from S to 11 is 2Jj inches; f) to 15 is the 
same; from 32 to 3 and 15 to 20 is the seat measure; from 5 to 2 and 14 to 31 is the waist 
measure; point 18 is halfway between 5 and 31 ; draw a line from 18 through 20 down ; from 
18 to 21 is the same distance as from 5 to 7 ; shape the side of forepart; from 16 to 17 is % 
breast; shape the bottom of forepart. 

Point 27 is halfway between N and L; square down from 27; take out between 28 and 
29 the surplus amount from between 18 and 31 ; the broken line as at 24-25 and 26-33 is the 
facing; from X to 26 and 6 to 33 is 1>4 inches each, and this is left on the facing for a but- 
ton stand- 

The collar for this coat is a standing collar and is made the same as shown on Dia- 
grams 47 and 48. 



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DIAGRAM no 



198 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 111 

COACHMAN'S OR GROOM'S FROCK UNDERCOAT. 

The measurements are as follows : 

Indentation lyi inches Strap 1^:54 inches 

Scye depth DJ^ inches Overshoiikler 18 inches 

Waist length 16.)4 inches Blade 13 ^4 inches 

Fashional)le waist length 1834 inches Breast 39 inches 

Full length 31) inches Waist 35^2 inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus ^4 inch; C is natural waist length; D is fashion- 
able waist length ; E is full length ; F" is halfway between .V and B ; G is halfway between 
A and F; square out from G, F, B, C, D and E. 

From C to R is ^ indentation; draw a straight line from A through R to Q and square 
down; from H to I is 3/ breast; I to J is I34 inches; J to 1-1 is .)4 inch; K is halfway. be- 
tween H and I; K to L is o^j inches; square down from L to locate M; apply the blade 
measure from EI to L which is ]334 inches and square up; N is halfway between II and L; 
N to O is 134 inches. 

From A to 24 is the same distance as from 11 to O; draw a line from O to 24 ; A to T is 
&}i inches; T to U is I34 inches; draw a line from A to U ; A to V is ;<; breast; square 
up from V to locate W ; draw a line from 34 '"^h below W to P ; from O to S is 3/3 breast 
plus 34 'nch ; square down from S and shape the back. 

From X to Y is 134 inches; square down from Y; 1 to 2 is -ji inch; point ;] is 3^ inch 
above the waist line; point Z is halfway between Y and M; shape the sidebody. 

THE FOREPART. 

From M to 1 is 3/ waist; square down from 1 ; this locates 11 ; from 11 to 13 is 34 inch 
less than M, breast; point 5 is halfway between M and 4; point (5 is halfway between L 
and J ; draw a line from 5 through 6 up ; from A to W and L to 7 is the strap measure plus 
% inch; draw a line from 7 to P ; from 7 to 23 is ^ inch less than the back shoulder 
width ; shape tiie shoulder and armscye. 

Square forwards from 7 by line .5-0 ; from 7 to 9 is }i breast plus % inch ; 7 to 8 is % 
breast; square forwards from 8 and shape the gorge. These coats are cut to button high 
up and are made with a short lapel and fronts close with five buttons: from 14 to 15 is 134 
inches; 4 to 13 is the same; shape the front edge. 

From 4 back to 27 is 2% inches; from Z to Y, X to R and 37 to 21 is the waist measure 
net; sha]ic the side and bottom of forepart. 

THE SKIRT. 

From Y to 25 is 9 inches; 25 to 26 is I34 inches; draw a line from 22 through 26 down; 
from 22 to 19 is 34 inch more than from S to 17; from 12 to 18 is the same distance as 
22 to 19; square down from 20 by the waist line; from 3 to 16 is % inch; shape the skirt 
and finish, rounding the latter ^ inch at 26. 



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19!) 



^(»^ W 




DlA(;RAi\l 111 



200 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 

DIAGRAM 112 
COACHMAN'S FROCK OVERCOAT. 

The measurements as taken over the waistcoat are as follows: 

Scye depth 9}^ inches Strap lo inches 

Natural waist length 17 inches Overshoulder 18J4 inches 

Fashionable waist 18;4 inches Blade 13^ inches 

Full length 46 inches Breast 40 inches 

(or whatever style calls for.) Waist 37 inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus ^ inch ; B to 30 is -^^ inch ; A to C is natural waist 
length; D is fashionable waist length; E is full length; F is halfway between A and 30; 
G is halfway between A and F; square out from (J, I*", B, 30, C, D and E. 

From C to R is ^4 '»ch ; draw a line from A through R to Q ; from H to 13 is 1 >4 inches ; 
13 to I is J/2 breast ; I to J is IJ/^ inches; J to 23 is 1 inch ; K is halfway between 13 and I ; 
K to L is Syi inches; square down from L to locate M; apply the blade measure from 13 
to L which is 13^/2 inches and square up; L back to 31 is yi inch; square up and down from 
31; N is halfway between H and 31; N to O is 1^ inches. 

From A to 28 is the same distance as H to O; draw a line from O to 28; A to T is fi^'^ 
inches; T to U is IJ/^ inches; draw a line from A to U ; A to V is /i breast; square up 
from V to locate W; draw a line from ^ inch below W to P ; from O to S is 3^ breast 
plus % inch ; square down from S and shape the back. 

THE SIDEBODY. 

From X to Y is 1J4 inches; 1 to 3 is ^ inch; O to 33 is A breast; point Z is half- 
way between Y and 40; point 3 is ^ inch above the waistline; shape the sidebody. 

THE FOREPART. 

From M to 4 is 3^ waist; square down from 4; this locates 11; from 11 to 14 is J/ 
inch less than J^ breast ; point 5 is halfway between M and 4; point (i is halfway between 
L and J ; draw a line from 5 through 6 up ; from A to W and L to 7 is the strap measure 
plus % inch ; draw a line from 7 to P ; 7 to 33 is f^ inch less than the back shoulder width ; 
shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forwards from 7 by line 5-6; from 7 to 9 is H breast plus ^4 inch; add 34 i"^li 
in front of 4 for a seam and shape the front edge from 9 through 33 down to 14; from 9 to 
10 is % breast; 7 to 8 is 3^ breast; draw a line from 8 to 10 and shape the gorge; 4 back 
to 17 is 2% inches; R to 39 is the same as from H to 13; from Z to Y, X to 29 and 17 to 31 
is the waist measure net; shape the side of forepart. 

THE REVER. 

Draw a straight line from 14 up to 36; sweep from 10 to 36 pivoting at 14; sweep 
from 14 forwards to 20, and backwards pivoting at 36; the rever width from 14 to 30 is 3 
inches; from 36 back to 37 is yi inch; round the rever slightly down from 37; 37 to 38 is 
43^ inches ; finish the rever as shown- 

THE SKIRT. 

Draw a straight line from (! into the sweep at 14; this locates jjoint 12; from 6 to 
24 is 134 inches; draw a line from 12 to 24 and square down; 24 to 35 is 9 inches; 25 to 
26 is iy2 inches ; draw a line from 24 through 26 down ; from 24 to 19 is 34 i'^ch more than 
from S to 18 ; 14 to 15 is the same distance as 34 to 19 ; square down from 30 by the waist 
line ; finish the skirt as shown, roiuiding it ^ inch at 36. 

^ THE COLLAR. 

A Prussian collar is to be worn with this coat, which collar is made as follows: draw 
a straight line from 10 through 7; 10 to 39 is 3^ the size of the shirt collar; the pro- 
portion shirt collar for a man of 40 breast would be 15'/> inches, therefore the distance from 
10 to 39 is 7>4 inches. 

Point 41 to 43 is 1 inch; shape the collar from 39 through 42 to 10; from 39 back to 45 
is the same distance as from A to W on the backpart ; place the square to points 39-45 and 
square up; 45 to 46 is 1>4 inches ; 46 to 47 is ^ inch; 39 to 43 is I34 inches; 10 to 44 is 3^ 
inch ; shape the collar stand from 43 through 46 to 44 ; from 43 to 48 is the width of the 
collar desired; shape the outer leaf of the collar and finish. 



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DIAGRAM 112 



202 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 

DIAGRAM 113 
FOOTMAN'S OR DOORMAN'S DRESS COAT. 

The measurements are as fuUuws: 

Indentation Ij/z inches Strap 12 inches 

Scye depth !) inches Overshoulder 17 inches 

Natural waist length 10^'^ inches Blade 12^ inches 

Fashionable waist length 1834 inches Breast 36 inches 

Full length o-l inches ^^'aist ^(2 inches 

(or according In the man's heighth.) 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus 34 iiudi ; C is natural waist length; D is fashion- 
able waist length; F^ is full length; F" is halfway between A and B; (i is halfway between 
A and F ; square out from G. F, B, C, D and E. 

F'roni C to R is '/. indentatiiiu ; draw a line fnmi A tiiruugh R to O and S((uare down; 
11 to I is jA breast; I to J is IJ/^ inches; J to I I is .^i inch; K is halfway between H and I; 
K to L is 33/) inches; square down from L to locate M; apply the blade measure from H 
to L, which is 'i2'jA inches and square up; N is halfway between H and L; N to O is IJ^ 
inches; from A to 24 is the same distance as from II to O; draw a line from O to 24. 

I""r(_im A to T is 6-}i inches; T to U is i}^ inches; draw a line from A to U ; A to V is 
'A breast; square ujj from V to locate W ; draw a line from 34 '"<-"'' below W to P ; Q to S is 
}i breast ; square down from S and shai)e the back. 

THE SIDEBODY. 

F>om X to Y is 134 inches; square down fioni ^■ ; I to 2 is .)4 inch ; point Z is halfway 
between Y and M; point ;! is 'j inch abo\ c tiie waistline; shape the sidebody. 

THE FOREPART. 

F>om M to 4 is 3<^ waist; square dt)wn from I to locate 11 ; 11 to 12 is 3^ inch less than 
'A breast; point 5 is halfway between M and I : puint (! is halfway between L and J; draw 
a line from T) thmugh <! up; from A to \V an<l 1. to 7 is the straj) measure plus f^ inch; 
draw a line f|-iini 7 to P; from 7 to '}'■) is ;]'« inch less than W to P; shape the shoulder 
and armscye. 

Square forwards hum 7 by line .")-(>; 7 to !» is ' 1, breast plus j/j inch; 4 back to 13 is 134 
inches; sha])e the front edge from through 1 I and 13 down to 15; !• to 10 is li breast; 7 
to 8 is 3/8 breast; draw a line from 8 to 10 and sliape the gorge; 4 back to 27 is 2 inches; Z 
to Y, X to R and 27 to 21 is the waist measure net ; shape the side and bottom of forepart. 

THE SKIRT. 

Fruni Y to 2.") is !t inches; 2.') to 2(J is lyj inches; draw a line from 2<> through 2() down: 
20 to 18 is 34 '"*^'i more than from S to 17; 12 to 28 is the same distance as 20 to 18; draw 
a line from 18 to 28; sliape the skirt as shown, rounding it % inch at 26. 

THE COLLAR. 

Draw a line from 10 through 7; 10 to 10 is two sizes more than the shirt collar; the 

proportionate size of shirt collar for a man, 36 breast, is I43/ inches, one-half of which is 734 

inches. The distance therefore from 10 to 10 is 8% inches; shape the collar from 19 into 

the gorge; square U|) from 10 to 22; 10 to 22 is tlic licighth of collar desired; 10 to 16 is 
the same; linish the collar as shown. 



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la £ 



DIAGRAM 113 



-oi AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 114 
FOOTMAN'S COATEE. 

The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth (}^ inches Overshoulder 17>^ inches 

Natural waist 10^4 inches Blade 13 inches 

Fashionable waist 18;./, inches Breast 38 inches 

FTdl length ;;c> inches Waist Si inches 

Strap I2>^ inches 

S(|uare down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus >4 inch ; C is natural waist length ; D is fashionable 
waist length: E is full length; F is halfway between A and B ; G is halfway between A 
and F"; square out from G, F, B, C, D and E. 

F^roni C to R is jA indentation; draw a line from A through R to Q and square down; 
H to I is y, breast; I to J is I'/z inches; K is halfway between H and I; K to L is 3>4 
inches; square down from L to locate M; apply the blade measure from H to L which is 
13 inclies and square up; N is halfway between FI and L; N to O is 1)^ inches; A to 31 is 
the same distance as H to O ; draw a line from O to 24. 

From A to T is G^^ inches; T to U is 1>4 inches; draw a line from A to U ; A to V 
is }(, breast; square up from V to locate W; draw a line from }i inch below W to P ; Q to 
S is 3^ breast ; square down from .S and shape the back. 

THE SIDEBODY. 

From X to Y is 134 inches; I to 3 is ■}i inch; O to K is I's breast; point Z is half- 
way between Y and M ; point 3 is 1/2 inch above the waist line ; shape the sidebody ; M 
to 4 is yi waist; square down from 4 to locate 11; 11 to 13 is J^ inch less than J-^ breast ; 
point 5 is halfway between M and 4 ; point 6 is halfway between L and J ; draw a line from 
5 through G up; A to W and L to 7 is the strap measure plus ^ inch; draw a line from 7 
to P ; 7 to 23 is y^ inch less than W to P ; shape the shoulder and armscye- 

Square forwards from 7 by line S-G ; 7 to 9 is Mi breast; 4 back to 13 is lj4 inches; 
shape the front edge from through J and 13 to 14 ; 9 to 10 is Vb breast; 7 to 8 is J^ breast; 
draw a line from 8 to 10 and shape the gorge; from 4 back to 27 is 2 inches ; from Z to Y, 
X to R and 27 to 31 is the waist measure net ; sha])e the side and bottom of forepart. 

THE SKIRT. 

From Y to 2.5 is 9 inches; 25 to 2(; is ly. inches; draw a line from 22 through 3G down; 
23 to 19 is 14 inch more than S to 17 ; 12 to 18 is the same distance as 33 to 19 ; draw a line 
from 18 to 19; point 16 is 5^ inch below point 3. From 15 to 20 is 1^ inches; from 20 to 34 
is y3 the distance of from 14 to 22; from 19 to 28 is the same distance as from 20 to 24; draw 
a line from 24 to 28. Cut the rever the same as for any other dress coat. 



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DIAGRAM 114 



206 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 115 
MESS JACKET. 

The mea'^urements are as follows: 

Scye depth 9 inches Overslumlder 17 inches 

Waist length IG inches Blade 13^ inches 

I'ashionable waist length llj^ inches Breast 36 inches 

Full length 20 inches Waist 32 inches 

Strap 12 inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus ^ inch ; C is waist length ; D is fashionable waist 
length; E is full length; F is halfway between A and B ; G is halfway betwen A and F; 
square out from G, F", B, C, D and E. 

From C to R is y'z indentation ; draw a straight line from A to R and square down ; from 
H to I is '1. breast; I to J is 1^ inches; J to l-i is J4 inch; K is halfway between H 
and I; K to L is 3^ inches; square down from L to locate M; apply the blade measure 
from H to L, which is IS^/^ inches and square up; N is halfway between H and L; N to O 
is 134 inches. 

From j\ to 'M is the same distance as H to O; draw a line from O to 24; from A to T 
is 6;]/8 inches; T to U is 'iy> inches; draw a line from A to U ; A to V is Vt breast; square 
up from \' to locate W; draw a line from ^ inch l)elow W to P ; from R to X is }i breast; 
S to 18 is I'll inches; shape the back. 

THE SIDEBODY. 

From X to Y is l^/^ inches; square down from Y; this locates 20; 20 to 17 is ^ inch 
more than from S to 18; 1 to 2 is ^ inch; O to K is -^i breast; point Z is halfway be- 
tween Y and M ; shape the sidebody. 

THE FOREPART. 

From M to 4 is 3^ waist; square down from 1 ; this locates 11 ; from 11 to \'i is jA inch 
less than li, breast; 12 to 28 is the saine distance as from D to E ; point U is halfway be- 
tween M and 4 ; point 6 is halfway between L and j ; draw a line from 5 through 6 up; A to 
\V and L to 7 is the strap measure plus ^i/J inch ; draw a line from 7 to P ; 7 to 23 is }i inch less 
than the backshoulder ; shape the shoulder ami armscye. 

Square forwards from 7 by line 5-6 ; 7 to 9 is % breast ; draw a rounding line from i> 
through 14 to 4 ; from 9 to 10 is Mi breast ; 7 to 8 is 3^ breast ; draw a line from 8 to 10 and 
shape the gorge ; add to the left forepart from 10 to 19, yi inch ; 14 to 22, 4 to 25 and 28 to 30 
the same; on the right front add from 19 to 29, 1% inches; 22 to 15, 25 to 13 and 30 to 26 is 
the same. 

From 4 back to 27 is 2J4 inches ; from Z to Y, X to R and 27 to 21 is the waist measure 
net ; shape the side and bottom of forepart- 

The collar is a standing one and is made the same as shown in other diagrams. 



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8(i; 




30 28 



DIAGRAM 115 



208 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 116 
CHAUFFEUR'S SACK. 

The measurements are as follows : 

Indentation V/i inches Overshoulder 18 inches 

Scye depth 93/2 inches Blade 13/4 inches 

Waist length J7 inches Breast 39 inches 

Full length 'i'i inches Waist 35^ inches 

Strap 18% inches Seat 41 J4 inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus ^4 inch ; C is waist length ; C to D is 6 inches ; A to 
E is full length; F is halfway between A and B ; G is halfway between A and F; square 
out from G, B, C, D and E. 

From C to 3 is ^4 inch ; draw a line from F to 2 and square down ; 1 to H is J4 breast ; 
11 to I is 1% inches; I to J is % inch; K is halfway between 1 and H; K to L is 3}<^ 
inches; square down from L to locate Q; apply the bhuie measure from 1 to L which is 
13^ inches and square up; M is halfway between 1 and L; M to N is 1^ inches; square 
up from N ; N to P is iV breast ; point 4 is halfway between M and N ; 22 to 7 is the same 
distance as from 1 to 4. 

From A to 8 is (>% inches; 8 to !) is 1^ inches; draw a line from A to 9 ; A to 10 

is ]b breast; square up from 10 to locate 11; draw a line from 34 iuch below 11 to O and 

shape the back; from (J to S is J/S waist; point T is halfway between Q and S; point U is 

halfway between L and I ; draw a line from T through U up. 

From A to 11 and L to V is the strap measure plus % inch ; draw a line from V to O; 
V to Z is % inch less than the back shoulder width; shape tlie shoulder and armscye ; 
square forwards from V by line T-U ; V to W is 'ii breast plus y2 inch; draw a rounding line 
from W to J ; from W to X is J^ breast ; V to Y is J^ breast ; draw a liiie from Y to X and 
shape the gorge; from J to 13 is SJX inches; S to 13 is the same; from Q to R is % inch; 
draw a line from R through S to 13 and square down by that line; this locates 16. 

From 16 to 17 is y& breast; from 6 back to 15 is the same distance as H to 12; 14 to 3 
and 15 to 20 is the seat measure; from 20 back to 19 is 2 inches; square up from 19 to locate 
18; draw a line from 18 through 20 down and shape the side of forepart; from 18 to 21 is 
the same distance as from 5 to 7 ; shape the bottom of forepart and finish. 

THE COLLAR. 

From V to 26 is the same distance as A to 11 on the backpart ; from 26 back to 24 is 
1 inch ; 29 to 30 is J4 inch ; shape the collar crease from 24 through V and 30 to X ; from 
24 to 28 is 1J4 inches; V to 23 is the same; X to 31 is ^ inch; from 24 to 25 is the width 
of the collar desired ; X to 32 is the same ; from V to 27 is % inch ; place the square to 27-24 
and square out to 25; shape the collar as shown by the broken line and finish. 



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209 




dia(;ram uo 



210 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 

DIAGRAM 117 

CHAUFFEUR'S OVERCOAT. 

Tlie measurements as taken over the waistcoat arc as follows: 

Scye depth 9^ inches Overshoulder 17j^ inches 

Waist length 17 inches Blade 13 inches 

Full length whatever heighth requires Breast 38 inches 

Strap 12J^ inches Waist '. 3i inches 

Square down and out from A; A to B is the scye depth ])lus ^4 inch; B to C is ^ inch; 
A to D is waist length plus ^ inch; D to 23 is (i inches; A to J-^ is full length; F is halfway 
between A and C; G is halfway between A and F; square out from G, B, C, D, 23 and E. 

From D to 2 is ^ inch; di'aw a line from I^ through 2 down; this locates 22; square 
forwards from 22; from 1 to 21 is 1}4 inches; if the material is hea\y it may- be 1^ or 2 
inches; 21 to H is J4 breast; H to I is 1% inches; 1 to J is ^'4 inch; K is halfway between 
21 and H; K to L is 3}4 inches; square down from L to locate Q; apply the blade measure 
from 21 to L which is 13 inches and square up.. 

From L back to 15 is ^ inch; M is halfway between 1 and 15; M to N is IJ/4 inches; 
square up and down from N ; from 19 to 6 is ly'i inches; 19 to 20 is 3^ inches or make the 
distance from G to 20, 5 inches ; draw a line from N through 6 down ; N to 4 is 1 inch ; -i to 3 
is J<2 inch; draw a line from 3 through 20 down; 3 to 18 is the same distance as from 3 to 5- 

From A to 8 is 63/g inches; 8 to 9 is Ij,^ inches; draw a line from A to 9 ; A to 10 is 'A 
breast; square up from 10 to locate 11; draw a line from 11 to U and shape the back; from 
Q to S is y2 waist; point T is halfway between Q and S; point U is halfway between L 
and I; draw a line from T through U up; A to 11 and L to \' is the strap measure plus •j4 
inch; draw a line from V to U ; from V to Z is % inch less than the back shoulder width; 
shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forwards from V by line T-U ; V to W is li breast plus J< inch; draw a line 
from W to J ; W to X is li breast; V to Y is J/^ breast: draw a line from Y to X and shape 
the gorge; X to 25 is •;4 inch; cut out a V a^ between X and 25; J to 12 is 3J,-2 inches; 
S to 13 is the same; Q to R is 1 inch; draw a line from R to 13 and square down bj' that 
line; this locates 1(1; IC to 17 is Ys breast; 12 to 24 is 1 34 int" lies. 

The button stand on this coat will he 83/ inches at the breast and 7'j inches frcmi the 
waist down; add from ^i to 7. 1 J4 inches; from 5 to 14 is the same ai>Q reshape the back 
as shown by the broken line. If a center plait is desired, add from G to 20, 2J4 to 3 inches 
and from 22 to 27 the same. 

THE COLLAR. 

Draw a straight line froni X through \^ : from X to 28 is the same as the size of the 
shift collar, in this case 7^4 inches; point 29 is halfway between X and 28; square up from 
29 ; from 29 to 30 is l}i inches ; shape the collar stand from 28 through 30 to X ; from 28 to 
31 is 1% inches; from X to 32 is ^4 inch; shape the collar crease from 31 through 33 
to 33 ; from 31 to 33 is the same distance as the top width of the back ; place the square to 
points 31-33 and square up to 34 ; from 33 to 34 is ^4 i'lcli : now place the square to points 
31-34 and square up to 35; 31 to 35 is the width of the collar desired; 32 to 36 is the same; 
shape the collar and finish as shown. 

The crease line of this collar after being ctit out will be found to be 9 inches more 
than the size of the shirt collar, in this case it is to be 8^4 inches plus 2 seams or 17 inches 
finished. 



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>7* 



DIAGRAM 117 



218 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 118 . 
RIDING SACK. 

'I'lie measurements are as follows: 

Scye depth ".> inches lilade ]"43'-' im-hes 

Waist lengtli 1 6 ' 4 inches Breast 'M inches 

Full length 84 inches Waist 3"2 inches 

Strap 12 inches Seat .'^8 inches 

( )vershoulder 1? inches 

Stiuarc (Inwn and <iut fnmi A. 

l'"rfim A to B is the scye depth net ; C is waist length ; C' tn 1) is (1 inclies ; .\ to li is full 
length; V is halfway between A and B; (I is halfway between .\ and 1'; square i)Ut from (1, 
B, C, I) and E. 

l'"r()ni C to 2.'i is '._. indcntatii m in this case ■'_! inch; draw a line from A to 2.'!; 23 to 2 
is the same as C to 23: square down fnmi 2; this locates 22: now shape the backpart from 
F to 2 and down; from I to 11 is >^ breast; H to 1 is ];Ki inches; I tn } is ^^4 inch; K is 
halfway between 1 and 11 ; K to L is 3J/ inches; square down from 1. to locate Q; apply 
the blade measure from 1 to L which is 13^ inches and square up. 

Point .M is halfway l)etween 1 and L; M to N is l^^ inches; sc|uarc up from X; N 
to ]' is 12 breast; N to 4 is -y^ inch; stiuare down from I to •"> ; 22 to 7 ts the same distance 
as I to 4; draw a line from •") to 1 ; a<l<l from 1 to 21, 1'4 nulies. 

I'Voni A to IS is l)f'8 inches: S to !) is I ' _> inches; draw a line from A to !i ; Irom A to 
1(1 is 'i breast; square up from in to locate 11 ; <lraw a line from I4 inch below 11 to O 
and shape the back; from (J to S is ^j waist ; point 1' is halfv\ay between Q and S; point 
U is halfway between L and 1; draw a line fnini 4" through L" up; A to 11 and L to V 
is the strap measure plus '4 inch; draw a line from \" to ( ). 

For a riding sack it is desirable to have the shoulder (|uite easy, therefore shape the 

shoulder above point Z ; \' to Z is ;}/8 inch less than the back shoulder width; shape the 

shoulder and armscye ; square forwards from \' by line 4"-U ; \' to W is 'i. breast; W to 

25 is 1 inch ; draw a line from 2.j t<i J ; \' to Y is ' ,h breast; stjuare forwards from Y and 

shape the gorge; | to 12 is 1 inch; S to 13 is the same; from Q to R is V4 indentation; 

draw a line from M tlirough ."s ; scpiarc down from ]'■> by line I-i-S ; this locates 10; Ifl to 17 
is % breast. 

P'rom <i back to If) is 3 inches; S to 14 is2'j inches; 19 to 3 and 1.") to 2(i is the seat 
measure; 5 to 2 and 14 to IS is the waist measure plus 3/j inch; draw a line from 18 
through 20 down; IS to 21 is the same distance as from 5 to 24 ; shape the bottom of fore- 
part and finish. 



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213 



s 

13*-®= 




^i $!»D 



# S)E 



DIAGRAM 118 



214 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 119 

RIDING SACK. (Continued). 

After the backpart and forepart have been cut out, split the front as from 26 down to 

27 and proceed as in this diagram: keep the pattern close at 26 and open it between 27 and 

28 about lyi inches; reshape the underarm tish as shown down to 18 and finish. 

This will give the coat the proper amount of drapery. 



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S7 28 

DIAGRAM 119 



216 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 120 
RIDING FROCK. 

The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth 9^ inches Overshoulder lli/s inches 

Natural waist length IQyi inches Blade 13 inches 

Fashionable waist length I814 inches Breast 38 inches 

Full length whatever style calls for. Waist 34 inches 

Strap 12J4 inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus 34 inch ; C is natural waist length ; D is fashionable 
waist length ; E is full length ; F is halfway between A and B : (i is halfway between A and 
F; square out from G, F, B, C, D and E. 

From C to R is >4 indentation; draw a straight line from .\ through R to Q and square 
down; H to I is >4 breast ; I to J is 1>4 inches; J to 14 is i/^ inch; K is halfway between 
H and I ; K to L is 3>4 inches ; square down from L to locate M ; apply the blade measure 
from H to L which is 13 inches and square up; N is halfway between H and L; N to O 
is 134 inches; from A to 24 is the same distance as H to O; draw a. line from O to 24. 

From A to T is Gys inches; T to U is V/> inches; draw a line from A to U ; A to V is 
% breast ; square up from V to locate W ; draw a line from J4 inch below W to P ; from 
Q to S is >^ breast; square down from S and shape the back; X to Y is 1^4 inches; 1 to 
2 is .54 inch; point Z is halfway between Y and M; point 3 is yi inch above the waistline; 
shape the sidebody as shown- 

From M to 4 is ^ waist; square down from 4; this locates 11 : 11 to 12 is ^ breast 
less 1 inch. In a riding frock it is necessary to have the front waist short so that when 
sitting on a horse the coat should not break above the waist seam. 

Point 5 is halfway between M and 4; point 6 is halfway between L and J ; draw a line 
from 5 through 6 up ; A to W and L to 7 is the strap measure plus ^ inch; draw a line 
from 7 to P ; 7 to 23 is }i inch less than W to P ; shape the shoulder and armscye ; square 
forwards from 7 by line 5-6 ; 7 to 9 is' Ve breast plus J4 '"ch ; draw a rounding line from 9 
to 14 ; 7 to 8 is 3/^ breast ; square forwards from 8 and shape the gorge ; from 4 back to 27 
is 2>4 inches; Z to Y, X to R and 27 to 21 is the waist measure net; shape the side and 
bottom of forepart. From 14 to 15 is 1J4 inches; 4 to 13 is the same. 

THE SKIRT. 

Draw a straight line from 12 to 22 ; this locates point IG ; 22 to 20 is 1 inch; draw a 
line from 16 to 20 and square down; from 20 to 25 is 9 inches; 25 to 26 is 1>^ inches; 
draw a line from 20 through 26 down; 20 to 19 is '^ inch more than from S to 17; 12 to 18 
is the same distance as 20 to 19; draw a line from 19 to 18; round the skirt ^ inch at 26; 
shape the front edge and finish. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



21'; 



16(1 )/ (8® ®- 



13H 




DIAGRAM 1?n 



318 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 

DIAGRAM 121 
COLLARS. 

Figure 1 shows a collar made up with a >traight crease; after deciding upon the length 
of the lapel, go out from A to B," 1)4 inches; this represents the collar stand; draw a line 
from the lapel, crease through B; from E to D is 1)4 inches; from C to D is >4 inch more 
than the top width of the back; square down from E to D by line B-E ; swing out the 
collar about 14. inch at E and make the distance from E to E according to the style of 
collar desired. and shape. 

For a long roll the collar is made as shown on figure 2. As the crease is to be straight, 
this collar is made up in the same manner as described for figure ]._ From A to B is 1% 
inches; draw a line for the crease through B; C tu D is 34 inch more than the top width 
of the back; shape the collar the same as in figure 1. 

F"igure 3 shows a collar made up slightly horse-sh(je, or a rounded collar slightly hol- 
lowed at the crease line. It is made as follows: A to B is 1 inch; draw a line through 
B; this locates E; from E to G is j^ inch; (1 to H is 134 inches; draw a line from H to 
A; from C to H is the same as the top width of the back, plus 34 inch; square up from H 
to G by line A-H swing out the collar about 3/4 inch at F ; G to E is the width of collar 
desired ; shape the collar. This collar must be slightly shrunk on the crease. 

For a man with a short neck or for a fat man's coat, the collar should be made as 
shown on figure 4. F^rom A to B is ;54 inch; draw a line from the lapel crease through B; 
this locates E; from E to (! is 1 inch; ( 1 to 11 is the same; draw a line as from H through 
C to A ; from C to li is 3/4 inch nmrc than the toj) width of l)ack ; s(|uarc up from H to G by 
line H-C and finish the collar. 

F'igure 5 shows how to make an ulster collar to either roll or button ; this collar is made 
as follows: from A to B is 134 inches; draw a line through B; C to D is I34 inches; D 
to F' is the same; draw a line from F^ through V to A; from F' to ]•". is the same as the top 
width of back plus 34 inch; from F" to (1 is 1 J-4 inches; sliapc the collar crease from I) 
through G into the crease line ; square up from G. 

From G to H is -34 inch; place the square to point D-H and scjuare up; make the outer 
leaf of collar according to style desired and finish. 

To have this collar button up to the neck jM-oceed as follows: go up from D to I, ^ 
inch and make another collar stand as from I to J. In the making up of this collar the canvas 
should be cut on the bias and then bent in at line 1-B-J. Bot4i the stand and leaf should 
be treated in this manner so that when rolled up, the collar will break on that line. 

Figure 6 shows how to make a standing collar, also a standing rolling collar- This collar 
is made as follows: draw a line from A through C; from A to B is 1 inch more than 34 of 
the shirt collar size. This collar when finishe 1 must measure 2 inches more than the shirt 
collar; draw a line from B through O into the gorge; square up from B by line B-D ; 
from B to V. is tiie width of the collar desired plus a scam; A to F is the same, shape the 
collar as siiown by the solid line. 

F"or a standing rolling collar proceed as follows: hollow the outer leaf at G about 3/2 
inch; place the standing collar so as line E-G- will touch on the broken line corresponding 
at those points; shape out as from E to H and from F to I; now cut out the outer leaf the 
same as shown by the broken line; those two parts of the collar arc to be sewn together 
at line E-G-F. 

All the other style collars are shown and described in conjunction with the \arious coat 
diagrams. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



219 




DIAGRAM l:.'! 



my AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 122 

SINGLE-BREASTED NO-COLLAR WAISTCOAT. 

In measuring for a waistcnat, all that is needed is the opening and full length measure- 
ments, otherwise the same measurements are used as for a coat. 

The measurements for this waistcoat are as follows: 

Scye depth 9 inches Breast 36 inches 

Waist length IGJ/ inches Waist 32 inches 

Strap 12 inches Opening 11 1/2 inches 

Overshoulder 17 inches Full length 253/2 inches 

Blade 12>< inches . 

Square down and out fr(jm .\. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus J/4 inch ; C is waist length ; C to D is 2^ inches; this 
distance may be increased or decreased according to your own individual ideas; E i's half- 
way between .\ and B ; F is halfway between A and E; square out from F, B. C. and D. 

From C to 2 is -}{i inch ; draw a line from E to 2 ; this locates 1 ; from 1 to G is "^ breast ; 
(; to H is 134 inches; H to 1 is ^ inch; J is halfway between 1 and G ; J to K is 3 inches ; this 
makes the waistcoat one size smaller than the coat; square down from K to locate L; apply 
the blade measure minus v-< inch from ] to K, which in this case is 12 inches and square up; 
X is halfway between 1 and K; from X to 3 is '/. inch; s(|uare up from 3; this locates 20; 
from 20 to W is 1 inch. 

From A to S is 6^ inches; S to T is I'/z inches; draw a line from A to T ; from A to 
\J is 14 breast; square up from U to locate V; draw a line from V to W; now add 54 i'lfh to 
the shoulder heighth as at 5-4, also add a seam on top of line A-\'. 

From L to M is 34 waist; N is halfway between L and M ; O is halfway between K and 
H ; draw a line from N through O up ; A to 5 and K to I* is the strap measure plus ^ inch; 
draw a line from P to W ; from P to R is ^ inch less than 5 to 4 ; go forwards from K about 
•)4 inch and shape the shoulder and armscye ; square forwards from P by line N-O ; P to Y 
is '/b breast plus l^ inch ; shape the front edge from Y through I and M down. 

From P to Q is 1 inch; from P to 11 is 34 inch less than from .\ to 5 on the backpart ; 
draw a line from 11 to Q; make the depth of the neckpiece as from Q back I34 inches; 
apply the opening measure as from 11 to wherever it comes, adding in this case only 34 
inch and the full length down to Z jilus .V4 inch. 

From L to 6 is 1 inch ; j to 12 is 1 I/4 inches; draw a line frcim 12 to 6 and shape the side 
and bottom of forepart; 7 is halfway between 2 and 6; from 7 to 8 is 34 vvaist; 7 to 9 is 34 
waist plus .^4 inch; shape the center of back through 9 and the side from 12 through 8 to 
10; lengthen the back at 10, 3/g inch and finish. 

If the overshoulder is to be used, apply it in the same way as shown on sack coat, add- 
ing 1 inch to it. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



221 




DIACRAM n-i 



2S2 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 123 

SINGLE-BREASTED WAISTCOAT WITH NOTCH COLLAR 

The measurements are as follows: 

Scye depth i>y» inches Breast 38 inches 

Waist length 17 inches Waist My2 inches 

Strap 123/4 inches Opening 13 inches 

Overshoulder 17^^ inches Full length 26^ inches 

Blade 13 inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is scye depth plus 34 inch; C is waist length; C to D is 2^4 inches; E is 
halfway between A and B ; F is halfway between A and E : square ciut frcmi !•", B, C and D. 

From C to 2 is 3,^ inch ; draw a line frc^m E to 2 ; this locates 1 ; 1 to G is j/S breast; G to 
H is 134 inches; H to I is ^ inch; J is halfway between 1 and (j ; J to K is 3 inches; 
square down from K to locate L; apply the blade measure minus 34 inch from 1 to K, in 
this case it is 123/4 inches; square up. 

X is halfway between 1 and K; X to 3 is y^ inch; s(|uare uji fmiu 3; this locates 20; 
20 to \V is linch; A to S is 0^ inches; S to T is 1 ' .. inches; draw a line from A to T; A 
to U is J^ breast; square up from U to locate \' ; draw a line from \' to W ; add on 34 inch 
to the shoulder as at line ■'")-4 ; also add 34 inch on top of back as at A-V. 

From L to M is 34 waist; point N is halfway between L and M ; () i^ halfway between 
K and H ; draw a line from N through ( ) up; A to 5 and K to P is the straj) measure plus .V4 
inch; draw a line from P to W ; from P to R is % inch less than ') to 4 ; go forwards from K 
^ inch and shape the shoulder and armscye as shown ; sc|uare forwards from P by line N-O ; 
from P to Q in this case is J4 inch- This vest being cut with a collar it does not lose a seam 
at Q as the collar is sewed on flat. 

From P to Y is '0 breast plus 3-4 inch; shai)e the front edge from Y through I and M 
down; apply the opening measure plus % inch in this case from A to 5 and P to I, also the 
full length plus 1 inch from A to 5 and P to Z ; from L to (i is 1 inch; from J to 12 is I34 
inches; draw a line from 12 to C> and shape the side of forepart and finish. 

Point 7 is halfway between 2 and (5; from 7 to 8 is 34 waist; 7 to 9 is 34 waist plus 34 
inch; draw a line from 12 to 8 and shape the side of backpart, also the center seam; finish 
the vest as usual, adding ^ inch to the backpart as 10. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



•223 




DIAGRAM 123 



224 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 124 

I'his diagram shows a waistcoat for a figure with a large blade. The measurements 
are the same as in the previous diagram except that the blade measure is I'Syi inches. 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus ^4 inch; C is waist length; C to D is 2^ inches; E 
is halfway between A and B ; F is halfway between A and E : square out from F, B, C and 
D. 

F'rom C to 2 is ^ inch ; draw a line from E tu 2 ; 1 to (j is ^2 breast ; G to H is iy4 inches ; 
H to I is ^ inch; J is halfway between 1 and (j; from J to K is 3 inches; square down 
from K to locate L ; apply the blade measure minus '/2 inch from 1 to Z, in this case it is 
13 inches; square up and down from Z ; X is halfway between 1 and Z ; X to 3 is }4 inch; 
square up from 3. 

P"rom 20 to W is 1 inch; A to 12 is 3/2 of the tlistancc between K and Z, in this case ^ 
inch; draw a line from 12 to E and shape the center seam as shown by the broken line; 
from 12 to S is 6^ inches ; S to T is lyi inches ; draw a line from A to T ; 12 to U is % breast ; 
square up frdm U to locate V; draw a line from \" to W ; from L to M is 1/2 waist; point N 
is halfway between 6 and M ; point O is halfway between Z and H ; draw a line from N 
through O up. Otherwise finish the vest the same as shown in diagrams 122 and 123. 



DIAGRAM 125 

This diagram shows how to make a waistcoat lor a figure with a flat hack and full chest. 
The measurements are the same as described in the previous diagrams with the exception 
that the blade is 12' 2 inches instead of l.'i inches. 

Square down and out from .\. 

From A to B is scye depth plus J4 inch; C is wajst length; E is halfway between A 
and B ; F is halfway between .\ and E; square out from F, B and C. 

From C to 2 is 4-4 inch ; draw a line from E to 2 ; from 1 to G is 3/2 breast ; G to H is 
1J4 inches; H to I is ^ inch; J is halfway between 1 and (J; from J to K is 3 inches; square 
down from K to locate L; apply the blade measure minus '/i inch from 1 to Z, in this case it 
is 12 inches; square up and down from Z ; X is halfway between 1 and Z ; X to 3 is J/^ 
inch ; square up from 3. 

From A back to 12 is }4 of the distance of from K tt> Z, in this case J/4 inch ; draw a 
line from 12 to E; 12 to S is 6^ inches; S to T is lJ/4 inches; draw a line from A to T ; 
from 12 to U is ^ breast; square up from U to locate \' ; draw a line from V to W; from 
L to M is ^ waist; point N is halfway between 6 and M ; point O is halfway between Z and 
H ; draw a line from N through O up. 

From 12 to 5 and Z to P is the strap measure plus ^ inch ; shape the back from 12 to E as 
per broken line. Otherwise finish the waistcoat the same as shown on the other diagrams. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



225 



DIAGRAM 124 




DIAGRAM 123 



•^'■^'•i AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 126 

DOUBLE-BREASTED WAISTCOAT. 

Tlie measurements are as follows: 

Scye depth dy'z inches Blade •. . 13 j4 inches 

Waist length IT inches Breast 3d inches 

Strap 12^ inches Waist 351/2 inches 

Overshoulder 18 inches 

Sf|uare dinvn and out frnm A. 

From A to B is scye depth plus j/4 inch; C i> waist length; (_' to D is 2}^ inches; E is 
halfway between A and B; F is halfway between A and E; square out from F, H, C and D- 

From C to 2 is '-y^ inch; draw a line from F to 2; from 1 to (i is j/.. breast; G to H is 
\^/4 inches; H to I is 54 '"ch ; J is halfway between 1 and (i ; from j to K is 3 inches; square 
down from K to locate L; apply the blade measure minus ^'2 inch from 1 to K, in this case 
1334 inches and square up; X is halfway between 1 and K; from X to 3 is y'j inch; square 
up from 3 to locate 20; 20 to W is 1 inch; A to S is 6^ inches; S to T is I'/i inches; draw a 
line from A to T. 

From A to U is '/b breast ; square up from U to locate \' ; draw a line from V to \V ; add 
on ^4 inch as at o-l. also 34 inch on top of back; from E to M is 'j waist; point N is half- 
way between L and M ; point O is halfway between K and H ; draw a line from N through O 
up ; from A to 5 and K to P is the strap measure jilus ^4 inch ; draw a line from P to W ; P to 
R is ^ inch less than 5 to 4; go forwards J^ '"'^h from K and square up; shape the shoul- 
<ier and armscye. 

From M back to 13 is '2 inch ; tlraw a line from 13 through I up and down ; from P to 11 
is J4 inch less than A to Ti on the backpart ; frcmi 1' to O is 1 inch; draw a line from 11 
to Q and finish the top neckpiece. 

Apply the opening measure plus '^4 inch fnmi II tn 17, and the full length plus 94 iticli 
from 11 to Z; draw a line from Q through 17 ddwn; make the button stand from 15 to Iti 
according to style; from Z to M is 134 inches; draw a line from 14 to 16; add on ^ inch in 
front of 16-14 which is for the make-up of edge and the button-hole; from L to 6 is 1 inch; 
f to 12 is 1J4 inches; draw a line from 12 through (i and shape the side of forepart. 

7 is halfway between 2 and 6 ; 7 to S is J4 waist ; 7 to 9 is ^4 waist plus -54 inch ; shape 
the center and side of backpart and finish, adding tn the fiackpart ->8 inch at 10. 

Where a double-breasted waistcoat is cut withnut a separate re\er, it is well to cut a 
fish through the pocket as shown on tliis diagram. 



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14 Z 



DIAGRAM 126 



228 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 127 

After the forepart is cut out, crease it over as at line 17-Z; shape ofif the Ijottom ; mark 
the buttons and buttonholes as shown and finish. 



DIAGRAM 128 

If a waistcoat is cut with a separate rcver proceed as on Diagrams \2S and !>'!•. l'"ini>li 
your vest regular, after which cut ofif 34 inch from the front edge of the forepart all the 
way down, following the regular line as shown by those diagrams. After which proceed 
as follows: draw a straight line from 17 to Z ; make the distance from Z to 14, IJl- inches 
or according to your own ideas; make the width at l(i about Ji'l inches and draw a line as 
from l(i to 14. Add % inch in front of line l(i-14 for the makeup of the edge and buttonholes. 

Reshape the neck as from 1 through IT down; add in front oi IT-Ki about 'j inch for 
two seams. This style of vest should be made with a collar. To make the collar for this 
style of vest proceed as follows: go down from 1 to 2, 34 <^'f breast; square out from 'i to 4 
by line 1-2; make the distance from 2 to 3 about l'v4 inches and from ."> to 4 the width of 
the lapel desired; go up from 4 to 5 about 1 inch; from 2 to (i is the same <listance as 
from 2 to ;]. Draw an imaginery line for a seam as from ;i to (i ; now shape the collar as 
desired; this is shown so as to give an idea of about the proportionate length of the collar 
and lapel. 



DIAGRAM 129 

After the rever is cut off place it to the forepart as at line Z and reshape the bottom 
as shown. 



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W4 




C5 



< 
< 

Q 



00 
0« 



<: 

■Pi 
o 
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O 

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•^30 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 130 

SINGLE-BREASTED NO-COLLAR VEST FOR A STOUT FIGURE 

The measurements are as follows: 

Scye depth 9>4 inches Breast 40 inches 

Waist length 17 inches Waist 40 inches 

Strap 13 inches Opening ISJ/^ inches 

Overshoulder 18^ inches Full length 273/^ inches 

Blade ISyi inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth jjlus '-4 inch; C is waist length; C to D is 3^ inches; 
E is halfway between A and B : F is halfway between A and F. ; square out from F, B, C and 
D. 

From C to 3 is ^ inch ; draw a line from E to 2 ; from 1 to G is I/2 breast ; G to H is 
1% inches; H to I is 3<J inch; square up a short line from I; J is halfway between 1 and G; 
J to K is 3 inches; square down from K to locate L; apply the blade measure minus yi 
inch from 1 to K, in this case, 13 inches and square up; X is halfway between 1 and K ; X to 
3 is yi inch ; square up from 3 ; this locates 20. 

From 20- to W is 1 inch; A to S is 6^ inches ; S to T is IJ/2 inches; draw a line from 

A to T ; A to U is % breast ; square up from U to locate V ; draw a line from V to W ; 

add J4 inch to the back shoulder as at line 5-4, also add % inch to the top of back ; from L 

to M is yi waist ; N is halfway between L and M ; Q is halfway between K and H ; draw a 

line from N through O up-; A to 5 and K to P is the strap measure plus ^ inch ; draw a line 

from P to W ; from P to R is ^ inch less than 5 to 4 ; go forwards 34 inch from K and square 
up; shape the shoulder and armscye 

Square forwards from P by line N-O ; P to Q is 1 inch; P to 11 is J4 inch less than 
A to 5 on the backpart ; draw a line from 11 to Q and finish the neckpiece. From P to Y is 
% breast plus J/^ inch ; square forwards from O by line N-O ; this locates 18 ; shape the front 
edge from Y through 18 and M down; apply the opening measure plus J4 inch from 11 to 
the opening, also apply the full length of the waist coat plus ^ inch from 11 to Z ; from L 
to 6 is 1 inch ; J t(.i 12 is 1 J4 inches; draw a line from 12 to 6 and shape the side and bottom 
of forepart. 

Point 7 is halfway between 2 and 6 ; 7 to 8 is ^ waist; 7 to 2 is J4 waist plus }i inch; 
add yi inch to the backpart at 10, also add ]/2 inch to the forepart at the same point, be- 
cause the pocket will be cut open as at line 6, and two seams will have to come out of there. 



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DIAGRAM i:iit 



233 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 131 

After the forepart is cut out and the pocket is cut open, proceed as shown in diagram 
131 : overlap the forepart as from C to D about ' S inch, allowing it to open as between A 
and B ; this will give the amount of convexity necessary to go over the stomach. Reshape 
the bottom. 



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DIAGRAM 131 



rM AMERICAN GA R M ENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 132 
SINGLE-BREASTED WAISTCOAT FOR A CORPULENT FIGURE 

J'he ineasurenK'nts artr as fiilluws: 

Scye depth 9f^ inches Breast 42 inches 

Waist length 17 inches Waist 44 inches 

Strap 131/2 inches Opening 14 inches 

rjvershnulder 19 inches Full length 2Sy2 inches 

Blade 14 inches 

Square down and mit fmm A. 

A to R is the scye depth plus ^ inch; C is -waist length; C to D is 2^ inches; E is half- 
way between A and R ; F is halfway between A and E ; square out from F, B, C and D. 

C to 2 is ■>'4 incii ; draw a line from E to 2 ; from 1 to ('• is Vi breast ; (i to H is 1% inclie'- ; 
H to I is y4 inch; square up a short line from I; J is halfway between 1 and Ci : from I to 
K is 3 inches: square down from K to locate L; apply the blade measure minus Vz inch 
from 1 to K. in this case it is 131, inches and square up. 

X is halfway between I and K; from X to 3 is Vj inch ; square up from .'! to locate 2(i ; 2(i 
to W is 1 inch; from A to S is (5;J^ inches; S to T is 1 '-j inches; draw a line from A to T ; 
A to U is ■-'IS breast; square up from U to locate \' ; draw a line from \' to W ; add ^4 inch to 
the shoulder as at 5-4, also !4 '"ch on top (^f back. 

L to M is 1/3 waist; X is halfwa} betwcfti I, and W ; () is halfway between K and H: 
draw a line from N through O up; from A to 5 and K to V is the strap measure plus ^ 
inch ; draw a line from P to \\' ; from P to R is Ks inch less than from 5 to 4 ; shape the shoul- 
der and armscye. 

Square forwards from P by line N-O ; also square forwards from O by same line; this 
locates 18; from P to Y is % breast plus y^ inch; shape the front edge from Y through 18 
and M down; if the vest is to be with a collar, go out from P to Q 14 '"ch : if without a col- 
lar 1 inch ; apply the opening measure plus ^ inch from A to 5 and P to the opening, also 
applv the full length measure plu> 1 inch from A to 5 and P to Z. 

I'Vom I. to fi is 1 inch: J to 13 is 1% inches; draw a line from 12 to fi and shape the 
side and bottom of forepart: point " is halfway between 2 and fi ; 7 to 8 is ^4 waist ; 7 back 
to 2 is % waist plus 3,4 inch ; shape the center of back and also the side ; add '4 inch to the 
liackpart at 10 and finish. 

For a coipulent man it is well to set a V in as shown at point 7 : this will keeji the 
backpart of the vest easy across the hip and gi\e it the proper sha))e. 

.\ftei- the backpart is cut out, open the pocket and manipulate it in the same way as 
shown on diagram 131. 



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DIAGRAM 132 



236 AMERICAN GAKMRNT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 133 

DOUBLE-BREASTED VEST FOR A STOUT FIGURE 

The measurements arc as folk)\vs: 

Scye depth ".tj-^ iiiclies Breast 4:^ inches 

Waist lengtli 17 inches Waist 4"-i inches 

Strap 13' S inches (Jpening l.'i inches 

Overshoulder I!* inches Full length ^y,' j inches 

Blade M inches 

Square down and uut Irimi A. 

A to B is the scye deptli pins '4 inch; C is waist length; C to D is 2^4 inches; ]\ is 
halfway between A and B ; h" is halfway between A and E; square out from F, B, C and D- 

C to 2 is •)'4 inch; draw a line frcmi I-", tn 2; from 1 to G is 'j breast; (J to H is 134 inches; 
H to I is J4 inch; square uj) a siiort line frnin I ; J is halfway between 1 and (i ; J to K is I! 
Indies; square down from K to locate L; ap])ly the blade measure minus 'j inch from J to K 
and square up; X is halfway between 1 and K; X to II is ' ,. inch; s((uarc up from ■'< \n lucate 
20; 20 to W is 1 inch; from A to S is IJ^g inches; S to T is I'j inches; draw a line trcmi 
A to T. 

From A to U is 'i breast; s([uare up from U to locate V; draw a line from \' tn W ; adil 
J/4 inch tct the slioulder as at .vl, also add '4 inch to the top i.if back; frcmi L to M is y'2 
waist; jxiint X is halfway between L and M; point () is halfway between K and 11; draw 
a line from X througli O up; fn mi A to 5 and K to P is the strap measure i)lus j^ inch; 
draw a line from P to \V ; from P to R is yg inch less tiian 5 to I ; shape tlie shdulder and 
armscye. 

Square forwards from P by line N-O also scjuare forwards from O by the same line ; 
this locates 18; from P to (J is 1 inch ; from P tn 11 is 3/4 inch less than A to 5 on the back- 
l)art ; draw a line from 1 1 to Q and finish tiie neckpiece. 

l-"r(im M l)ack to Pt is 'j inch; draw a line from ]<S thniugh Ii» dnwn ; apply the oi)ening 
measure plus 5,4 inch from VI to the o])ening. also api)ly the full length measure plus -^4 
inch from 11 to Z ; draw a line from O through the npening down; make the width from Z 
to 14 and 1.") t<i 1(> according to style, also add j^ inch in front of line 1(1-1 I fur the making 
up of the edge and the buttoniioles. 

From L back to C is 1 inch; J to 12 is \% inches; shape the side of forepart from 12 
through (i down; also add I2 inch to the forepart and backpart at 10; point 7 is halfway 
between 2 and 6; from 7 to 8 is ^4 waist; from 7 to 2 is 34 waist plus .V4 inch; cut out the 
forepart and backpart ; cut in the pocket as at <1 and mani])ulate the iiattern the same as 
shown on diagram 134. 



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DIAC.KAM i;'.;i 



2;i8 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 134 

In cutting a double-lireasted waistcoat for a stout figure it is well, besides overlapping 
the forepart as between 1 and 2, to cut in the breast pocket as from !) to 1(1; open the pocket 
as from 10 to T and o\erlap it as between 5 and (! about Vg inch, after which adtl a seam 
to lines 8 and 9; this will not alone work around over the stomach but will also shorten 
the neck line so as to keep the opening from being loose. 



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DIAGRAM 134 



840 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 135 
SINGLE-BREASTED DRESS WAISTCOAT 

'I'lie measurements are as follows: 

Scye depth 9 inches Breast 3G inches 

Waist length 16^ inches Waist 33 inches 

Strap 13 inches Opening according to style 

Overshoulder IT inches Fidl length 25>^ inches 

Blade I^JS inches 

Square <lo\vn and out from A. 

l'"roni A til 11 is the scye depth plus '4 i'l'-"'' : ^ i"^ waist length ; C to D is 234 inches; E is 
hallway hetween A and B; F is halfway between A and ]■", ; square nut from I*", B, C and D. 

From C to 2 is "/4 inch; draw a line from 1'^. to 2; 1 to (i is y, breast; (i to H is I1-4 
inches: H to I is }i inch; J is halfway between 1 and (i; j to K is :! inches; square down 
from K to locate L; apply the blade measure minus ' _. inch fmni 1 tu K, in this case 12 
inches and square up; X is halfway between 1 and K; X tn :! is ij inch; square up from 3 
to locate 20; 20 to \V is 1 inch; A to S is 6}i inches; S to T is XjA inches; draw a line from 

A u>'r. 

Frohi A til U is % breast ; square up from U to locate \' ; draw a line frum \' tn W : ai-ld 
^ inch to the shoulder as at '>-[. also add 34 'H'^'i to the top of back; L to M is y2 waist: 
point N is halfway between L and M; point () is halfway between K and H; draw a line 
from N through O up; from A to 5 and K to P is the strap measure plus 34 inch draw a line 
from P tn W ; from P to R is 3^ inch less than 5 to 4; go forwards 3/4 inch from K and square 
up; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

From P to is 1 inch; apply the o])cning measure jilus 3 J inch from A to Ti and from P 
to wherever the opening comes, also full length plus 1 inch frum A lu ■< and 1' tn Z; shape 
the front edge from I through AI down; from M back to Y is '1'. breast; draw a line from Y 
to Q; shape the opening, adding a little round to the straight line as shown in this diagram ; 
from L to is 1 inch; I to 12 is 1 '4 inches; shape the side and bottom of forepart. 

Point 7 is halfwav between 2 and (1 ; from 7 to 8 is % waist; 7 to 9 is '4 w-aist plus 34 
inch; shape the center and sideseam of backpart and finish. 

The collar, like all other waistcoat collars, is cut flat ; no stand. 



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DIAGRAM 135 



242 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 136 
DOUBLE-BREASTED DRESS WAISTCOAT 

As shown in this diagram this waistcoat is made as follows: line A-C is tlie regular edge 
of a single-breasted waistcoat; go back from A to B j/ inch and from C to D the same; draw 
a straight line from B through D down ; this locates the center line; from Z to ]4 is 1J4 
inches; Y to 15 is 2VS inches; draw a line from IT) tlmmgh J4; add ^^ inch in front of line 
14-15 for the makeup of the edge and buttonholes. 

Measure the opening plus ^4 '"ch the same as shown in the other waistcoat; go back 
from line C to 16, 'li breast; draw a line up to the side of the neck point; reshape as shown, 
after which crease over the front part on the center line B-Z and reshape the bottom the 
same as shown on diagram 127. 

DIAGRAM 137 

This diagram shows how to make a doui)le-l)rcasted waistcoat with a V shaped front 
Line A-D is the center line of frirepart ; from A to B is SJj inches; D to E is 3',^ inches; 
draw a line from B through L; add Sr inch fur makeup in front of line B-F. and reshape 
the front; crease over as at line A-E and mark the buttons and buttrmholes as shown. 



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344 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 138 

CLERGYMAN'S WAISTCOAT 

As the measuremeiUs fur waistcoats are inxariahly tlie same, it is not necessary to 
rejjeat same in each case. Therefore the measurements for this waistcoat are the same as in 
previous diagrams. 

Scjuare drnvn and out from A. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus ^ inch; C is waist length; C to D is 2^ inches; 
E is halfway between A and B ; F is halfway between A and E; square out from F, B, C 
and D. 

C to 2 is j/i inch ; draw a line from E tn 2; imm 1 to (i is l^ breast ; G to H is 1 J4 inches; 
H to I is -V^ inch; J is halfway between 1 and (i; | to K is I! inches; square dnwn from K 
to locate L; apply the lilade measure minus ' .. inch from 1 to K and square uj) ; X is halfway 
between 1 and K; from X to 3 is 'S inch; square up from 3 to locate '20; from 20 to \\' is 1 
inch; A to S is G^ inches; S to T is I],-! inches; draw a line from A to T. 

From A to U is '& breast ; square up from L' to locate \' ; draw a line from \' to W ; add 
^ inch to the shoulder as at 5-4, also add J4 i"^-"li to the top of back; from L to M is J,.^ 
waist; point N is halfway between L and J\l ; point () is halfway between K and H ; draw a 
line from N through O up; from A to b and K to P is the strap measure plus .)4 inch; draw 
a line from P to W ; from P to R is }i inch less than 5 to 4 ; go forwards .)4 i'^ch from K and 
square up; shape the shoulder and armhole. 

Square forwards from P by line N-< ") ; P to Y is 'i breast plus '/> inch; shape the front 
edge from Y through I and M down; from Y to Q is 34 inch less than % breast; P to 11 
is y4 inch less than y» breast; draw a line from 11 to Q and shape the gorge; add on a seam 
at the gorge as at P-Q ; apply the ftiU length measure plus 1 inch from A to o and P down; 
L to (J is 1 inch; 1 to 12 is ^l/^ inches; shape the side and bottom of forepart; point 7 is half- 
way between 2 and C> ; 7 to 8 is }4 waist ; 7 to 9 is I4 waist plus .^4 inch ; shape the center and 
sideseam of back. 

THE COLLAR 

From Q to 12 is '-^ inch; draw a line from 12 through P; from 12 to 13 is 1 inch more 
than y2 of the shirt collar size; shape the collar from 13 into the gorge line; from 13 to 14 
is the heighth of the collar desired; make the distance from 12 up the same as from 13 to 
11 ; shape the collar and finish. 



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DIAGRAM 138 



246 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAMS 139 & 140 

These diagrams show how a clergyman's waistcoat may be made to button on the side 
with a seam in the center front. Diagram 139 : after the regular waistcoat has been cut out 
as explained in diagram 138, cut off from the inmt edge J4 inch as from 1 to 2 and 3 to 4. 
Place the front pattern on a piece of paper and mark around the side, shoulder and arm- 
hole as shown on this diagram ; draw a line as from 5 to G and cut out the extra piece. 

Diagram 140 represents the extra piece tiiat has been traced out and this is to be used 
for the button stand and the buttonholes are to be placed on the side of the front part. 



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DIAC.KAM 189 



DIAGRAM 140 



248 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAMS 141 & 142 

These two diagrams show h()w the same waistcoat is to be made without a seam in 
front. From J back to 2 is J/j inch and 3 back to 4 is the same; shape the front edge as 
from 2 through U down to 4 and square down fnnii 1 by the waisthne ; cut out a small 
lish fr(.im the lower pocket as shown. This will allow the line from i to be squared down 
by the waist, after which mark your breast pocket and i)rticeed as follows : split the front 
part as from A to B, B to C and C to D. 

(Diagratid 142.) Keep the two parts of the forejiart close at C; overlap at D until tlie 
front edge can be made into a straight line ; add a seam as at A-B as shown on this dia- 
gram and finish. Nothing is tt; be added on to the jiocket. When these parts, A and B are 
sewn together, also the lower fish is sewn, the frcjnt will ha\ e the pro[)er amount o'' round- 
ness and can be made up on the fold without a seam in front- 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 249 




DIAGRAM 141 



DIAGRAM 142 



250 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 143 
SINGLE-BREASTED WAISTCOAT FOR A HUNCH-BACK 

The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth 8 inches Breast 38 inches 

Waist length my^ inches Waist 36 inches 



Strap 11 inches Opening 13 inche 

Overshoulder 16^4 inches Full length 25 inches 

Blade 13 inches 

Square down and out from A. 

F'rom A to B is tlic scye depth plus >4 inch; C is waist length; C to D is 2-)4 inches; 
E is halfway between A and B; F is halfway between A and E; square out from F, B, C anil 
D. 

F>om C to 2 is ^4 inch; draw a line from E to 2; from 1 to G is 3^ breast; G to H is 
\% inches; H to I is f^ inch; J is halfway between I and G ; J to K is 3 inches; square down 
from K to locate L; apply the blade measure minus ', _. inch from 1 to K which is 12i^ inches 
and square up; X is halfway between 1 and K; X to 3 is j/i inch; square up from 3 to locate 
20; from 20 to W is 1 inch; A to S is 6^ inches; S to T is iyi inches; draw a line from 
A toT. 

From A to U is ^ breast ; square up fmrn U to locate V ; draw a line from V to W ; add 
on ^ inch to the shoulder as at 5-4, also add % ''i^l^ to the tup of back; from L to M is >< 
waist; N is halfway between L and M ; O is halfway between K and H ; draw a line from N 
through O up; from A to 5 and K to P is the strap measure plus ^ inch; draw a line from P 
to W; from P to R is ^s in^'li 'ess than 4 to 5; go forwards ^ inch from K and shape the 
shoulder and armscye. 

Now apply the overshoulder measure plus 1 inch from 1 to 4 and from K up; the over- 
shoulder measure reaches up to 10, in this case the distance between 13 and 10 is 1^4 inches, 
the overshoulder therefore is 1^ inches short. Proceed as follows: add from 4 to ft, Ij^ 
inches; from 5 to 11 the same; go in from 1 to 14, 1% inches; draw a line from 14 to E; 
point 15 begins at line A-T ; now shape the backpart from 15 to 1 and from 15' to 11, 11 
to 9 and from 9 into the armscye. Measure the distance from 1 I to 9 and make the distance 
from P to R, ^ inch less; from L to 6 is 1 inch ; point 7 is halfway between 2 and 6 ; 7 to 8 
is ^^ waist; 7 to 2 is J4 waist plus }i inch ; J to 12 is 1% inches; shape the sideseams of the 
backpart and forepart. ?, 

Now apply the opening measure plus % inch from 15 to 11 and P to I and the full 
length plus 1 inch from 15 to 11 and P to Z ; shape the front edge and finish. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



Sol 




DIAGRAM 143 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAMS 144 & 145 

TROUSERS 

Measurements fcir tntusers shnulcl lie taken in the following manner: the outside 
length should be taken from the hip bone down to the top of heel, minus -j^ inch for regu- 
lar trousers. If the trousers are to be very narrow, the measurements may be made minus 
1 inch. Loose leg tr(,nisers luay always be made slightly Imiger than tight leg trousers; 
the inseam should Ije taken from the crotch down to the top of the heel minus the same a- 
niount as has been reduced on the nutside seam. 'J"he waist measure should he taken J/S 
inch closer than the natural measure because the measurements are taken o\er the tnaisers 
and the trousers will be worn ox'er the underwear. The seat measure should be taken natu- 
ral, neither too loose nor too tight and knee and bottom should be taken according to style. 

The measurements for diagram 144 are as follows: 

(Outside length 4"^ inches Seat ■ 38 inches 

Inseam •i'.ii j inclies Knee It) inches 

Waist :>".! inches liottom KJ^j inches 

Square down and out from .\. 

From A to B is the outside length: from B to C is the inseam plus '^ inch: B to E is 
1-2 inseam plus 5 inches: C to D is '.. seat: square out from D, C, b'. and B : from C to 
F is '2 seat: from F to 1 is .j/l(i inch and 1' to ■'. is the same, or make the distance from 
] to 2, ^^ incli : from 1 to {', is J .s seat; <i back to 11 is ■'^4 inch; K is halfwav between C and 
H. 

b'roiu B to L is the same distance as from C to K ; draw a line from L through K up; 
from L to T is y^ inch less than % bottom; L to .S is the same; M to K is % knee; M 
to Q is the same; draw a line from T through (J up: this locates j ; sweep from I to (1 
pivoting at O; from N to () is '4 waist: N to V is the same: draw a line from S to R and 
from R to C; sha|)e the front part as shown. 

THE BACKPART 

Diagram 145. I'.xtcnd lines S-T-R-Q ; fr(Tni S to \\" is ]2 inch; T to \' is 1 ' !> inches; 
O to U is 1 inch; sweep from G to ~ pivoting at Q; from (] to 7 is 1^ inches; from R 
back to H is 1 incli ; R to '[■> is the same; sweep from C backwards pivoting at H ; sweep 
from D to ]0 pivoting at 14; sweeji from P to :1 pivoting at 19; 4 to 5 is 1 inch; square 
up from .■) ; place the square to points F-('i until the right angle lays on 3 and square both 
ways; this locates point S. 

From S to 9 is lA seat; to K) is 1'j inches; draw a line from R through 40 up; hrillow 
the side seam of the backpart slightly lietween 10 and 12; from to X is '4 -waist; X to Y 
is lyi inches for six seams, including the \" ; whatever is left between Y and 3 is to be 
cut out as a \' at X and Z ; sweep from X to Z pivoting at 1 : shape the backpart as shown 
and finish- 



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'>:.:! 




DIACtRAM 144 



DIAGRAM 1.1 .• 



^51 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAMS 146 & 147 
STOUT MANS TROUSERS 

The measiireiiieiits are as follows: 

Outside length 42}4 inches Seat 44 inches 

Inseam 32 inches Knee 21 inches 

Waist 42 inches Bottom 16J/$ inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to R is the outside length; B to C is the inseam plus 34 iuch ; B to E is ^ 
iiT^eam plus '■! inches; from C to D is 'n seat; square out from D, C, E and B. 

From C to F is }! seat ; F to 1 is 5/1 fi inch and ] to 2 is ^ inch ; from 1 to G is y^ seat ; 
( i back to H is 3/4 inch ; point K is halfway between C and H ; B to L is the same dis- 
tance as from C to K ; draw a line from L through K up; from L to T is J4 inch less than 14 
bottom: L to S is the same; M to Q is J4 knee; M to R is the same; draw lines from T 
through Q up; this locates J; sweep from J to G pivoting at Q, also draw a line from S 
ic. R and R to C. 

From N to O is y^ waist; N to P is the same; draw lines frfim O to 1 and from O to 
'i; place the square to points C-1 witii the riglit angle touching at 13 ; whatever the distance 
is from 13 to O, g(i up the same distance from 13 to 14; now draw a line from P through 
M and shape the forepart as shown. 

THE BACKPART 

Diagram 147. Extend lines S-T and Q-R ; from S to \V is }i inch ; T to V is l^i inches ; 
Q to U is 1 inch; sweep from G to 7 pivoting at Q; from G to 7 is 1^ inches; from R to H 
is 1 inch ; R to 13 is the same ; sweep from C backwards pivoting at H ; sweep from D to 
10 ]Mvoting at H; sweep from P to 3 pivoting at 12; from 4 to 5 is 1 inch; square up 
from 5; place the square to points F-6 until the right angle touches the sweep as at .'! 
and mark both ways; this locates 8. 

From S to 9 is JX seat ; to 10 is 1 '/j inches ; draw a line from R through 10 up to 3 ; 
from 6 to X is }/, waist; X to Y is IJ^j inches for seams; v^'hatever is left between Y and 
3 cut out as a V at Z ; shape the hackpart and finish. 



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I)IA(iKAM l-tB 



DlAGRAAl J47 



>.oG AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 148 

PEG-TOP TROUSERS 

Tlie measurements are as follows: 

Outside length 41 inches Seat 3S inches 

Inseani -i- inches Knee ';! 1 ' j inches 

Waist -j" inches Bottom Ui inches 

S(|uare ilovvn and out from A. 

From A to P. is the outside length; B to C is the inseam plus l'^ inch: H to E is y^ 
inseam iilu> 'i inches: C to D is li seat; square out from D. C. K and B. 

From C to V is 'j seat; F to 1 is ."J, Hi inch; 1 to 2 is -Vs inch; 1 to Ci is Ys seat; G 
hack to H is '4 inch; K is halfway between C and 11 ; from B to L is the same distance as 
from C to K; draw a line from L through K up: 1. to T is '4 i"'""li less than I4 bottom; 
L to S is the same; draw a line from '!" to H; this locates O; sweep from 11 to (i pivoting 
at O; from 'Q to K is ,'4 knee; draw a line from S through E up. 

F"rom N to () is ^ waist; N to 1' is the same; draw lines from O to 1 and O to v' ; 
add from C to !) as much as desired and shape the sideseam from 1' through il to E. 

THE BACKPART 

Ivxtend lines T-S, g-I-:, H-C, 4-D and U-l": from I to :> is Pj inches; square up from o ; 
this locates ]; from J to :? is ' S seat plus ^.'2 inch; place the square to points F-(i untd 
the right angle touches at ;5 ; this locate's 8; from S to U) is K' seat plus 1 ' _, mches ; draw 
a straight line from S through KJ up; S to W is yi inch; T to \' is 1', inches; O to L' is 1 
inch; sweep from (i to 7 pivoting at Q ; G to T is 1^ inches; apirly the waist measure plus 
i;,!, inches for seams and 1 inch for a \' and shape the backpart as shown, adding about M 
inch rounding at 12. 



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DIAGRAM 148 



2-^8 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 149 

This diagram slunvs a ]iair of trousers with large legs, witiiout heing iJCg-tnp. 

'ihe measurements are as follows. 

Outside length \'i inclies Seat -10 inches 

Inseam .'!'2'S inches Knee yti inches 

Waist ;!4 inches liottom Hi' !> inches 

Square down and out from A. 

I'Voni A to I^) is the outside length; B to C is the inseam pins ',4 inch: 1' to !•". is y, 
inseam plus 2 inches; C to I) is 'n seat; square out from 1), C, ]•". and R. 

From C to F is ]/> seat; 1' to 1 is ."i/Ki inch; 1 to 2 is -y'n inch; from 1 to G is 's seat; 
G hack to 11 is V^ inch; K is halfway between C and H; B to L is the same distance as 
from L" to K; flraw a line from L through K up; from L to T is '4 inch less than 34 
bottom; L to S is the same; draw a line from T to H; this locates Q; sweep from 11 to 
(i i)i\oting at O, also draw a straight line frcim S to C; this locates R- From N to <> is 34 
waist; N to P is the same; draw lines from C) to 1 and () to 2 and shape the forepart. 

THE BACKPART 

Extend lines S-T and Q-R; from R to 11 is 1 inch; R to E is the same; from S to \^ 
is jA inch; T to V is 1 J4 inches; from U to U is 1 inch; swee;) from G to 7 pivoting at 
Q; from (1 to 7 is 1^ inches; sweep from C backwards pivoting at H; swee]) from D to 10 
])ivoting at H; sweep from P to 3 pivoting at F, ; apj>ly the knee measure iilus 1 inch from 
y to R and U to 13. 

Divide the distance between \'i and R in half; this locates E; from U to 1.'! is the 
same distance as from 15 to ]l ; shape the inseam from 7 through i:i to \' ; from 4 to H is 
1 inch; square uj) from 5; place the scjuare to ])oints F-li until the right angle touches the 
sweep at :i ; this locates 8. 

From 8 to 10 is yi seat ])lus IK inches; draw a line from R through 10 up; shajie the 
outside seam from 1<) through \l to W and finish the backpart the same as shown on the pre- 
\ious diagram. 



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UIACJRAM H9 



260 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAMS 150 & 151 

This diagram shows how to make Spring Bottom Trousers. In these trousers the knee 
measure is shown to be 18 inches and the bottom 19^ inches; make the front part from 
T to S about 2 inches smaller in size than the knee measure, /'. e.. the knee, measure is 
18 inches, therefore make the distance from S to T, 8 inches, which is J^ of 16. 

THE BACKPART 

From Q to U is 1 inch ; T to V is lyi inches; S to W is J/i inch ; measure the bottom, 
plus 1 inch for seams from T to S and V to 3 ; point 4 is halfway between 3 and W ; V to 5 
is the same distance as 3 to 1 ; \' to 1 is 5 inches; W to 2 is the same; shape the backpart 
as shown. 

Diagram 151 — This diagram shows how to manipulate the backpart of a pair of trousers 
for a back bow. After the forepart and backpart have been cut out, proceed as follows: split 
the backpart as from 1 to 2 ; overlap th ebackpart as from 2 to 3, y'z or jj^ inch ; now make the 
distance from the inseam notch up to 5 the same distance as it was before being split and re- 
shape the backpart as shown Iiy the broken line. There are quite a number of cutters who 
claim that in a back bow the forepart should be made longer and the backpart shorter, 
but as a matter of fact, the forepart is made longer because as the backpart becomes shorter 
the front part is in itself comparatively longer. 



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DIAGRAM i:.(i 



DIAGRAM 151 



262 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAMS 152 & 153 

BROAD FALLS 

The facing lur hmad falls is cut as folldws: After the side pockets are marker! and 
niitciied on the fcireitart, mark C to D, 1 inch; I" to II is 2Jj inches; 11 to J is v^J inch; F 
to G is the same ; shape the facing as indicated. 

NARROW FALLS 

The narrow falls are cut as follows: Line D-I" is the center of fore|iart ; from T) to !■' 
is the same as A to C; square back from F; from 1*" to K is "^ inches; draw a line from D 
to E ; D to G is 2}/, inches; H to K is the same; draw a line from (i through K; from K to 
L IS ■):) incii ; H to J is the same; draw a line from j to L; cut in the forepart from D to F 
and iinish as rejiresented. 



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DIAGRAM 152 



DIAGRAM 153 



2G4 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAMS 154 & 155 



Trousers for bow-legged men are cut as follows: 

Ascertain the amount the legs are bowed by ha\ing ynur cust(.>mer stand with his heels 
cl(.)se together; find as nearly as you can theamount of space there is between the knees. 
Let us say the space is three inches, which means that each leg is bowed 1 ', j inches. Now, 
having cut the forepart in the regular way, pr(.)ceed as follows: (diagram 154). 

Line A-C is the knee line ; cut the forepart open as from A to C; lengthen the outside 
seam by opening the pattern .'4 inch, which is one-half the anmunt of the l)ow. Reshape 
the outside and inseam by filling in slightly at C and reducing the same amount at A-B. 

After the forepart is linished as explained, cut the backpart according to the forepart 
(see diagram loo). 



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DIACKA.M l.jl 



DIAGRAM 155 



2(i(i AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 156 
RIDING BREECHES 

Riding lirccclifs arc In lie nicasuri'il in tlic follnwiny manner: I'lrsl lake llie outside seam length, 
from the hip bone down to the top of the lieel in tiie regular way, then the inseam in the regular 
way, next take the waist and seat measures in the usual way for trousers. 

After the measurements are taken in this manner, proceed as follows: (see sketch) — 
Tlie measurements should be taken over the drawers, but if so desired, the trousers may be pinned 
up close to the leg so as to get the complete outline of the leg: now make a mark as shown on the 
sketch at 1, wliich is the regular knee; 2 is the small of the knee; 3 is the largest part of the calf; 
if an e.xtensicin is desired, make a mark also at 4. 

Now let us suppose that the measurements are as follows. 

Outside length 42 indies 

Inseam ■'•'■i'A inches 

(This leaves a rise of 'J'/j inches.) 

Waist '■•'■'> inches 

Seat '■>'■> inches 

Length from the crotch to knee 1^ inches 

To the small of the knee 10 inches 

To the largest part of calf ly,"-^ inches 

The distance from :i to 4 is the e-\teiision and may be made according to your own judgment. 

Around the knee at 1 1 J inches 

Around the small of knee as at 2 i:j^ inches 

Around the largest part of calf as at :! 14, '4 inches 

Around as at 4 11 inches 

Now proceed witli diagram. 

Scjuare down and out from .V. 

Im-oiu .\ to C is tlic rise, in this case 'J'A inches; C to D is 2 inches always: this is to give enough 
length over the knee while sitting: from D to E is 13 inches; to F is 10 inches: to B is \'J'A inches; 
to (i let us say 24 inches: square out from C. E. F, B and (j. 

I'rom C to H is M seat: 11 to Ml is ' ,, seat; point K is halfway l)etween C and Ul; si|uare up from 
H: thi^ locates W; go down fnnii W to X, J/i i"ch and draw a line from X to Y; from X to Y is '/j 
waist; from H to I is 1/2 inch; 10 to J is the same; from B to L is '4 seat; draw a line from L through 
K up; this locates points O and M; from M to N is '4 knee: O to P is '4 small of knee: from L to Q 
is ;4 calf. If the extension is desired, extend that line down and make tlie distance fr(uii i; to U, % 
ankle. 

l-rom L to T is 1 inch; M Id R is 1' j iiulies; draw a line from K tlirough T dov\'n: draw a slraiglit 
line from J through N and shaiie the ciiiUli and inseam; from Y to Z is the waist liand: from C to 1 is 
i;4 inches; draw a line from 1 to R: shape the outside scam as shown. 

THE BACKPART 

Extend all llie lines as shown ami proceed as follows; from s to 1) is % scat; draw a line from 
HI through 1) up; from '.i to 11 is }-8 seat; from 11 to 12 is A waist plus I'/j inches; from 1 to 5 is 
l-}4 inches: from 12 to i:i is y'2 inch; draw a line from i:; |o it; from i:j to 10 is yi waist plus 2 inches; 
1:1 lo 1,") is the same width as Y to Z: sweep from 10 to 7 pivoting at N. 

h'rom J to T is 1-J4 inches: draw a line from T to N and from N down througli 1' and Q to U; 
from U to V and U to 22 is the ankle measure plus 1 inch. If the measurements are taken over 

the trousers they are to lie cut without any addition, but if taken over the drawers, there is to be 1 
inch additicni. This includes all tlie measurements, i. e.. the calf, the small of the knee and the knee 
nieasiireincnts, 

briuii Q to T and Q to 2 is the calf measure; from P to S and P to :i is the small of knee measure; 
from N to R and N to 4 is the knee measure; shape the side seam of the liackparl from 12 through 
,"). 4. 3 and 2, extending the line from 2 to 23 so as to give it a regular run. Suppress tlie distance 
between 22 and 23 by cuttin.g out a V as between 20 and 21. including two scams for making up 
same: add from 4 to 24. 1 '.i inches: 2:; to 2.") is the same: this is to lie u^ed for a butlou stand. 

If the clolli is soft and can easily be shaped with the iron, the baekpart is to be stretched between 
N and Q, also between 4 and 2, and the front part is to be fulled in above the knee. Usually tlie 
kind of material riding breeches is made of is hard to press, in wdiich case split the baekpart between 
3 and 4 and N and P; take out IJ^ inch lisli under the knee. These two pieces are to be sewn together 
and tliis helps to form the baekpart of the trousers. The V which is taken out between 20 and 21 is to 
give the proper round over the calf. 

From IS to 20 and from V to 21 is the same distance as has been taken (.nit between l!i and V and 
11) and 18. When this V is sewn up. it will rcquirethis much more length in order to gi\e the bottom 
of the breeches a straight run. 

Cut out a ;/. inch V at the lop of the waistljand and finish. 



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20 81 

DIACRAM JJG 



.'08 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 157 

Riding l^recches witlmut exteiisioiis. These lirecclies are made the same as shown uii 
diagram 151!, except that they are made withe mt the extcnsiims, and the material is such as 
can be shaped with the inm. therefore, there is no tish cut out under the knee and the 
backpart is cut one-halt" incli shorter than the forepart so as to allow for the stretching un- 
der the knee. 



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DIAGRAM 157 



■270 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 158 

COACHMAN'S BREECHES 

Tlic nieaMiremcnts ;ire as fullnws: 

( )iitside length i:! inches Knee l.'i inches 

1 nseam ;i;j inches Small of knee 1 :! inches 

Waist ;!;i inches Calf 11 inches 

Seat ;i'.i inches 

Draw line A-T! and square out to P. 

I'^rom A t(i C is the diliference between the outside and inside >cani^, 1(1 inches; from 
C to K is 1 inch less than ]/> of the inseam, \'i' j inches; !•; tu I i> :'< inches; from I to B 
is 1 inches; C to D is % seat; square out frdui C, D, E, I and B. 

From C to H is '/j seat; from 11 to j is ''4 inch; square u\> imm \ In get P; tlraw a 
line from II to P to get 2'i; from j t(j L is 's seat; L hack tn K is s.s inch ; pnint T? is half- 
way between C and K ; from B to 1 1 is the same distance as C to 1"*; draw a line from 11 
through 12 to locate imints 2(1, 25 and ( ). 

Frnm 11 to T is J/| nf the calf; from 2(1 toS is ',4 of the --mall of knee; 25 to R is y^ of 
the knee measure; from 11 to 1:1 is 1 inch L'>s than II to T; from 2(1 to 21 is 1 inch less 
than 2(i to S; from 2.) to 2t is I inch less than 25 t(j R. 

From U to P is 34 waist; () to M is the s.irc.e; shape the forepart as indicated. 

THE BACKPART 

Extend lines 12-0, P-M, 2:VD, C-E, R-21, S-21 and T-i;3. 

From T to l:i and 'P to 1(1 is the calf mc;iMirc plus 1 inch for seams; from S to 21 and 
S In (; is the small of knee measure ])lus 1 inch ; fr(]m R to 24 and R to \' is the knee meas- 
ure plus 1 inch; from D to 22 is 2 inches; () to 2 is 'j waist; O to f is '«. seat; draw a line 
from 2 through 4 ; 2 to 5 is 3/2 waist plus 1 inch ; draw a line from 5 to 23 ; L to (I is i"! seat ; 
(! to 7 is i^ inch; sh.ape the liackpart and finish :is indicated. 



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DIAGRAM 158 



.373 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 159 
KNICKERBOCKERS 

I'Ik- nu-asurcmeiits are as follows: 

Outside seam 42 inches Seat 1" inches 

Tnseam '-^2 inches Small of knee Ki inches 

Waist :>4 inches Calf It inches 

Draw line A-C and square out to S. 

iM-oni A to D is the difference between the inside seam and the outside seam, which is 
ID inches: from D to 13 is 1 inch less than 'j of the inseam. which is 1,") inches; from 13 to P> 
is 21/2 inches, and from B to C is 4 inches : from D to l-: is \ seat; square out from F., D, 
13, B and C. 

From D to G is 'j seat: (i to II is .\, inch; s(|uarc u]! from II to get point S; draw a 
line from G to S to get point :! ; J is halfway between (i and II; J to K is '/« seat; K 
to L is ij inch; M is halfway between D and K; from (' to N is the same distance as from 
D to M ; from 11 to U is % of the small of knee; 11 to 13 is the same; from N to 7 is 14 
of the calf; N to is the same; from I) to 14 is 1 inch; 13 to 12 is the same; draw a line from 
12 to 14; D to Z is I'ci inches; from R to S is I/4 waist; R to T is the same; shape the fore- 
part as indicated. 

THE BACKPART 

Extend lines A-S, Z-L, X-U and 14-7 ; from 7 to 8 is y, inch ; U to W is the .same ; from 
T, to X is T!! seat; X to Y is ^i inch; from Z to 15 is 1 J-^ inches; from R to 16 is y, waist: 
R to .5 is %. seat; from 1.') to 1 i> the same length as Z to T ; draw a line from U! through ."^i ; 
from 1 to C, is 'j waist plus 1 inch; draw a line from (i to 3. 

Api)ly the small of knee measure plus 1 inch for seams from 12 to U and W to \', 
which is 11 inches; apply the calf measure plus 1 inch for seams from 7 to 14 and from S to 
10 which is IT) inches; shape the backpart as indicated. 



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DIAGRAM 159 



2^4 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 160 

GOLFING BREECHES 

The measurements are as follows : 

Outside length to knee 23^ inches Seat 40 inches 

Full length 42 inches Knee 22 inches 

Inseam 32 inches Small of the knee 13 inches 

Waist 34 inches 

Draw line A-C and square out to S. 

From A to D is the difiference between the outside and inside lengths which is 10 
inches; to B is the knee length, 23i< inches; from B to C is (i inches; D to E is % seat; 
square out from E, D, B and C. 

From D to G is yi seat; G to H is .)4 inch; square up from II to get S; draw a line 
from G to S to get 3; point J is halfway between C, and II; from J to K is y» seat; K 
to L is JX inch; point M is halfway between D and K; from G to N is the same distance as 
D to M ; draw a line from N through M ; this hicates Q-R ; from N to O is J4 inch; from N 
to P is the same; cut out a Y between 1' and ( » reaching up to Q; from P to 7 is J4 of the 
small of knee plus % inch ; O to 9 is the same ; from Q to V is j4 knee ; Q to U is the same ; 
from R to S is ^ waist; R to T is the same; from D to Z is 1^ inches; shape the forepart 
as indicated- 

THE BACKPART 

Extend lines S-T. 3-E. L-Z, U-V and 7-9. Fniui R to 4 is jA waist; R to 5 is H seat; 
draw a line from 4 through 5; 4 to fi is yi waist plus 1 inch; draw a line from to ;i ; from :: 
to F and 3 to 2 is the seat measure plus ?>j4 inches; from L to X is A seat; X to Y is y^ 
inch ; U to W is ^4 inch ; \' to B is the same ; 7 to 8 is y^ inch ; 9 to 10 is the same ; take out 
a Y from the back the same as between P and O on the forepart ; shape the backpart as indi- 
cated and finisji. 

The cufif on the bottom is to be aliout 3 inches wide. 



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DIAGRAM 160 



270 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 

DIAGRAM 161 

STRAIGHT-FRONT SACK FOR A BOY 6 YEARS OF AGE 

The Proportion Table comes as near the actual breast and waist sizes for children as it 
does for grown people, but in cutting children's clothing it is always advisable to cut same 
two sizes larger, as it is not good judgment to have children's clothing fit as closely as 
men's garments. This coat, therefore, is increased two sizes. 

The measurements for this coat are as follows: 

Breast : 26 inches 

Waist 25 inches 

Seat 28>^ inches 

Waist length 12?^ inches 

Sleeve (taken from the center of the back to the elbow and the full length to the 

wrist 21^ inches 

Around wrist 9^ inches (see proportion table for boys and youths.) 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is J4 breast; C is waist length; C to D is 5 inches; E is full length; F is 
halfway between A and B ; G is halfway between A and F; square out from G, B, C, D 
and E. 

From C to 2 is ><^ inch ; E to 22 is J4 inch ; shape the center of back from F to 2 and 
down to 22; from 1 to H is >^ breast; H to I is 1^ inches; I to J is ^ inch; from 1 to L 
is % breast on square division plus J4 inch ; square up and down from L ; this locates Q ; 
M is halfway between 1 and L ; M to N is 1 inch ; square up from N to locate O. 

From A to 8 is 6^ inches; 8 to 9 is lyi inches; draw a line from A to 9 ; A to 10 is % 
breast; this may be made Ye breast plus % inch if so desired; square up from 10 to locate 
11; draw a line from 11 to O; N back to 4 is ^4 inch; from 22 to 7 is the same distance as 
from 1 to N ; draw a line from 7 to 4; N to P is A breast ; shape the back. 

From Q to S is ^ waist; point T is halfway between Q and S; point U is halfway 
between L and I ; draw a line from T through U up ; from A to 1] and L to V is 16 breast 
plus }i inch ; draw a line from V to O ; from V to Z is >4 inch less than 11 to O ; shape the 
shoulder and armscye as shown. 

Square forwards from V by line T-U ; frotn V to W is % breast plus % inch ; draw a 
rounding line from W to J ; J to 12 is 1 inch; S to 13 is the same; shape the front edge 
through 12 and 13 down ; from S back to 14 is the same distance as from J to H ; from 6 to 
15 is the same distance as from 13 to 14 ; from 19 to 3 and 15 to 20 is the seat measure ; shape 
the side seam. From 5 to 21 is the same distance as from 5 to 7 ; from 16 to 17 is J^ breast ; 
shape the front edge, bottom of forepart and finish. 

THE COLLAR 

From V to 23 is % inch ; draw a line for the lapel break through 23 ; from 23 to 24 is }^ 
inch more than A to 11 on the backpart ; 24 to 25 is yi inch; 25 to 26 is 3/[ inch; shape the 
collar as shown and finish. 



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12^^ 




DIAGRAM 161 



278 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 162 

DOUBLE-BREASTED SACK FOR A BOY. ] 2 YEARS (Increased 2 sizes) 

The measurements are as follows: 

Breast SOJ^ inches Coat length Ziyi inches 

Waist 28 inches Sleeve length 27 inches 

Hip 32J/ inches Wrist 11 inches 

Waist length 145^ inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is 34 breast; C is waist length; C to D is 5 inches; A to E is full length; 
F is halfway between A and B ; G is halfway between A and F; square out from G, B, 
C, D and E. 

From C to 2 is i/^ inch; E to 22 is ^^ the distance of C to 2 ; draw a line from F to 2 
and down ; from 1 to H is i^ breast ; H to I is 1^ inches ; I to J is ■)4 inch ; from 1 to L is V^i 
breast (on square division) plus J^ inch; square up and down from L; M is halfway 
between 1 and L; M to N is 1 inch; square up from N ; from N to P is A breast; N back to 
4 is J4 inch ; from 22 to 7 is the same distance as from 1 to 4 ; draw a line from 4 to T ; 
from A to 8 is 6}i inches; 8 to 9 is lyi inches; draw a line from A to 9. 

From A to 10 is % breast; square up from 10 to locate 11; draw a line frrim 1 1 to O 
and shape the back; from Q to S is 3% waist; point T is halfway between Q and S; point 
U is halfway between L and I ; draw a line from T through U up ; from A to 11 and L to \' 
is Vi breast plus ^ inch; draw a line from V to O ; from V to Z is ^ inch less than 11 to 
O ; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forwards from V by line T-U ; from V to W is % breast plus yi inch; draw 
a rounding line from W to J ; from W to X is ! 6 breast; V to Y is %■ breast; draw a line 
from Y to X and shape the gorge; from J to 12 is 2J-< inches; S to 13 is the same; from Q 
to R is 3^4 inch; square down from 13 by line R-13; this locates points 6 and 16; from 
16 to 17 is % breast ; from 6 back to 15 is the same distance as from H to 12 ; from 23 to 
3 and 15 to 20 is the seat measure; 20 back to 19 is 2 inches; square up from 19 to locate 
18; draw a line from 18 through 20 down and shape the side of forepart; from 18 to 21 is 
the same distance as from 5 to 7 ; shape the bottom of forepart and finish. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



r,"-) 




DIAGRAM ir,2 



380 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 163 
SINGLE-BREASTED OVERCOAT FOR A BOY. 10 YEARS 

For further measurements see Proportion Table : (increase these overcoats 2 sizes the 
same as for other coats.) 

Breast 29 inches 

Waist 27 inches 

Seat 31 inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is J4 breast ; B to 1 is ^ inch ; A to C is waist length plus ^^ inch ; C to D 
is 5 inches; E is full length; F is halfway between A and 1 ; G is halfway between A and 
F; square out from G, B, 1, C. D and E. 

From C to 2 is 3/2 inch ; E to 22 is the same ; draw a line from F to 2 and 2 to 22 ; 
B to 24 is Ij^ inches; 24 to H is J4 breast; H to I is l}i inches; I to J is ^ inch; 
from 24 to L is /^ (on square division) breast plus ^-^ inch ; square up and down from L ; L 
back to K is ^ inch ; square up from K; M is halfway between B and K; M to N is 1 inch ; 
square up from N ; from N to P is 1 inch ; N back to 4 is ^ inch ; 22 to 7 is the same distance 
as from B to N ; draw a line from 4 to 7. 

- From A to 8 is 6J^ inches; 8 to 9 is 1>4 inches; draw a line from A to 9 ; A to 10 
is Vb breast; square up from 10 to locate 11; draw a line from 11 to O and shape the 
back; Q to S is JX waist; point T is halfway between Q and S ; point U is halfway be- 
tween L and I; draw a line from T through U up; from A to 11 and L to V is Vs breast 
]ilus }i inch. 

Draw a line from \' to O; from V to Z is 14 in^h less than 11 to O ; shape the shoulder 
and armscye; square forwards from V by lineT-U; from V to W is % breast plus J4 inch ; 
draw a rounding line from W to J ; V to Y is ^ breast ; square forwards from Y and shape the 
gorge. 

From J to 12 is lyi inches; S to 13 is the same; Q to R is ^ inch; square down from 
13 by line R-S ; this locates points 6 and 16; 16 to 17 is >^ breast; 6 back to 15 is the 
same distance as from H to 12 ; from 23 to X and 15 to 20 is the seat measure; 20 back to 
19 is 2 inches; square up from 19 to locate 18; draw a line from 18 through 20 down and 
shape the side of forepart; from 18 to 21 is the same distance as from 18 to 7; shape the 
bottom of forepart and finish. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



28.1 




DIAGRAM 163 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 164 
DOUBLE-BREASTED BOX OVERCOAT FOR A BOY. 16 YEARS 

Vor further ineasurcnients see Proportion Table. 

Breast 32 inches 

Waist 2d inches 

Seat 33-y4 inches 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is J4 breast ; B to 1 is 1 incli ; A to C is waist length plus Yz inch ; D is 
full length ; F is halfway between A and J ; G is halfway between A and F ; square out 
from G, B, 1, C and D. 

From C to 2 is y'^ inch; draw a line from F through 2 down; this locates 22; square 
forwards from 22; from B to 21 is IJ/^ inches; 21 to H is yi breast; H to I is l^/z inches; 
I to J is ^4 inch ; from, 21 to L is ?^ breast (on square division) plus y'z inch ; square up and 
down from L ; L back to 18 is 3^2 inch ; square up and down from 18 ; M is halfway between B 
and 18; M to N is 1 inch: scjuare u].) from N to locate O. 

h'rom A to 8 is Gyg inches; 8 to !• is ! J/j inches; draw a line from A tu !• ; A to 10 is 'f. 
breast ; square up from 10 to locate 11 ; draw a line from 1 1 to (J and shape the back; point 3 
is where the armhole crosses the breast line ; square down from 3 to locate 4 ; 4 to 5 is lyi 
inches; 5 ti) ti is 3Vj inches; draw lines fmni ;i thmugh 5 to 7 and from 3 through G to 15. 

From Q to S is Yz waist; point T is halfway between P and S; point U is halfway be- 
tween L and I ; draw a line from T through U up; A to 11 and L to V is Vs breast plus ^ 
inch; draw a line from \' to U; from V to Z is -yg inch less than 11 to O; shape the shoul- 
der and armscye. 

Square forwards from V by line T-U ; \ to W is ''t breast plus yi inch; draw a 
rounding line from W to J; \V to X is Yd breast; V to Y is yi breast; draw a line from 
Y through X and shape the gorge. From J to 13 is 'S buttonstand, in this case 2J/2 inches; 
S to 13 is the same; Q to R is 1 inch; place the square to points R-13 and square down; 
this locates Ki; 1 (1 to 17 is yi breast; now add U> the backpart from 3 to K, 1 inch and 
from 7 to 11 the same; from 3 to 15 is the same distance as from K to 14; shape the bot- 
tom and linish. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



28;5 




DIAGRAM 164 



384 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 165 

BOYS' SLEEVE 

The sleeve for children's coats is made as follows: measure around the armscye closely 
and cut the slee\'e by the armscye. 

Draw line A-F and square back to L 

From A to I is ^ of the armscye ; square down from I ; from A to B is A of the arm- 
scye ; B to D is 34 of the armscye ; D to E is the same ; square out from B and D ; from D 
to C is 1 inch; from C to H is }4 of the armscye; H to J is ^ inch; draw a line from C 
to H ; point G is halfway between C and H ; draw a line from E to J. 

From A to K is ;^ of the armscye ; K to L is the same ; from D to F is the sleeve length ; 
from D to O is 1 inch; D to P is the same ; F to Q is 1 inch; F to R is the same; place 
the square at G-F and square back to N ; from F to N is the width of the sleeve desired 
plus 1 inch for seams; point T is halfway between C and F; square back from T to locate 
M ; from S to T is ^2 inch ; U to V is the same ; shape the upper and under sleeve as indicated. 

DIAGRAM 166 
BOYS' TROUSERS 

Boys' trousers are cut as follows: (for measurements see Table of Proportions for Boys 
and Youths). 

Draw line A-D and square out to I. 

From A to C is the rise; C to D is the mseam; C to 2 is !^ seat; square out from 2. 
C and D ; from C to E is J/^ seat ; E to V is J^ seat ; G is halfway between C and V ; from D 
to F is the same distance as C to G ; draw a line from F through G to get 7 ; from F to N is 
yi bottom ; F to O is the same ; square up from E to get I ; from I to K is 3/2 waist ; shape 
the forepart as indicated. 

THE BACKPART 

Extend lines G-7, 1-K, 6-2, C-V and N-O. 

From N to Q is 3/ inch ; O to R is the same; \' to U is I36 inches; U to 5 is 34 inch; 
2 to 3 is 134 inches; from 7 to X is H seat; draw a line from X to 6 ; sweep from K to Y 
pivoting at N ; X to \' is '/, waist plus 1 inch ; shape .the backpart as shown and finish. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



385 



DIAGRAM 165 




DIAGRAM 166 



286 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 167 

NORFOLK COAT 

Of course tliere is no limit to the various styles and ways of producing Norfolk Jackets, 
hut no matter what the style may be they must all be made to come up to the original pattern 
after the various plaits are inserted. The two Norfolk coats shown here are merely offered 
as suggestions on how to produce same. 

This coat is cut from the ordinary sack coat pattern. After the pattern is cut out as 
usual, proceed as follows: 

THE BACKPART 

Point F is halfwav between ]•". and ■( i ; from E to A is I3/4 inches; (i to B is the 
same; cut tiie back through as marked; now add a seam tn the lower portiiin of the back 
and add the same to the yoke. 

The forei)art is made in the same way. l'>om K t<> J is 1 inch; I is halfway between 
H and 1; from H to C is jA inch; K to D is the same; cut the pattern thmugh as from 
C to I and from I to D ; add a seam to the lower part of the front and the same to the 
yoke. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



287 




DIAGRAM J (17 



288 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM 168 

NORFOLK COAT 

After the back and forepart are cut out proceed as follows: cut ofif your yoke as marked 
on the forepart and backpart ; this may be cut according to taste. Add a seam each to 
the yoke and to the lower part ; line 1-2 on the backpart represents about the center of the 
back; split the pattern down as from 1 to 3, also through the waistline as 3-3. 

Now take a thin piece of paper, crease it o\er in either two or three plaits or as many as 
desired. Lay the piece that has been cut out off the backpart on the folded piece and cut 
it according to the original pattern. That piece when opened up should look as shown here 
1, 3, 3 and 4. 

THE FOREPART 

Split the forepart as from D to E, E to B and B to A ; now take a piece of soft paper 
and fold in plaits as explained on the backpart : then take the piece that is cut from the fore- 
part and place it on the plaited piece; cut it uut in accordance with the original piece; 
adding seams as at A-C and B-E. Now set the piece back in again as the broken line shows 
and sew the yoke on- • 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



289 




DIAGRAM 168 



sno 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



TABLE OF PROPORTIONS 

tor^horl ^Iteamire^, bif^recmh anS iMeiphl 





Breast 


32 


33 


3^ 


35 


36 


37 


38 


39 


W 


^/ 


7Z 


73 


^^ 


^5 


76 


77 


78 


Breast 


Jleight 

5-^ 


16 


//? 





16 


16 


16 


16 


16 


/6 


/6 


/6 


/6 


16 


16 


16 


76 


76 


Waiit length 


m 


S^/^ 


S'/2 


8% 


m 


m 


9 


978 


977 


9% 


97^2 


9% 


9% 


978 


70 


7078 


707^ 


Scye 


ms 


m 


//'/3 


l/'/z 


//# 


72 


12'/8 


12% 


12% 


/2% 


/3 


/J^ 


/37s 


73% 


13% 


77 


777^ 


Strap 




/5% 


/s% 


1678 


m% 


//^■"A 


77'/s 


17% 


ms 


1778 


/m 


/87z 


/87/8 


/9'/s 


19% 


/97j, 


20 


2on 


(henhouUer 




mh 


m% 


m^ 


/67^ 


/67^ 


167^f 


167^ 


167^ 


/6'Aj 


167^ 


/67^ 


/67^ 


/67¥ 


167^, 


/67-f 


/67', 


/679 


WaiithfigOi 


5-5 


m 


m 


s% 


8% 


S'7'8 


9 


9'/s 


9h 


9% 


9'/2 


9% 


9% 


9n 


70 


70f8 


m7 


/0% 


Scye 


// 


/jh 


//'/2 


m^ 


im 


/27s 


/2'/¥ 


727z 


/2% 


/2y/fi 


737s 


73% 


/37^ 


73% 


79 


77% 


77%$ 


Strap 




/s% 


/6 


/6h 


16^ 


/ms 


77'A 


/7y2 


77% 


/8 


/8% 


78-78 


79 


797, 


7972 


/m 


2978 


zo% 


OverJioulJer 




Wh 


J6h 


16^2 


mTz 


/6'/?. 


76f2 


7672 


7672 


7672 


7672 


767^ 


76'^ 


767^ 


76% 


7/712 


76'^ 


76'/2 


Wmllaifffh 


5-6 


m 


8% 


m'j 


srs 


9 


9fs 


9'^ 


9% 


9'/2 


9% 


9%^ 


9n 


70 


/Ofs 


/O0/ 


/0% 


70f2 


Scye 


im 


m'8 


ms 


tm 


U 


/27fy 


/2fH 


ms 


72^8 


73 


/37'^ 


73'/2 


/3%3 


/3?8 


777h 


/77^ 


m/k 


Strap 




/5% 


Wh 


ma 


m^ 


/7 


/7h 


/7% 


77/s 


7878 


7872 


/8%^ 


/97s 


/97s 


79^8 


20 


20%, 


207/2 


0ver.4oul(ler 




m% 


i6% 


m% 


16% 


//?■% 


76% 


76% 


76% 


76% 


76% 


76% 


76% 


Voi 


76% 


76% 


76% 


76% 


Wwstletijth 


5-7 


Sfs 


S% 


S^/s 


9 


9h 


9h 


9% 


97z 


9% 


9%^ 


9V8 


70 


7078 


797, 


70% 


m 


70% 


Scye 


/m 


ir/z 


11% 


//% 


/2f8. 


72'li 


7272 


72% 


73 


7378 


737s 


73% 


73% 


7^ 


777^ 


77% 


77% 


Strap 




/6 


/^> 


mz 


/m 


/77/s 


777^2 


77% 


78 


78'/^ 


78% 


78% 


79'/^ 


7972 


7m^ 


27)'/^ 


20% 


20% 


(hershoulder 




J7 


/7 


17 


77 


77 


77 


77 


77 


77 


77 


77 


77 


77 


77 


77 


77 


77 


yaktlcni/lh 


5-8 


S% 


^% 


9 


9 'A 


9'/7 


9% 


99z 


9% 


9% 


9?8 


70 


/0% 


707, 


70% 


70f2 


70% 


70% 


Scye 


/'/% 


//•% 


im 


/2 


727¥ 


72h 


72^/, 


72% 


/378 


737>i 


73^/2 


737^ 


73% 


7778 


0% 


77'/^ 


77% 


Strap 




16'k 


16% 


m^/'i 


77 


/7f* 


77% 


777/8 


/S'/8 


78^/8 


78%i 


7£1 


7.9% 


79% 


79% 


297^ 


207k 


20% 


QverdouiJer 




I7'k 


17% 


17'/f 


17^^f 


77'A 


777f 


777i, 


777^^ 


/77ii 


/77'¥ 


777v 


777, 


7777, 


777i 


777¥ 


777v 


777v 


yaisfUnqHi 


5-9 


m 


9 


9fs 


9^^ 


9fs 


9'/2 


9%8 


9\ 


O'^s 


70 


mA 


79% 


79% 


70f2 


70f8 


70% 


79^^ 


Scye 


JJ'/z 


//% 


J2 


/2'M 


72% 


72% 


/2% 


73 


737^ 


/3% 


73% 


7378 


77 


7r7, 


/n. 


ms 


77fs 


Strap 




J6'A 


/6!z 


m/H 


1778 


/7-fs 


77% 


78 


787'f 


78fz 


787/8 


7m 


791^ 


/^•% 


20 


20% 


207, 


207s 


OyerstiouUer 




m? 


m?. 


m2 


/77'z 


777^2 


/77^. 


77^2 


7772 


777z 


7772 


77fz 


7777 


77^2 


77'^ 


7Z/2 


77^ 


77/2. 


misllfngth 


5i0 


9 


.n 


9h 


9% 


9^2 


9% 


9% 


9% 


70 


7078 


70f^ 


70% 


70f2 


70% 


70f7^ 


79f8 


7/ 


Scye 


//% 


im 


ma 


72% 


7272 


/2% 


Y2?s 


7378 
78% 


73^:^ 


7372 


73% 


7^7 


ms 


/¥% 


77% 


77% 


7J 


Strap 




m(3 


/6% 


17 


/7'A 


1772 


/7?s 


7878 


78% 


79 


7m 


79%8 


ms 


ZO/s 


Z072 


20% 


27 


Overslioultl/r 




17% 


m^, 


17% 


17% 


77% 


77% 


77% 


/7% 


77% 


77% 


77%, 


77^f 


77% 


77% 


77% 


77%f 


77% 


Vloist Icfiglh 


5-n 


S'/s 


9h 


9'/h 


9^2 


9% 


9'/7 


9f8 


70 


70f6 


707v 


70% 


70f2 


/Ofs 


70% 


70% 


77 


77% 


Scye 


/f% 


/2 


U'A 


72% 


72% 


72% 


73 


737', 


73% 


73% 


73^8 


777s 


777^, 


7772 


77% 


777s 


7M 


Strap 




m2 


W'^ 


/77s 


17% 


17% 


78 


78'/'^ 


7S7z 


78%, 


7978 


79fs 


79% 


20 


207H 


20% 


207/S 


277s 


OversliMlJer 




/s 


/8 


IS 


78 


78 


78 


78 


78 


7S 


78 


78 


78 


78 


78 


78 


78 


78 


Wuiitlenqth 


6-0 


9'/'> 


9% 


9'/2 


9% 


9% 


9% 


70 


70fs 


70% 


70% 


70f2 


70% 


/9% 


7ors 


77 


77fs 


m 


Scye 


//f^ 


/2'/8 


/2//3 


72h 


72% 


ms 


ms 


/3% 


/3f^ 


73% 


7^/ 


7n 


TT/s 


7ns 


77^s 


75 


7S%/ 


Strap 




/6-% 


ms 


m^f 


77'/2 


77% 


787/8 


7S% 


/S%8 


/8% 


/n 


7972 


79^8 


2078 


20% 


20% 


27 


27_% 


OimliovlJer 


l5Ue 

1 


/O 


m>y 


/^i 


/0% 


// 


m 


m 


//f'/ 


/2 


m 


/2k 


/2% 


/J 


m 


m 


7J% 


/^ 


Bldfle 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



291 



TABLE OF PROPORTIONS 

FROM 

NORMALS TO STOUTS 







COAT 




VEST 


TROUSERS 


lUiEAST 


WAIST iiir 


1 CI lAT 
SLKEVE 1 LENGTHS 


VEST 
LENGTHS 


KISE 


WAIST 


SEAT 


34 
35 
3G 
ii7 
38 
39 
40 
41 
42 
43 
44 
45 
46 
47 
48 
49 
50 


30 
31 
32 

33/ 
34/ 
35M 
37 

38/ 
39/ 
40^ 
. 42 
43/ 
44/ 
45 J4 
47 
48/ 
49/ 


36 
37 
38 
39 
40 
41 
42 
43 
44 
45 
46 
47 
48 
49 
50 
51 
52 


17/ 

173/ 

18 

18/ 

18/ 

18J4 

19 

19/ 

19/ 

19/ 

19/ 

19/ 

19/ 

19/ 

19/ 

19/ 

19/ 


30 

30/ 

30/ 

30./ 

31 

31/ 

31/ 

31^ 

32 

32/ 

32/ 

32J4 

33 

33/ 

33/ 

33J4 

34 


343/ 

25/8 

25/ 

25^^ 

26/ 

26fg 

27/8 

27/ 

27/8 

28/ 

28/ 

285^ 

28^ 

28 /s 

29 

29/ 

29/ 


9/ 
9/ 

9M 
10 

10/ 
10/ 
10./ 

11 

11/ 
11/ 
11./ 

12 

12/ 

12/ 

123/ 

13 

13/ 


29 

30 

31 

32/ 

33/ 

34^ 

36 

37/ 

38/ 

39J4 
41 

42/ 
43/ 

44K 
46 

47M 
48/ 


35 
36 
37 
38 
39 
40 
41 
42 
43 
44 
45 
46 
47 
48 
49 
50 
51 



TABLE OF PROPORTIONS 

. FROM 

STOUT TO CORPULENTS 



COATS 



BREAST 



WAIST 



HIP 



TROUSERS 



WAIST 



38 
39 
4(1 
41 

r.i 

43 
44 
45 
46 
47 
48 
49 
50 
51 
52 
53 
54 



37 

38 54 

39/ 

40J4 

42 

43/ 

44/ 

45% 

47 

48/ 

49/ 

50fi 

52 

53/ 

54/ 

55-/ 

57 



41 
42 
43 
44 
45 
46 
47 
48 
49 
50 
51 



54 
55 
56 
57 



36 

37/ 

38/ 

3954 

41 

42/ 

43/ 

44./ 

46 

47/ 

48/ 

493/ 

51 

52/ 

53/ 

54M 

56 



40 

41/ 

42/ 

43% 

45 

46/ 

47/ 

48./ 

50 

51/ 

52/ 

53./ 

55 

56 

57 

58 

59 



SEAT 


UlSE 


40 


10 


41 


10/ 


42 


10/ 


43 


10./ 


44 


11 


45 


11/ 


46 


11/ 


47 


11% 


48 


12 


49 


12/ 


50 


12/ 


51 


12% 


52 


13 


53 


13/ 


54 


13/ 


55 


13V» 


56 


IZYz 



For vest lengths add / of breast and / of height. 

The short mea.--iires for the tahle of proportions for men are 
Scye depth, 'j breast plus ;iJ4 inches: Waist length, ^ of 
waist length, add 'i inches: Strap, Y^ lireast i)lus ;}.>4 inches: Blade, 
For overshoulder use Vi of breast plus G inches. « ^ .• ' 

Where changes arc made in cither the scye depth, strap or bl; 
over erect forms, the overshoulder is obtained as follows: 
For example : 

Scye <lei)th 

Strap 

Blade 



as follows: 

height; For fashionable 
;4 breast plus 3iX inches : 

iide, for cither stooping or 



9J4 inches 
12^ inches 
W/z inches 



Total 



Take one-half of the amount, which is 17i4 inches and add 34 i 
Make no extra additions, as all allowances have been made. 



.... 34J^ inches 

nch, which is 17 'X inches. 



292 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



TABLE OF PROPORTIONS 



FOR 



BOYS AND YOUTHS 



COATS 



AGE 


BREAST 


WAIST 


HII- 


WAIST 

LENGTH 


FULL 
LENGTH 


SLEEVE 


Wit I ST 


4 


23 


23 


26 


11/ 


18 


17/ 


8/ 


5 


23 M 


23/. 


265^ 


11/3 


18^ 


18/ 


m 


6 


2414 


24 


27/ 


13 


19/ 


19/ 


9 


7 


25J4 


24 M 


27% 


12/ 


19?^ 


20/ 


9/ 


8 


2fi 


25 


28/ 


12^ 


30/ 


21/ 


9/ 


9 


26J4 


25/2 


39/ 


13 


21/ 


23/ 


9J4 


10 


2714 


36 


29J4 


13/ 


21J4 


23/ 


10 


11 


2854 


26/ 


30Ji 


13/3 


233/ 


24/ 


10/ 


12 


39 


27 


31 


14 


23 


25/ 


10/ 


13 


29^ 


27/ 


315/8 


u/ 


33H 


26/ 


10^ 


14 


30/2 


28 


33/ 


14?^ 


24/ 


37 


11 


15 


■il'A 


28/ 


33 


15 


25/ 


27^ 


11/ 


16 


33 


29 


33J4 


15/ 


26 


38/ 


11/ 


17 


33 


39/ 


34/ 


15^/3 


26^ 


29/ 


■ 11J4 


18 


34 


30 


35 


16 


27/ 


30 


12 


19 


33 


31 


36 


16/ 


38/ 


31 


12/ 


30 


30 


33 


37 


16^ 


29 


32 


12/ 



TROUSERS 



AGE 


HOYS' 
VESTS 


RISE 


LENGTH 


WAIST 


SEAT 


KNEE 


4 




5/ 


5/ 


33 


35/ 


11 


5 




53/ 


6/ 


33/ 


26/ 


11/ 


6 




6 


7 


34 


27 


11/ 


7 




6/ 


7/ 


34/ 


27}i 


iiM 


8 




6/ 


83/ 


35 


28/ 


12 


9 




6M 


95^ 


35/ 


29/ 


12/ 


10 


31^ 


7 


10/ 


36 


29Va 


12/ 


11 


22/ 


7/ 


11^ 


26/ 


303/ 


12?4 


13 


23/ 


7/ 


12/ 


27 


31 


13 


13 


22 Jg 


7H 


13/ 


27/ 


315^ 


13/ 


14 


33/ 


8 


14 


28 


32/ 


13/ 


15 


335/ 


8/ 


1454 


28/ 


33 


13M 


16 


34 


8/ 


15/ 


29 


33J4 


14 


17 


24^ 


83/ 


30/ 


29/ 


34/ 


1 1/ (Botton' 


18 


24./ 


9 


31 


30 


35/ 


15 


19 


25/ 


9/ 


31/ 


31 


36 


15/ 


30 


25/ 


9/ 


32 


33 


37 


16 



The short nipaj='ires for the tahle of proportions for cliihlren's clothing are as follows: 
Scv uepth, 34 breast; strap, / breast plus -54 inch: blade, / breast plus yi inch. 
Make no extra additions, as all allowances have lieen made. 



/., ) 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 293 



A FEW REMARKS ABOUT MAKING COATS. 

The canvas and haircloth for all coats shmild be cut on the bias as shown on Diagram 
A; cut in this way, it will give freely at the gorge, shoulder and armhole. Some tailors 
consider the canvas on the bias when cut as shown on Diagram B; this is the wrong 
way, because if cut in this way it will be on the straight around the gorge, shoulder and 
armscye, and unless cut in at several places will produce a stiffness and will not give at 
the shoulder and armscye as it should. 

Sack Coats— Before sewing up the side seams it is well t<> shrink in the back from about 
four inches below the armscye to the shoulder so as to form a pocket for the blade bone, 
also put in a piece of stay linen at the back of the armscye so as to keep the blade pocket 
in place. If a close-fitting sack coat, you may stretch the backpart slightly at the waist. 
On a straight hanging sack coat or overcoat the backpart must not be stretched at the 
waist. In pressing the canvas, stretch it slightly at the gorge and shoulder, but do not 
stretch the cloth because the fulling in of the back at the shoulder seam, also the fulling 
in of the collar will give all the stretching needed. 

The Edges— Always dip the stay tape in water and press before using it. When ba.st- 
ing stay tape on the front edge, hold it short n\ er the breast and work the front edge m, 
so that the roundness of the breast is pressed into the middle of the front and the edge 
becomes straight. For a stout person, hold the stay tape short over the most prominent 
rounding, which is over the waist. In all straight front coats, such as overcoats, double- 
breasted sacks, or straight-front sacks, the front edges must be worked in until they are 

straight. 

The Sleeves — In sewing up the front seams always begin at the top, and, basting on 
the upper sleeve, keep both upper and under sleeves even for about 3 inches; from there 
down, hold the upper sleeve a little short to about 3 inches from the bottom and from 
there down, hold them even. When sewing up the back seam, begin also on top, and basting 
on the upper sleeve, keep them both even to the elbow: over the roundness of the elbow hold 
the upper sleeve easy, and from there down even. 

When basting in the sleeve, begin with the right one and placing the seam of the sleeve 
to the notch of the back hold it easy to about 1 inch beyond the shoulder seam ; from there 
on full the sleeve in until the front notch of the sleeve reaches the front notch of the armhole; 
from there hold the sleeve even until you reach the part of the armscye that is drawn 
in with the stay linen and full the undersleeve in over the back. 

The Collar— Collars are to be put in easy in the hollow of the gorge for normal or 
slim persons. A concave shoulder needs a longer collar than a normal shoulder. A 
stout person needs a shorter collar than a normal person. In cither case, don't stretch the 
collar stand. 

FROCKS 

In basting the sidebody to the front always begin and keep them even at the armscye 
and hold straight all the way down. 

THE SKIRT 

After the sideseam and fish are sewed and pressed open, baste a piece of stay tape to 
the bottom, or the waist seam of the sidebody, so as to prevent it from .stretching, after 
which baste the skirt on, beginning at the side, hold the skirt and sidebody even to the side 
seam. From there on for about 4 inches hold the skirt full, and from there on even to the front. 

In sewing the back to the sidebody, begin at the armscye and keep both back and 
sidebody even to about 4 inches from the waist; from there down full the back in about Ya 
inch ; don't stretch the sidebody until after the back is sewed on to it, and then only just 
enough to make the backseam straight ; shrink in the sidebody halfway. 



i'M 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



V 



.X 



7 




AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 295 



THE PLAITS 

The proper way to make plaits is to put a baste in y^ inch or a seam back from the 
mark stitch and press the roundness of the skirt in until the plait is straight; then press it 
open as if it were a seam. Pull the baste out and it is ready to be joined to the l>ack. 

The shoulder, collar and sleeves are the same as in tlie sack coats. 

In double-breasted frocks or dress coats a.l tlie seams are joined the same as the single- 
breasted coats, except that the rever is held slightly short over the breast and the bell 
shape skirt needs but little fulness at the waist. 

VESTS 

.\11 vests cut bv this system need no collar stand, as the stand is cut on the vest. 

The Edges— All the front edges are to be made straight with the stap tape, /. <•., they 
are to be worked m until the edge is straight and the fullness pressed into the middle of 
the front. 

The Shoulders— The shoulders ought to bj stretched slightly and the back held full 
over them. The Collar, if there be one, sh mid be held easy to about ;! inches from the 
shoulder and from there held short to about 'i inches from the front edge. 

Double-breasted vests, with or without c illar, or dress vests with low openings should 
have stay tape laid around the opening and held short so as to prevent the edge sticking 
away from the shirt front. 

Double-breasted vests and double-breasted coats must have more breast worked in them 
than single-breasted \ests or coats. 

TROUSERS 

Avoid stretching trousers, except in the backpart from the knee up and that but slight- 
ly. Any stretching on the forepart is sure to s|»iil them. Let the notches come together 
evenly ; hold the forepart easy over the knee a id tlie liackpart hold easy over the calf. 

Peg top trousers should have the roundness from over the hip pressed into the back; 
let the forepart be held easy over the backpart from the hip to the knee; waistbands 
should be held a little .short over the forepart, easy in hollow of the waist and even from 
there back; the right fly should be held easy in the hollow of the crotch. Let all the shap- 
ing be done by shrinking. Do not stretch. 



i 



296 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



INDEX 



Page 

INTRODUCTION 3 

PREFACE [[] 4 

TREFACE TO THIRD EDITION 5 

THE MEASURING OF THE HUMAN BODY 6 

HOW TO MEASURE 8 

HOW TO MEASURE, Continued 10 

HOW TO MEASURE, Continued 12 

HOW TO MEASURE, Continued 14 

HOW TO MEASURE. Continued 16 

HOW TO MEASURE, Continued 18 

HOW TO MEASURE, Continued 20 

FIRST LESSON FOR HRAFTINtJ A SACK 

COAT 33 

FIRST LESSON FOR DRAFTING A SACK 

COAT. Continued 34 

FIRST LESSON FOR DRAFTING A SACK 

COAT. Continued '.G 

HOW TO AI'I'LY THE OVKRSHOULDBR 

MEASURE 38 

HOW TO MAKE THE CHANGE FOR A 

LO« SHOl LDEK SO 

SACK COAT FOR A FKiURE WITH A 

LARGE BLADE S3 

SACK COAT FOR A FIGURE WITH A 

SMALL BLADE 34 

TO CAUSE A SMALL FOLD AT THE BACK 

OF THE ARM 36 

TO INCREASE THE WIDTH OF THE 

SHOULDER 38 

SACK COAT FOR A SWAY-BACK FIGURE 40 
TO CUT AN INCREASED SIZE COAT 

HITHOUT DISTURBING THE BALANCE 43 
FOUR-BUTTON STRAIGHT-HANGING SACK 44 

BOX SAC K COAT 46 

THREE-BUTTON STOUT MANS SACK 48 

HOW TO POCKET A FAT JIAN'S COAT 50 
THREE-BUTTON SACK COAT FOR A 

CORPULENT FIGURE 53 

DOUBLE BREASTED SACK COAT 54 

DOUBLE-BREASTED SACK COAT FOB A 

SToiT FKiCRE a« 

THREE-BUTTON SACK COAT FOR A 

HUNCIi-BACK 58 

SHAWL COLLAR TUXEDO 60 

PEAKED LAPEL TUXEDO 63 

HOW TO <iET A HIGH BACK SEAM «4 

FROCK COAT 66 

THREE-BUTTON FROCK, Continued «8 

TO PROCURE THE PROPER SEAMS ON 

A FROCK COAT ■JO 

HOH- TO CHANGE A FROCK COAT PAT- 
TERN FOR A LOW SHOULDER 73 

FIGURE WITH A FLAT BLADE AND A 

FULL CHEST 74 

FIGURE WITH A LARGE BLADE AND A 

FLAT CHEST 74 

THREE-BUTTON FROCK 76 

THREE-BUTTON SACK FOR AN ATHLETE 78 
FROCK COAT FOR A LARGE BREAST, 
SMALL WAIST AND SLIGHTLY SWAY- 
BACK 80 

FROCK COAT. Continued 83 

THREE-BUTTON FROCK FOR STOUT FIG- 

l BE 84 

THREE-BUTTON FROCK FOB A CORPU- 
LENT FKiUBE 86 



JK WITH SACK 



88 



ENGLISH AVALKING FP 
FRONT 

SINGLE-BREASTF 
FROCK 

SINGLE-BREAS- iD STRAIGHT-FRONT 

FROCK FOR A STOUT FIGURE 93 



STRAIGHT-FRONT 



90 



Page 

CLERGYMAN'S STRAIGHT-FRONT FROCK 94 

CASSOCK 9g 

CLERGYMAN'S STRAIGHT-FRONT SACK 98 

DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK lOO 

DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK FOR A 

STOUT FIGURE i(j3 

DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK FOB A CORP- 
ULENT FIGURE 104 

EVENING DRESS COAT 106 

EVENING DRESS C<(AT FOR A STOUT 

»'«<il'KE 108 

EVENING DRESS COAT WITH BEVER 

AND SKIRT STRAP IN ONE 110 

EVENING DRESS COAT. Continued 113 

SINGLE-BREASTED O^ERtOAT 114 

SINGLE-BREASTED SHAPELV OVERCOAT 116 
SINGLE-BREASTED SHAPELY OVERCOAT. 

Continued ji8 

SHAPELY OVERCOAT FOR A STOUT FIG- 
IKE 130 

DOUBLE-BREASTED OVERCOAT FOR 

STOUT FIGURE 133 

SINGLE-BREASTED L<»OSE-HANGING 

0\ ERCOAT 134 

STBAUillT-HANGING OVERCOAT FOR A 

STOUT FIGURE 136 

DOUBLE-BREASTED ULSTER 138 

SINGLE-BREASTED BOX 0\ ERCOAT 130 

BOX 0\ERCOAT FOR A STOUT FIGURE 133 
BOX OVERCOAT FOR A STOUT FIGl'BE. 

Continued 134 

DOUBLE-BREASTED OVERCOAT FOR A 

STOUT FIGURE 136 

SINGLE-BREASTED FROCK OVERCOAT.. 138 
SINGLE-BREASTIil) FROCK OVERCOAT 

FOR .V STOIT FH:UKE 140 

SINGLE-BREASTED PADDOCK OVERCO.V'f 143 

DOUBLE-BRE.VSTED I'.VLETOT 144 

DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK OVERCOAT 146 
DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK OVERCOAT 

FOR A CORPULENT FKiURE 148 

SH ELL FOR FUR CO.YT l,-,0 

THE SLEEVE ir,> 

THE SLEE\ E, Continued 154 

SLEE\ E FOR BOX OVEKCO.VT 1 i(i 

SLEEVE FOR V NARROW SHOULDER ... Ij8 

R.VtiL.V.N 0> ERCO.\T 160 

THE SPLIT SLEEVE 163 

THE WHOLE SLEEVE 163 

15AL.MAC A.%N 164 

BAL.WAC.YAN, Continued 16(i 

BAL.MAC.Y-YN, Continued 168 

B.VLMACAAN. Continued no 

BAL.MAC.YAN SLEE\ E 173 

BALMACAAN SPLIT SLEE\E 174 

SLEEVE. Continued 176 

T« O SEA.>I SPLIT SLEEVE 178 

SLEEVE, Continued 180 

IN>ERNESS 182 

SOUARE-SHOULDERED INVERNESS 184 

SHOULDER CAPE 186 

SHOULDER CAPE, Continued 188 

SPANISH CAPE 190 

.MILITARY C.YPE 193 

A HOOD 194 

NAVAL OFFICER'S BLOUSE 196 

COACH.MAN'S OR GROO.M'S FROCK UN- 

DEBCO.YT 198 

COACH.M.VN'S FROCK OVERCOAT 200 

FOOTMAN'S OR DOORMAN'S DRESS COAT 303 



Page 

FOOT.MAN'S COATEE %o* 

MESH JACKET ' goj 

CHAUFFEUR'S SACK 208 

CHAUFFEUR'S OVBRCOAT 210 

RIDING SACK ! . 212 

RIDING SACK. Continued 214 

RIDING FROCK 216 

COLLARS 218 

SINGLE-BREASTED NO-COLLAR WAIST- 
COAT 220 

SINGLE-BREASTED W.YISTCOAT WITH 

NOTCH COLL.VR 333 

WAISTCOAT FOR A FIGURE WITH A 

LARGE BL.YDE 334 

U.YISTCOAT FOR A FIGURE WITH A 

FL.AT BLADE AND FULL CHEST 234 

DOUBLE-BRE.4STED WAISTCOAT 226 

H.VISTCOAT CUT WITH SEPARATE 

REVER 228 

SINGLE-BREASTED NO-COLLAR VEST 

FOR A STOUT FIGURE 230 

SINGLE-BRE.YSTED NO-COLLAR VEST 

FOR A STOUT FIGURE. Continued 333 

SINGLE-BRE.YSTED WAISTCOAT FOR A 

CORPULENT FIGURE 234 

DOUBLE-BREASTED WAISTCOAT FOR A 

STOUT FIGURE 336 

DOUBLE-BRE.VSTED WAISTCO.VT FOR A 

STOUT FIGURE. Continued 238 

SINGLE-BREASTED DRESS WAISTCOAT. 240 
DOUBLE-BREASTED DRESS WAISTCOAT 242 

CLERtiYJIAN'S WAISTCOAT 244 

CLERGY^IAN'S W.MSTCO.VT. Continued ... '346 
CLERGYM.VN'S W.MSTCO.VT. Continued ... 348 
SINGLE-BRE.VSTED W.VISTCOAT FOR A 

HUNCH-B.VCK '^50 

TROUSERS *S3 

STOUT M-VN'S TROUSERS 254 

PE<i-TOP TROUSERS «56 

TROUSERS WITH L.VRGE LEGS 258 

SPRlNti-BOTTOM TROISERS 260 

lUtW TO .M.VMPULATE A PAIR OF TROU- 
SERS FOR H.VCK HOW 260 

BROAD AND N.VRROW FALLS 262 

TROUSERS FOR BOW-LEGGED MEN 364 

RIDING BREEHES 266 

RIDINti BREECHES WITHOUT EXTEN- 
SIONS 268 

CO.VCH.M.VN'S BREECH ES 370 

K.NICKEKBOCKERS 272 

GOLFING BREECHES 274 

STR.VIGHT FRONT SACK FOR A BOY 

6 YE.VRS OF AGE 276 

DOUBLE-BREASTED S.VCK FOR A BOY. 

13 YEARS (Increased 3 sizes) 378 

SINGLE-BREASTED OVERCOAT FOR A 

BOY 10 YEARS 380 

DOUBLE-BREASTED BOX OVERCOAT FOR 

A BOY 16 YEARS 282 

BOY'S SLEEVES AND TROUSERS . . 284 

NORFOLK COAT 286 

NORFOLK CO.VT. Continued 288 

T.VBLE OF PROPORTIONS, FOR SHORT 

JIEASURES BY BRE.VSTS & HEKiHTS 390 
TABLE OF PROPORTIONS FROM NOR- 
MALS TO STOUTS 291 

T.VBLE OF PROPORTIONS FROM STOUTS 

TO CORPULENTS 292 

A FEW REMARKS ABOUT GARMENT 

JI.YKING 293 

REMARKS ON COAT .M.VKING. Continued 394 
REMARKS ON COAT .MAKING, Continued 295 



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Ill iiiiiiiiiiiiin II II 



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